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Old 02-05-2007 | 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 06MonteSS
Hey BADD... thanks for the write-up on the motor mount mod... I just did it!! Piece of cake!! it was easier than putting in my CAI setup... LOL

I took it out only for a short blast down the road (wife is working late tonight, so I'm with the kids) - but I have to say it's DEFINITELY an improvement! It feels a LOT more solid with that switched around... no monkeying around, you gas it and it goes... pulls even harder on take-off and still harder romping on it from a roll.

At first it made me nervous - dealing with engine mounts - but it was all good, nice and easy... it's stuff like the rockers and springs I wouldn't/couldn't do myself... anyway, I don't know what those 2 motor mount bolts are supposed to be torqued at when tight, but I can tell you that the service guys probably wouldn't be able to get them off now... LOL I made sure those suckers were TIGHT when I put it back together - don't want that coming loose or off when driving! LOL

Thanks again man!! Awesome...
I did this as well while i was draining the oil for my oil change. While i'll agree that it was easier than my K&N install, it didn't want to move very easily. I only had White Lithium grease handy, so i used that, but it still wouldn't budge. I needed to loosen the bolts that hold the front mount to the frame to get it to turn enough.

...which reminds me! I need to tighten those down! I only drove a mile back home (from my 'rents garage) but i'm glad i remembered before the wife took this out on the highway! It felt pretty good, by the way.

What does this do, actually? I'm assuming it's no longer allowing the engine to buck as much, putting more "wasted" power straight into the transmission?
Old 02-05-2007 | 01:01 PM
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mine was a little stubborn at first - 3 sides wanted to turn, but not the top of the rubber mount - that was gripping pretty good - so I had to flex the top of it down and shoot some more WD-40 on the top of it - then that sucker spun right over.

yeah, it doesn't allow the motor to move as much - no hesitation/wasted energy while it flexes/moves in the mounts - it just goes straight to the tranny instead...
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Old 02-05-2007 | 02:04 PM
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Yeah, the top was pretty stubborn until i loosened the frame bolts.

Would there be any benefit (now) to upgrade to poly mounts?
Old 02-05-2007 | 02:52 PM
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i did the motor mount dealy, cranked the bolt back down on it, and just torqued it over inside the housing. tried moving it torwards the front of the car, no luck, so i just started crankin on it towards the motor. finally got it after 20 mins if fighting with it.
Old 02-05-2007 | 03:13 PM
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Lol this is like many things in life... IT NEEDS LUBE! bwhahahaah Your lucky you didnt tear the mount reefing on it for close to a half hour... I juiced the hell out of it and 10 sec later it was flipped.
Old 02-05-2007 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by BADDLS1SS
Lol this is like many things in life... IT NEEDS LUBE! bwhahahaah Your lucky you didnt tear the mount reefing on it for close to a half hour... I juiced the hell out of it and 10 sec later it was flipped.

yea, it's not ****, so i wasn't that gentle


i hosed to down with wd40 {half a can}
let it sit for about 20 mins, got it done
Old 02-05-2007 | 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BADDLS1SS
Here is a quick vid from this morning with a 50-100 roll on getting on to the highway this morning. Just a guage shot of the run.

The roads are wet so anything slower and it just spins. But this is up hill BTW!!!! It really start moving once above 4500!! You can hear the car pretty good and it only takes 7 seconds to gain 50 mph at speed, that takes some ponies.

I have not had an oppertunity to tune it yet and get the shift points to 6500 as the roads are **** lol

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...66736499991360
This vid is inspiration for me to do the rockers and springs ... just too damn cold right now.

Like the feeling of the flipped motor mount - gets rid of that disconnected / unresponsive feeling the motor had before.

Thanks for the pics.
Old 02-06-2007 | 07:53 AM
  #48  
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So, should be getting a fairly decent tax return along with some other money incoming.

I have on my list:
1.8 HS rockers
pushrods
springs
shift kit
transmission cooler (i figure, if i am already there, why not?)
Inferno hood (i always did like the hoods on my 3rd gen f-bodies) - supposedly it works with my CAI
downpipe with hi-flow cat
already ordered the magnaflow cat back (who knows when it will get here though).
HPTuner

So, what else should do? Cam? (I wait to follow in the footsteps of giants )
Old 02-07-2007 | 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by BuffaloSS
Yeah, the top was pretty stubborn until i loosened the frame bolts.

Would there be any benefit (now) to upgrade to poly mounts?
No, not on this mount. You need the rubber to dampen the engine vibration.

It would be like using a chain on a race car, and you would eventually bust the front radiator support clean off!
Old 02-07-2007 | 03:53 AM
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yea dont take it out to rotate it... not fun to put back in. haha i almost lost an eye
Old 02-07-2007 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Kazmaniac
No, not on this mount. You need the rubber to dampen the engine vibration.

It would be like using a chain on a race car, and you would eventually bust the front radiator support clean off!
Really? Hmmmm...guess i'll have a poly mount for sale soon. Didn't realize ours were so weak. What did all of the 10s W-bodies use? Upgraded mounts and supports? And IIRC, they have TWO mounts that the engine is yanking on.
Old 02-07-2007 | 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by happygounlucky86
yea dont take it out to rotate it... not fun to put back in. haha i almost lost an eye
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Old 02-07-2007 | 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by BuffaloSS
Really? Hmmmm...guess i'll have a poly mount for sale soon. Didn't realize ours were so weak. What did all of the 10s W-bodies use? Upgraded mounts and supports? And IIRC, they have TWO mounts that the engine is yanking on.
If you have them, try them out I guess ... just thinking that if momma didn't like the loud exhaust, she may not like the solid engine mount!

(At a light my Z will shake the Hurst pretty good, it's a guy thing)

The 10 second guys do everything they can to get every last tenth out of a car, sacrificing driveability and reliability. You play / you pay thought process.

I don't have a 10 second car, and can't find the rule book, but thinking they need a cage (reinforcing) at my track. They allow one break out pass, you get the warning when you pick up your slip, then bannned until you comply.

Two mounts will keep everything "square" as well as distribute the torque over a wider area. One (at the extreme) will "twist" the rad support. Stock chassis, how many times ... I dunno. Maybe some can vouch for them?
Old 02-07-2007 | 10:34 AM
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Yeah, I just bought one yesterday from ZZP. Ah, we'll see what happens. I guess 10s cars were a bad example...not many true daily-driver 10s cars out there.

Anyway...i got your point. Thanks Kaz.
Old 02-26-2007 | 11:04 AM
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BADDLS1SS. I had a few questions about your rocker install. I have an 06 GXP and I have installed a Vector Tune in the PCM. My shift points are at 6200 RPM's. I am going to install the 1.8 rockers. Would it be necessary to install the springs as well? I will definitely intall the stronger push rods. Any other suggestion? Also, where did you buy your rocker arms? I want to make sure I get the correct ones so that I have proper clearances. Thanks.
Old 02-26-2007 | 11:28 AM
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i'm not him..

it's not necessary to do springs, but if you wanna go any higher than maybe 5800, do the springs. hell your stock ones start running into valve float, definately by 6k. right now, I doubt that 6200 is helping you any extra.

any cromoly pushrods will help.

I'd recommend comp 7.400's for pushrods, and GM Beehive "Yellow" LS6/LS2 springs or Comp Beehive "918" valve springs. the GM yellow are good to .575" and the comp's to .600"
Old 02-26-2007 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by La06GXP
BADDLS1SS. I had a few questions about your rocker install. I have an 06 GXP and I have installed a Vector Tune in the PCM. My shift points are at 6200 RPM's. I am going to install the 1.8 rockers. Would it be necessary to install the springs as well? I will definitely intall the stronger push rods. Any other suggestion? Also, where did you buy your rocker arms? I want to make sure I get the correct ones so that I have proper clearances. Thanks.

iv'e got the same rockers as he does. i got them from summit
harland sharps for a 5.3/325 gen 3 motor.

springs are fine. my rev limiter is set at 6088. so 6k, no float. i can post the part number when i get home, or you can search either his threads or mine for the part number
Old 02-26-2007 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Area47
springs are fine. my rev limiter is set at 6088. so 6k, no float.
Maybe, maybe not. A valve can easily be out of control for more than a few hundred RPM before it is felt by the SOTP method.

If you have a good dyno graph showing smooth power up at the 6000 mark and are not getting any knock up there, then that would support your assertion that your springs are good (so far) at that RPM.

It can be very difficult to figure out if springs are a problem until you swap them out with a better set and see if there is an improvement.
Old 02-26-2007 | 03:52 PM
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I don't remember for shure but I think stock these ls-4's shift from1-2 at pprox. 6000, and 2-3 at 5300. Mine now shifts 1-2 and 2-3 at just above 6000, not quite 6100. I have no signs of valve float.
Old 02-26-2007 | 04:00 PM
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Mine would start to float about 6200 with the stock springs bad enough to hesitate and misfire after the rockers.

I had changed over to the 918 springs and the push rods and was able to extend my shift point for the 1-2 all the way to 6500. I did notice a pretty large gain in torque under the curve after doing the springs, so obviously the stock springs were not working so hot after the rockers alone.

You can do one stop shopping through www.ls1speed.com which is a sponsor, they have the rockres, springs and 7.4" pushrods. They are also about 10$ cheaper on everything vs going to summit.


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