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Spring/Rocker/Push rod install pics

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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 07:44 PM
  #61  
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Well, I think I will change the springs also when I go with the 1.8 rockers just to make sure in case I have any valve float67y. It can't hurt and will maximize the gains of the higher ratio rockers. I would appreciate it if some one could check me on the parts that I need. Here is my list (from the Speed Inc website):

CC26918 Ovate Wire Spring Set
PAT8452 Harland Sharp LS1 Non-Adjustable 1.8 Rocker Arms
CC7955-16 Chrome Moly Pushrods 7.400 (Stock Length)

Besides the usual tools, I will also need a spring compressor. I am thinking of getting the Crane valve spring tool that you used BADDLS1SS. I guess I will also need the air hose/tool to hold the valves up. Is there anything else that I would need? Thanks to everyone for the help.
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 08:21 PM
  #62  
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Assuming the retainer is reused from the stock springs and they want you to reuse the stock keepers, I would go ahead and get some extra keepers, there is always one that jumps and hides somewhere in the garage. An extending antenna-type magnet will save you aggravation beyond belief on this job when it comes to removing (and retrieving) the keepers.

Is there actually a problem with the stock pushrods? Flexing, or is it just one of those ugrades that you might as well do as long as you have done 98% of the work anyway?
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Old Feb 26, 2007 | 09:15 PM
  #63  
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Well, with the increased ratio and stronger springs, the rods are a good idea to avoid any valve train problems.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 10:06 AM
  #64  
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you don't have to do springs if you don't want too. it pulls just fine to 6100, no signs of float or anything. in my case, id like to do springs and pushrods for later mods. but if you're not wanting to do a cam, you don't need to do them.
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Old Feb 27, 2007 | 10:25 AM
  #65  
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I think I will do the springs just in case of future mods. But do I have the correct parts numbers?
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 04:51 PM
  #66  
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Okay. This question is for BADDLS1SS or Area47. I am about to make a decision as to getting the rockers for my 06 GXP. In your estimations, how much of an increase in HP and torque did you get from the rockers? Also, if you did get a noticable increase in power, was this before you changed your shift points to 6500 BADDLS1SS? Currently, I have a Vector Tune which does have increased shift points to 6100-6200 rpms. The other thing is I am trying to decide if I really need the springs and the stronger push rods. I know that If I have any valve float that I would need the springs and the stronger rods. I guess I am trying to convince myself to get the rockers, springs, and rods. Is there any possible negatives to going with this setup? Thanks for your help and info.
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 05:49 PM
  #67  
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Yella Terra's rocker arms are for sale at New Era Performance for just about as much as Harland Sharp's if anyone cares.
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 10:15 PM
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Is there an advantage of the Yella Terra's over the Harland-Sharps?
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 08:29 AM
  #69  
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Can someone provide me with the part number for the GM yellow beehive ls6 valve springs? Thanks.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 10:02 AM
  #70  
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i gained 13 whp. yella terra's have some more weight to them vs the HS.

on the whp deal, my car was silly lean when i dynoed, there is more power. but i will never know just how much is in there.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Area47
i gained 13 whp. yella terra's have some more weight to them vs the HS.

on the whp deal, my car was silly lean when i dynoed, there is more power. but i will never know just how much is in there.
Do you think the new style Yella's are still heavier then HS? I've heard the opposite. Yella Terra claims there new style rocker arm is the lightest on the market. I guess it really comes down to preference between the two of them though. I've heard some negatives and mostly positives on both of them. I did order the Yella's since they were on sale this month for about the same price as Harland.

Last edited by SDfbody; Mar 5, 2007 at 08:53 PM.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 08:52 AM
  #72  
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I want to know also
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 09:12 AM
  #73  
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The Crane's are a bitch to setup if you don't have knowledge on doing them. But once you get them right they are awesome. The kit I got had the rockers, pushrods, studs and guideplates. I didn't change my springs because I don't plan on pushing my motor passed 6050rpm shifts.
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Old Jun 29, 2007 | 04:53 PM
  #74  
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put ur money towards other things besides these unless u are gonna cam it. i run 13.6s and i havent touched my valvetrain.
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Old Jun 30, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #75  
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If your car is starting to get some miles on it and you are going to do the rockers also do the springs and rods. At first I only installed the rockers. I drive my 06 GXP a lot and so have put quite a bit of miles on it (approximately 54,000). I was starting to get valve float and I think it was because the springs with that many miles could not cope with the increased lift. So I installed the 918 springs and the CompCams rods and have not had problems since.
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Old Jul 6, 2007 | 09:49 PM
  #76  
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Does anyone know if there is a good cam out there for us or should we just go for the rocker arms as a nice little touch to the power the V8 has?
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Old May 22, 2008 | 11:17 AM
  #77  
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How would the heavy springs and high ratio rockers affect the stock DOD lifters? The lifters seem like a "weak point" in the LS4?
I would LOVE to have a 6500 shift point in my LS4 Fiero swap but don't want to kill and replace lifters every year.
Does anyone have actual dyno charts with springs/lifters in an LS4 spinning up to 6500+ rpm?
Will the stock tranny survive behind a 6500rpm LS4?
The engine is out of the car now, so mods will be easier to do, BUT the swap will need to pass an emissions inspection to registered. So will the springs and rockers effect emissions? I know the ECM reprogramming could have some emissions side affects depending on what is done.
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