Long story short is im about ready to drive this car into a lake, but i probably couldnt get it to start to do so anyway.

Ever since i got my S10 i havent been driving the car much... it would sit for a week at a time or so. I go to fire it up and the thing is deader than all hell... hmmm ok? fine i left the radar detector on and my XM head unit... Charge it up, drive it... all is fine. I now shut that stuff off everytime and let it sit again... Dead as a **** again. At this point im pretty torqued... So i jump start the **** sucker, drive it sat night... no issues. Let the car sit till this morning... 48 hours... dead again! All i know is i just about put my fist through the side glass.

Whatever it is with this battery or something its getting worse with every run down. I dont know what changed? Nothing extra is on that i can tell anyway...

Has anyone had this? was it for sure the infamous shitty GM batteries as the end result?

 

Take it back to the dealer and have them replace the battery under warranty, then I would take it out, put it on ebay and buy an Optima Batter, Red top.

 

Yeah its gotta appt for tommorow... Cant wait to get the "oh we cant find anything wrong" or the infamous "something was left on " line... Next time it happens roadside assitance can come pick it up from my garage then with its dead *** battery! Proof positive right there.

 

I bought this battery http://www.odysseybatteries.com/batt...1200series.htm supposed to be made better then Optima. And its 20 pounds lighter then the stock battery, I didn't even waste my time going to the dealer I just bought a new one and tossed out the crappy *** Delco they had in my car.

 

Wonder if there is anything wrong with mine. When i got my car i put some woofers in it and a redtop in the trunk wired to the engine compartment battery

 

That's exactly what I got. Last month, my car sat for about 5 days, with nothing on, and when I got in the car, it BARELY started. I was actually taking it to the dealer for something else, so when I get there, I tell them about it. I also tell them that I know about a problem with some of the batteries having bad cells and what not. Well, I come to pick it up, and sure enough, "We couldn't duplicate it."

Well, since then, I haven't had it sit for that long, but when it has sat for a couple of days, it's a little harder to start. Since it hasn't left me stranded, I haven't really pursued it, but I'm sure I need a new battery.

Maybe I'll just do what some people are saying and buy a much better battery. I am adding an amp here ina month or two. How much should I expect to spend on a good one? Anyone..........?????

 

There's another thread on this....but anyway, the dealer is supposed to take the AC Delco (crap) battery out and throw some new battery in (higher output?). I know someone who did this in MCSS and he still has problems. I've had 2 dead in garage batteries, and both times, roadside assistance came. When I took it by the stealership, they said "Uhh...there's nothin' wrong with your battery man, must of left something on..." I didn't get a replacement, and a new one was not under "warranty." I'm beginning to think its an alternator problem more than a battery problem. Anyone's ignition sound heavy and slow(thud-like when turning the engine over)? My friend's Ls1 cranks over fine, the neighbor's Ls2 GTO starts well, a the Z06 vette around the corner runs/starts like a champ.

The Optima red top is looking like the better option...

 

Well if they tell you that you left something on then you tell them they don't know the newer chevy vechicles because there is protection that turns off everything "including lights" after 10 minutes. Try it leave your lights on in the car come back and they will be off its called Residual auxilary power blah blah. They CANNOT use that as a excuse. educate them . The only time you will have a drain is if you've hooked up something aftermarket that is drawing current and wasn't installed correctly to shut off with the vechicle.

 

yeah...went through a very similar problem. In my case it was an amplifier issue and my amps would be left in the on position and couldn't be turned off...some bad design with the cars electronics. No matter what circuit I tied the amps remote wire into, nothing would shut them off. Not of course until I installed an inline switch. Problem fixed, but back to the main question...I had several drain down cycles and once that happens the battery is junk. I replaced mine with a factory Delco battery and have had "no" problems since then. Unfortunately I think that if there is any draw what so ever it'll run the battery down. Although leaving on the XM isn't going to matter one way or the other. It's just a myth.

 

Not to sound dumb, but is sounds like you have a bad battery. I can't believe the dealer would not replace it. I've heard of dealeships making up a code for the battery to enable them to replace it under warranty, esp in situations like yours.

 

A little fyi for all. It also brings up a point of the modules in the vehicle not going into sleep mode for one reason or another, which can cause a dead battery.

Document ID# 1868070
2006 Chevrolet Monte Carlo


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Subject: Diagnostic Information on Battery Draw No Start - Body Control Module, BCM Power Timer #06-06-03-009 - (10/19/2006)



Models: 2006-2007 Buick Lucerne

2006-2007 Cadillac DTS

2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo

2007 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT, SRX

2007 Chevrolet Avalanche, Equinox, Tahoe, Silverado, Suburban

2007 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL, Denali, Denali XL

2007 Pontiac Torrent




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When performing normal diagnosis on a battery that has gone dead overnight, a technician may notice that the vehicle has approximately 4.1 amp draw on the system. The draw may be steady or may drop down to a low milliamp reading for 1-2 seconds and then rise back up to the 4.1 amp range. If this amp draw condition is observed, check for aftermarket accessories or an improperly installed GM accessory that is wired into circuit 6815 (orange wire) for courtesy lamps. Anytime aftermarket accessories are installed into the courtesy lamp circuit, it can cause the inadvertent power timer in the body control module (BCM) to keep resetting. The BCM will remain awake and cause the draw of approximately 4.1 amps.

When servicing a vehicle with this concern, back out pin 1 of the connector 2 at the BCM and see if the draw goes away. If the draw goes away, check for an aftermarket accessory (LoJack, non-factory DVD system, alarm, etc.) that is improperly installed in circuit 6815.



GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


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Document ID# 1868070
2006 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

 

I haven't seen this one yet.
Document ID# 1865792
2006 Chevrolet Monte Carlo


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Subject: Intermittent No Crank Starter Clicks Or Vehicle Starts To Crank Then Stops Cranking - keywords 3.5 3.9 5.3 crank driveability DTC electrical engine IMS intermittent internal LS4 LZ4 LZ8 LZ9 LZE mode #PIC4255 - (10/06/2006)



Models: 2006-2007 Chevrolet Impala and Monte Carlo




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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
Intermittent No Crank, Starter Clicks, or Vehicle Starts to Crank Then Stops Cranking. Typically there are no DTCs.

Recommendation/Instructions:
The Engine Control Module (ECM) has a separate park / neutral input from the internal mode switch (IMS) on circuit 1786. When the vehicle is in park or neutral, circuit 1786 is pulled low.

Circuit 1786 is routed through the 20 way transmission connector. If there is an intermittent open in circuit 1786, the ECM will not enable the starter relay or if the vehicle is already cranking, the relay will be disabled.

Inspect the 20-way transmission connector for being fully seated. There have been some cases where the connector was not fully seated causing an intermittent open in circuit 1786.

Note:: The schematic for the starter is 1657947 and the schematic for the IMS is 1658032.

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.



GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION


© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Document ID# 1865792
2006 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

 

This subject has been beaten to death by now. I've gone through this! I had a hell of a hard time at the dealer with it. Check the threads out....and for God sakes....get that battery changed under warranty ASAP! Not cool having a GM product leaving you stranded like that.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/ls4-performance/670199-06-impala-still-occasionally-not-starting.html

 

Yeah gotta new batt under warranty. Seems to be OK so far. Polished up the tune a little bit and the car feels better than ever now lol I am again happy with it.

I will try an amp clamp on the + cable tonight for my own reference and see if the BCM is indeed shutting down.

 

got my battery replaced under warranty it started draining my optima and killing my whole car even with 2 batterys. Got the ACdelco 720CCA replacement much better then the old 620

 

Since I barely drive my 07, it sits for afew weeks without starting, but it would start up. Well last week, I drove it to the store. A couple days later I wanted to go for a spin, and well...it didn't start. I looked at that AC delco waste of a battery under the hood and replaced it with an optima red top. Car only had 897 miles an the battery was dead. I can let my 2000 SS sit for 2 weeks and it will start right up. It has a red top optima in it.

 

BACK FROM THE DEAD!!!!!1111!11oneone!!!

 

for those of you who have replaced the battery, what battery did you use, what size battery is in the Impala SS.

My wife's car has about 42K miles and the battery has died twice since xmas.

We jumped it the first time, the other time we were in a hurry and drove another car. It sat over night, and it started up this afternoon, but I think I am going to get a new battery anyway.

 

B/c it was covered, they gave me the 720cca ACDelco. Others shout from the mountaintops about the Optima Red Top....from what i hear it's the best bang for the buck.

 

Thanks,

Is the 720cca ACDelco the battery that comes in the other Impala models?