HP tuners help
#21
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sherwood Park, AB
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, I guess I did go a bit overboard on the acronyms.
PID means Parameter Identification Data, which is not really too informative - it just means the particular engine data parameter being logged, ie RPM, ECT(engine coolant temp)....You can only log so many of them at once, the more items you log, the lower the resolution of the log
PID means Parameter Identification Data, which is not really too informative - it just means the particular engine data parameter being logged, ie RPM, ECT(engine coolant temp)....You can only log so many of them at once, the more items you log, the lower the resolution of the log
#23
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sherwood Park, AB
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The colder the air you can get into the engine the better. If you run a cooler thermostat, you will get a slightly cooler and denser air charge at idle and part throttle - at WOT there is very little heating of the intake air, but every little bit helps.
I think the stock thermostat is 90*C (195*F). If it gets cold where you live, you probably don't want to drop below a 80*C (180*F) thermostat to maintain comfort in the vehicle. It looks like it will be a bit of a pain to change the thermostat - make sure the exhaust manifold is cool when you do the change or you'll be peeling your skin off it.
The following example is a bit extreme, but I ran some logs a a few weeks ago when it was -20*C here, measured cylinder air density increased by 12% over summer temperatures (.76g/cyl vs .68g/cyl in the summer). If I could only get traction on those cold icy roads, it would be nice to see the difference in 0-100kmh times compared to last summer.
I think the stock thermostat is 90*C (195*F). If it gets cold where you live, you probably don't want to drop below a 80*C (180*F) thermostat to maintain comfort in the vehicle. It looks like it will be a bit of a pain to change the thermostat - make sure the exhaust manifold is cool when you do the change or you'll be peeling your skin off it.
The following example is a bit extreme, but I ran some logs a a few weeks ago when it was -20*C here, measured cylinder air density increased by 12% over summer temperatures (.76g/cyl vs .68g/cyl in the summer). If I could only get traction on those cold icy roads, it would be nice to see the difference in 0-100kmh times compared to last summer.
#24
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: 805-818
Posts: 3,561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 160* T-stat out of a LS2 goat but I live in sunny California so temperature really doesn't affect me. It's a good upgrade as far as releasing a cooler air charge, but if you live somewhere I cold I would advise against it.
#26
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Glenolden, PA
Posts: 99
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am in Philly, it gets cold but not unbearable, rarely if ever do we see single digits on the thermometer so I think I may go with the 160 when the time comes.
#30
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: 805-818
Posts: 3,561
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not that hard to learn. It would be wise to get some EFI tuning books and guides that are listed on the HPT site. Or you could have someone who is knowledgeable with tuning sit down and help you understand the program and its basic architecture. Start with small values at first, then its easier to revert back to s stockish tune. Once you get the hang and swing of things, you will be tunin' up a storm!