rocker arms
04-13-2008, 09:38 PM
#2
I have the Crane 1.8 kit and they do make a difference. I say a good 8-12 hp and the power band pulls more if you have supporting mods.
http://www.maxchevy.com/tech/2007/ii_7-rocker-2.html
http://www.maxchevy.com/tech/2007/ii_7-rocker-2.html
04-13-2008, 10:50 PM
#3
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even with the stock tune, my Crane Quick Lift rockers let me walk 2 other LS4 cars pretty handily. I am pleased with them. (and my Impy is fully loaded and more than a little heavier than the two Monte SS cars that I pulled on.)
04-14-2008, 08:35 AM
#4
(and my Impy is fully loaded and more than a little heavier than the two Monte SS cars that I pulled on.)
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04-16-2008, 07:20 AM
#9
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I think the best rockers are a matter of opinion. I have heard horror stories with both the Crane and Harland Sharp ones this is why I went with the Yella Terra's. Great product and no fussing with valve lash and you also do not have to grind down any rockers to fit under the valve cover. Like I said the best ones are only a matter of opinion. Hope this helps.
-Mike
-Mike
04-16-2008, 03:59 PM
#10
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No horror stories really with the Crane's (once you throw out the worthless installation directions and install them just like a regular small block). The geometry of them is fairly interesting. They actually sorta dog-leg (hard to explain, you can find diagrams on the web) and come off the cam at a 1.9 lift instead of the 1.8 ratio of the others, just pulling in more charge early (the most critical time of the filling process) and decrease to a 1.8 ratio at around 0.300 lift IIRC and maintain that 1.8 through the rest of the spin until they set down (Again at the 1.9 ratio), faster ramp speed up (and further open), faster ramp speed down (quicker setting down also means more torque with trapping the charge) They should be worth an additional 5ish horses over the HS or YT's. If the slightly more involved install and extra cash are worth those horses to you, then they are better.
04-17-2008, 12:09 AM
#11
No horror stories really with the Crane's (once you throw out the worthless installation directions and install them just like a regular small block). The geometry of them is fairly interesting. They actually sorta dog-leg (hard to explain, you can find diagrams on the web) and come off the cam at a 1.9 lift instead of the 1.8 ratio of the others, just pulling in more charge early (the most critical time of the filling process) and decrease to a 1.8 ratio at around 0.300 lift IIRC and maintain that 1.8 through the rest of the spin until they set down (Again at the 1.9 ratio), faster ramp speed up (and further open), faster ramp speed down (quicker setting down also means more torque with trapping the charge) They should be worth an additional 5ish horses over the HS or YT's. If the slightly more involved install and extra cash are worth those horses to you, then they are better.
04-18-2008, 07:14 PM
#14
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No horror stories really with the Crane's (once you throw out the worthless installation directions and install them just like a regular small block). The geometry of them is fairly interesting. They actually sorta dog-leg (hard to explain, you can find diagrams on the web) and come off the cam at a 1.9 lift instead of the 1.8 ratio of the others, just pulling in more charge early (the most critical time of the filling process) and decrease to a 1.8 ratio at around 0.300 lift IIRC and maintain that 1.8 through the rest of the spin until they set down (Again at the 1.9 ratio), faster ramp speed up (and further open), faster ramp speed down (quicker setting down also means more torque with trapping the charge) They should be worth an additional 5ish horses over the HS or YT's. If the slightly more involved install and extra cash are worth those horses to you, then they are better.
04-18-2008, 09:13 PM
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Sorry, but it is not a good method, nor is it necessary (per a phone call to Crane during my install). The directions are written so that you do not need to keep track of which pushrods are on the base. It is not hard to find when number one exhaust is off the lobe and then rotate and add preload in sequence after zero lash is found. I had trouble with the lifters bleeding down with their goofy system. Once I did it the normal way, was a walk in the park.
04-18-2008, 10:07 PM
#18
Sorry, but it is not a good method, nor is it necessary (per a phone call to Crane during my install). The directions are written so that you do not need to keep track of which pushrods are on the base. It is not hard to find when number one exhaust is off the lobe and then rotate and add preload in sequence after zero lash is found. I had trouble with the lifters bleeding down with their goofy system. Once I did it the normal way, was a walk in the park.
