Need a new passenger side everything!
05-28-2008, 06:32 AM
#21
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05-28-2008, 10:26 AM
#22
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the rear bumper is fixable all day long gieco wont replace that , its fixable
dont push the shop if its not done is 2 weeks, your in a rental let them fix the car
if its one thing i hate its a time line, and i personaly take my time and fix the car one time no come backs, something like this would take me about 15-17 days to fix
so enjoy the rental
dont push the shop if its not done is 2 weeks, your in a rental let them fix the car
if its one thing i hate its a time line, and i personaly take my time and fix the car one time no come backs, something like this would take me about 15-17 days to fix
so enjoy the rental
I agree. As long as I'm not in an Impala LS, I'll be OK with it if it takes up to 3 weeks. Hoping for a new Accord or Camry (commence bashing)
but will miss my Nav/XM unit.Regarding the bumper, it is torn about 4 inches long from the upper-front corner and the attachment holes are torn, too. They better not try to fix that ****...
05-28-2008, 01:49 PM
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Haven't gotten an official repair est., but it's beyond $5k...close to $6k, before confirming prices. Includes replacing both wheels, fender, front door, reskinning rear door, replacing lower rocker & rear bumper, and doing something to the quarterpanel. He's leaning towards replacement but is considering repair. Hood will be painted/blended as well. All repairs are guaranteed for life, so if they just repair the quarter, I might be OK with that. Preliminary timeline is 11 days...
Meanwhile, I'm driving an '08 Maxima SE, with the 3.5L & tapshift. First impressions are "This is a damn nice car." Got a lot of pep in it, and the manumatic tranny is fun too. My car feels like a fat pig in comparison, even with the stock 18's on it. Seats are great, but I can see them being uncomfortable for anyone 250lbs or bigger. I "fluctuate" between 210 & 220, and fit snuggly between the side bolsters. I might just "borrow" the seats and install them in my car somehow.
Meanwhile, I'm driving an '08 Maxima SE, with the 3.5L & tapshift. First impressions are "This is a damn nice car." Got a lot of pep in it, and the manumatic tranny is fun too. My car feels like a fat pig in comparison, even with the stock 18's on it. Seats are great, but I can see them being uncomfortable for anyone 250lbs or bigger. I "fluctuate" between 210 & 220, and fit snuggly between the side bolsters. I might just "borrow" the seats and install them in my car somehow.
05-28-2008, 03:13 PM
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The $30/day wasn't going to cover another "full size" car (Imp, Camry, Accord), which were about $36 with tax. The Maxima is a "Premium" sedan and $40/day...so $10 out of pocket.
05-29-2008, 05:28 AM
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Damn you got a nice rental. When my car was t-boned by a semi it took about 3 months to fix and they put me in a Ford Taurus. Never driven a bigger POS in my life. I ended up taking it back and getting a Ford F-150. I think I would rather take the bus than drive a Taurus.
05-29-2008, 08:43 AM
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After driving it both in the city and on the highway, and using the manumatic tranny, this is a great car, imo. Pushed it to 100 yesterday and you couldn't hear a sound from the outside...unlike my car, which sounds like you left a pair of windows open 
Anyway, they're aiming at a June 11th return, so I figure the 15th. We'll see what happens...
Anyway, they're aiming at a June 11th return, so I figure the 15th. We'll see what happens...
05-31-2008, 08:51 AM
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well to me the 1/4 is fixable all day long but the body man might be cring like a bitch to replace it, plastic repair is and when done correctly will last the life time of a car, there is nothing wrong with ficing a bumper
i`ve been doing it for now over 15 yrs and never had i have a car come back with my repair failing, actually just recently i fixed a front end where i fixed the bumper last time and it held up to the impact, they dont call me the plastic man for nothing
the only plastic that can not be fixed is ABS PC those are the only 2 that cant be fixed, and why would the shop blend black??? is it damaged or something, no need for that, lol, i really never had a problem with gieco adjusters they are real cool about giving us what we want to fix the car
when its done just look for alignment of the door skins, look iniside the door and look and the skin to see hammer marks, look at the paint for any scratches that are shrinking down, that means they rushed the product, not enough dry time
look inside the 1/4 to see hammer marks or burnt areas from the stud gun, small gun that spot welds nails so we can pull metal, paint lines, overspray,
good luck
i`ve been doing it for now over 15 yrs and never had i have a car come back with my repair failing, actually just recently i fixed a front end where i fixed the bumper last time and it held up to the impact, they dont call me the plastic man for nothing
the only plastic that can not be fixed is ABS PC those are the only 2 that cant be fixed, and why would the shop blend black??? is it damaged or something, no need for that, lol, i really never had a problem with gieco adjusters they are real cool about giving us what we want to fix the car
when its done just look for alignment of the door skins, look iniside the door and look and the skin to see hammer marks, look at the paint for any scratches that are shrinking down, that means they rushed the product, not enough dry time
look inside the 1/4 to see hammer marks or burnt areas from the stud gun, small gun that spot welds nails so we can pull metal, paint lines, overspray,
good luck
05-31-2008, 11:12 AM
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Thanks for the tips. Regarding the blending of the paint on the hood...he said "even though it's basic GM black, we're going to blend the hood." Why? IDK...but I'll take all the paint work I can get.
Also, where on the door skin would I be looking for hammer marks? How does it attach?
And what would shrinking scratches look like?
Thx again.
Also, where on the door skin would I be looking for hammer marks? How does it attach?
And what would shrinking scratches look like?
Thx again.
05-31-2008, 12:33 PM
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Well at least you got everything in the works now, should look good when you get it back. I agree you did get a nice rental, those cars are starting to grow on me, very nice for the money.
05-31-2008, 09:57 PM
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well a skin is attached in allot of ways
1. panle bond
2. spot welds
3. the skin is hammered over the frame
when we remove a skin we grind off the outer edge of the skin, spot welds, and i use my torch to heat up the panle bond, and the pillar foam across the i-beam, pop!! skin comes right off,
so look inside where it is hammered over the door frame, there is nothing wrong with replacing a skin, when done correctly it will last the life of the car, when done wrong,, some guys dont put the pillar foam back on the i beam, or use panle bond, which equals noise/rust
dude again bumper repair is not a bad thing, the tech knows his plastic and knows the correct way to repair plastic there is no worries
1. panle bond
2. spot welds
3. the skin is hammered over the frame
when we remove a skin we grind off the outer edge of the skin, spot welds, and i use my torch to heat up the panle bond, and the pillar foam across the i-beam, pop!! skin comes right off,
so look inside where it is hammered over the door frame, there is nothing wrong with replacing a skin, when done correctly it will last the life of the car, when done wrong,, some guys dont put the pillar foam back on the i beam, or use panle bond, which equals noise/rust
dude again bumper repair is not a bad thing, the tech knows his plastic and knows the correct way to repair plastic there is no worries
06-06-2008, 11:32 AM
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No time for photos or anything, but she looks great! Pretty much what was mentioned in the beginning. Two new (recon) wheels (still under the Lifetime warranty...so if they peel like the last set of recond wheels I got from the dealer, they'll cover it), new fender, front door, rear door skin, and rear bumper. They repaired the quarter and it looks like new (just in time for me to have to roll them, huh?).
I'm really happy, thus far, with everything...and I'm happy to have some low-end torque and XM/NAV back
One thing I forgot to ask about is how long to wait before polishing the car. I know some here say wait weeks and/or months before doing anything to it. It appears as if they did it already, b/c the driver side looks better than when I dropped it off...but it could just be that it's MY car and I think it looks better than what I had while she was gone.
I'm really happy, thus far, with everything...and I'm happy to have some low-end torque and XM/NAV back
One thing I forgot to ask about is how long to wait before polishing the car. I know some here say wait weeks and/or months before doing anything to it. It appears as if they did it already, b/c the driver side looks better than when I dropped it off...but it could just be that it's MY car and I think it looks better than what I had while she was gone.
06-06-2008, 11:41 AM
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It depends on the process the body shop uses. I believe it has to do whether the finish is baked or not. When I had my hood repainted I was told to wait 6 weeks before applying any type of wax. The body shop said the paint needed to breathe and dry out to seal properly and if you put wax on it that it could harm the process. I cheated after a couple of weeks and used a detailer spray.
06-06-2008, 02:02 PM
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Followin' me? LOL
The black gets so dusty that I'll defintely need to use detailing spray (when cool & in the shade, of course).
After looking it over, I'm not real happy with the fitment of the bumper. There are ripples/flexing where it meets the fender on both sides. Gonna complain on Monday and see what they want to do about it.
On a side note, I didn't realize that I got to keep the wheels. They're in the trunk. One is badly gouged, but the other just has surface scratches. Might see what it would cost to get that refinished. One of the wheels on the driver side has a (n unrelated) deep, 1" long gouge at the edge (from midas) and I could use the refinished wheel as a replacement for that one.
Anyone need spare OEM wheel?
The black gets so dusty that I'll defintely need to use detailing spray (when cool & in the shade, of course).
After looking it over, I'm not real happy with the fitment of the bumper. There are ripples/flexing where it meets the fender on both sides. Gonna complain on Monday and see what they want to do about it.
On a side note, I didn't realize that I got to keep the wheels. They're in the trunk. One is badly gouged, but the other just has surface scratches. Might see what it would cost to get that refinished. One of the wheels on the driver side has a (n unrelated) deep, 1" long gouge at the edge (from midas) and I could use the refinished wheel as a replacement for that one.
Anyone need spare OEM wheel?
06-07-2008, 01:45 PM
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ppg recomend if the clear is baked at 140 degrees, its cooled down for an hour, it can be waxed with no problems
but on the safe side i would wait at least 30 days, but in the mean time you can wash it, and just use a polish not wax
and to the body man that replaced that 1/4, i should send him a box of tampons, for being a bitch, that 1/4 was fixable all day long
so now just watch for body work on the door that was skinned, not to many guys out there can skin a door without slapping bondo on, so look for scratches shrinkin back
look on the d-pillar where the cry baby spliced the 1/4
a good door skin will never need bondo on it, most guys out there and just rush through it and **** up the skin end result is bondo on a new skin
so look for that
but on the safe side i would wait at least 30 days, but in the mean time you can wash it, and just use a polish not wax
and to the body man that replaced that 1/4, i should send him a box of tampons, for being a bitch, that 1/4 was fixable all day long
so now just watch for body work on the door that was skinned, not to many guys out there can skin a door without slapping bondo on, so look for scratches shrinkin back
look on the d-pillar where the cry baby spliced the 1/4
a good door skin will never need bondo on it, most guys out there and just rush through it and **** up the skin end result is bondo on a new skin
so look for that
06-07-2008, 03:12 PM
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ppg recomend if the clear is baked at 140 degrees, its cooled down for an hour, it can be waxed with no problems
but on the safe side i would wait at least 30 days, but in the mean time you can wash it, and just use a polish not wax
and to the body man that replaced that 1/4, i should send him a box of tampons, for being a bitch, that 1/4 was fixable all day long
so now just watch for body work on the door that was skinned, not to many guys out there can skin a door without slapping bondo on, so look for scratches shrinkin back
look on the d-pillar where the cry baby spliced the 1/4
a good door skin will never need bondo on it, most guys out there and just rush through it and **** up the skin end result is bondo on a new skin
so look for that
but on the safe side i would wait at least 30 days, but in the mean time you can wash it, and just use a polish not wax
and to the body man that replaced that 1/4, i should send him a box of tampons, for being a bitch, that 1/4 was fixable all day long
so now just watch for body work on the door that was skinned, not to many guys out there can skin a door without slapping bondo on, so look for scratches shrinkin back
look on the d-pillar where the cry baby spliced the 1/4
a good door skin will never need bondo on it, most guys out there and just rush through it and **** up the skin end result is bondo on a new skin
so look for that
06-07-2008, 05:07 PM
#39
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No, they fixed the quarter...see a couple posts above.
Both side doors sound different now...and **** rattles when you hit bumps. As I mentioned, the bumper is not right, either. There are a couple very minor issues with the paint, too...like one or two tiny 1/8 round spots where there is excess paint or something. Not quite a drip, and not really noticeable, but enough to complain about.
And lastly, the wheels look different than the stock wheels. Almost like they're the machined aluminum wheels, lightly-polished, with a coat of clear on them....they just don't shine the same as the "high-polished" and cleared stock wheels. When I go to put the 20s back on, I'll line them up side by side in the sun and make sure it's not the lighting playing tricks on me. The wheels LOOK great...just different. Not an issue today, but when I need to rotate the winter tires, (i think) they won't match.
Both side doors sound different now...and **** rattles when you hit bumps. As I mentioned, the bumper is not right, either. There are a couple very minor issues with the paint, too...like one or two tiny 1/8 round spots where there is excess paint or something. Not quite a drip, and not really noticeable, but enough to complain about.
And lastly, the wheels look different than the stock wheels. Almost like they're the machined aluminum wheels, lightly-polished, with a coat of clear on them....they just don't shine the same as the "high-polished" and cleared stock wheels. When I go to put the 20s back on, I'll line them up side by side in the sun and make sure it's not the lighting playing tricks on me. The wheels LOOK great...just different. Not an issue today, but when I need to rotate the winter tires, (i think) they won't match.
06-07-2008, 06:31 PM
#40
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No, they fixed the quarter...see a couple posts above.
Both side doors sound different now...and **** rattles when you hit bumps. As I mentioned, the bumper is not right, either. There are a couple very minor issues with the paint, too...like one or two tiny 1/8 round spots where there is excess paint or something. Not quite a drip, and not really noticeable, but enough to complain about.
And lastly, the wheels look different than the stock wheels. Almost like they're the machined aluminum wheels, lightly-polished, with a coat of clear on them....they just don't shine the same as the "high-polished" and cleared stock wheels. When I go to put the 20s back on, I'll line them up side by side in the sun and make sure it's not the lighting playing tricks on me. The wheels LOOK great...just different. Not an issue today, but when I need to rotate the winter tires, (i think) they won't match.
Both side doors sound different now...and **** rattles when you hit bumps. As I mentioned, the bumper is not right, either. There are a couple very minor issues with the paint, too...like one or two tiny 1/8 round spots where there is excess paint or something. Not quite a drip, and not really noticeable, but enough to complain about.
And lastly, the wheels look different than the stock wheels. Almost like they're the machined aluminum wheels, lightly-polished, with a coat of clear on them....they just don't shine the same as the "high-polished" and cleared stock wheels. When I go to put the 20s back on, I'll line them up side by side in the sun and make sure it's not the lighting playing tricks on me. The wheels LOOK great...just different. Not an issue today, but when I need to rotate the winter tires, (i think) they won't match.
2 bolts are on the inside of the trunk 1 bolt is under the wheel trim
When i dynomated my trunk i tightened them to much and got a little "ripple effect" i just loosened em abit and fixed it.