I bought this from SDPC last year. It has about 4k miles on it. It may need to be decked a couple thousandths because I can’t get a head gasket to hold on the drivers side. It was leaking out of the coolant drain plug on the driver’s side also, but I replaced the plug, so it should be good there right now. I don’t know for sure that it needs to be decked, but worst case it will need to be. But since I have to pull it anyways, I figured I’d upgrade while its out. I originally bought this for use with my P1SC and stock 6.0L heads, but now that I have an F1 and some AFR 225 heads, I think it is probably time for an upgrade in the displacement department and go to an LSX 427. Here are the specs. All parts were brand new when I purchased them and have 4kish miles on everything.

Fully machined 2004+ LS6 block (note, you will need the short head bolts or studs for this block)

LS6 crank with keyway machined in the snout for ATI or other aftermarket crank pulley

Forged Callies Compstar Rods (6.125”) with ARP 2000 bolts

Forged Mahle 3.903” bore flat top pistons (-4cc valve reliefs) with Mahle plasma molly rings

ARP studs on the bottom end

This setup can give you anywhere from 9.2 to 10.5 CR depending on heads and gasket thickness.

Balanced, blueprinted and documented by SDPC. I do have the build sheet as well. The engine is still in the car right now, but will be coming out soon. I will get updated pictures at that time. If you bought this setup new today, it would cost about $3500. I will take $2400 for it as is. IF it needs to be decked, machining would be around $100. So if you can disassemble and reassemble it yourself for machining, you can save $1000. But like I said, I am not 100% it needs to even be machined. I just talked myself into upgrading while thinking about it all, so my loss is your gain.

 

if i had the money right now it would already be sold...good luck on the sale man...ive been watching your threads on ws6zxr...

 

Thanks man. Its a helluva deal for sure for anyone looking to go forged. This block can be used for FI, N2O, or even just a stout H/C setup just based on what size heads you go with.

 

427 & F1? now it's starting to get out of hand lol. hopefully when I get some more funds saved up ("x" number of years) I can be at 1/2 the horsepower level you are going to be here's a bump for ya, good luck.

 

Thanks man. If this doesn't sell by the time I take it out for inspection and it turns out that it does not need to be machined, I may just keep it. I'm curious if replacing that plug actually did the trick and solved all the leaking problems, but I haven't been able to drive it because my jack handle broke and it is stuck on stands for the moment until I get the jack fixed

 

lol. I'm sure someone around there would be glad to let you borrow their jack handle. heck just go buy another one, they're cheap. that'll be good news if that plug fixed it!

 

Eh, its not so much the handle itself, its the release mechanism when you twist the handle that allows you to lower or raise. The little u-joint receiver doodad broke... I think thats the correct name for that piece anyways

 

very interested....what kind of hp is this bottom end good for?

 

Should be good to easily 900 rwhp. Many people have pushed stock cranks further than that even...

 

bump!