Crank hub removal, need help
10-15-2008, 11:36 PM
#1
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Crank hub removal, need help Well, I got the ballancer off with the puller. But I don't know for sure how to go about pulling off the hub. Do I just use puller again and do the exact same thing? does the bolt have to be removed inside of the puller also? Do I need the "key" that goes in it or no?
10-16-2008, 08:04 AM
#2
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1B...eature=related
You don't have to use that exact kit, you just need the puller and three long bolts.
Make sure you remove the bolt holding the hub on the crank before using the puller
(seems obvious, but people do silly things sometimes)
Some people prefer to take a bolt with the same thread as the crank hub bolt, only 1" longer and
thread it into the crank. You can then use the puller to press against that to get the hub off.
The method shown in the video works just as well.
A few other useful reads on the subject
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/damper.html
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_install.html
You don't have to use that exact kit, you just need the puller and three long bolts.
Make sure you remove the bolt holding the hub on the crank before using the puller
(seems obvious, but people do silly things sometimes)
Some people prefer to take a bolt with the same thread as the crank hub bolt, only 1" longer and
thread it into the crank. You can then use the puller to press against that to get the hub off.
The method shown in the video works just as well.
A few other useful reads on the subject
http://www.go-fast.org/z28/damper.html
http://shbox.com/ci/cam_install.html
Last edited by James Montigny; 10-16-2008 at 08:16 AM.
02-21-2009, 09:45 PM
#5
The best way is to use an allen headed bolt that is slightly thinner than the crank bolt. You remove the crank bolt and the bottom out the allen headed bolt into the crank. The pointed part of the puller will center itself perfectly inside of the allen head which will allow you to pull the hub off very easily.
You shouldn't use the stock crank bolt. As you tighten the puller, the point on the puller will slowly work it's way off to the side of the bolt and slightly **** the puller. You risk damaging the threads on the inside of the crank also, especially if you back the stock bolt out far enough so that it is barely threaded. just remove it and use the proper allen headed bolt.
You shouldn't use the stock crank bolt. As you tighten the puller, the point on the puller will slowly work it's way off to the side of the bolt and slightly **** the puller. You risk damaging the threads on the inside of the crank also, especially if you back the stock bolt out far enough so that it is barely threaded. just remove it and use the proper allen headed bolt.
02-21-2009, 09:46 PM
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02-21-2009, 09:53 PM
#7
The hub doesn't need to be perfectly lined up when you re-install it. It has an orientation arrow on it. Just do your best to line it up. The crank sprocket needs to be perfectly lined up, which is why it is keyed.
