LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

what headgasket to run?

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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 05:15 PM
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Default what headgasket to run?

long story short, thermostat stuck closed, overheated the motor, true dual pipes, water coming from drivers side, hydrolocked trying to start one day. anyways i got the drivers head off, found a fel pro 9966pt gasket, i measure the bore with a digital mic at the top because no one has a set of telescopic gauegs, i read 4.026-4.027 so i assume .030 over right? anyways, i cannot find THAT gasket in .030.... and after inspecting it, i would believe that thats a standard bore gasket because of the coloring on the actual sealing ring around the cylinder bore.

my question is this, upon searching for a decent MLS and thick gasket, i keep seeing people with 355's running a fel pro 1074 gasket, now this is a 4.125 bore gasket, and in one thread on here a guy said that with a 4.030 actual bore, a 4.1xx gasket is ideal.

what ?


anyways, if you do a google search there are MULTIPLE results of people running 1074's on 355s? so im gonna probably go ahead and get this wonder gasket... the other question is on jegs the gasket description says i have to machine rings into the head... is this true? have the other people been doing that?

thanks.


also, i bought the car as a D1sc 95 z28, it has the 12 rib kit on it with the two intercoolers, taking the engine apart i found head studs, and low compression pistons.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 05:22 PM
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iirc, the ideal gasket bore size is .040 larger than your cylinder bore size. also i think you only need orings if you plan to run copper head gaskets. not sure what type the 1074 is though. im running a flatout saberseal mls gasket thats working well so far but not many miles on the motor.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 05:26 PM
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man the other thing i forgot to mention is that i think my heads have been milled in the past, and if i look at them from the side, i would swear to GOD that the intake valve overhangs the lip of the actual deck of the head. just how much more can i go. lol

pics for reference!


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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 06:44 PM
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good work so far. I used the 1074's this summer and had zero problems for 2k miles so far. I would recommend them for sure. Also, did you put those studs in? If not then the heads have clearly been removed before since these motors come with bolts stock. I also ordered ARP head bolts and torqued them to 75ft/lbs. Let me know if you have any questions. Ive done this twice now haha
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 08:50 PM
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When I did a heads cam swap on my Impala I used the Napa Victor .026 gaskets.That was two years ago,no problems.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ohio96ss
When I did a heads cam swap on my Impala I used the Napa Victor .026 gaskets.That was two years ago,no problems.
Be sure to check your deck height before running <.035" gaskets.
You could run into Piston/Head collision issues if you have a zero deck.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 10:08 PM
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You are worrying about gasket bore way too much.
Quite possible the intake valve hangs past the deck, not nec essarily a problem.

I would get the head checked as it may be soft.

To pick a gasket I would find out how close the piston is to the deck and go from there.

I would also be pulling the engine and having the rod inspected, since you let it hydrolock there is a chance the rod could be bent. Would rather see you find it now than have it window the block or even just wound the crank.
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Old Oct 17, 2008 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
You are worrying about gasket bore way too much.
Quite possible the intake valve hangs past the deck, not nec essarily a problem.

I would get the head checked as it may be soft.

To pick a gasket I would find out how close the piston is to the deck and go from there.

I would also be pulling the engine and having the rod inspected, since you let it hydrolock there is a chance the rod could be bent. Would rather see you find it now than have it window the block or even just wound the crank.
head is getting checked, as stated the car overheated. man as far as the rod, before it all goes back together im gonna depth mic the engine. this is the one thing im real hung up on. the engine DID start up immediately after this though.... i know i shouldn't have retried to start it but if i don't care its only money. when ti was running is when i saw the water out the tail pipe. i DID listen closely for any knocking noises and heard none. were gonna hope its all ok. lol.




and yes i understand the engine has been gone through before. supposedly a forged 355, so far ive found the head studs, ported heads, and the dished pistons. so i feel its pretty safe to assume it has a built bottom end also.
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 07:01 AM
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Would be good if you could figure out what size dish the pistons are, might help in choosing a gasket.
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 10:55 AM
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the best i can do with the engine in the car for that is use my mic and get a accurate depth reading of it. im sure we can get very close if i do the rough diameter also.
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 07:57 PM
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1074s felpro here, no problems so far about 5k on them and 10-12psi
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Old Oct 18, 2008 | 08:43 PM
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awesome. did you cut the reciever rings in the heads?

or did you just stomp em on and go!
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