Does anyone know why I would be getting water in my oil after installing guideplates and new roller rockers?
Thanks in advance

 

yea..you need to put sealant on all of the headbolts and rocker studs before torquing them down

 

That made no sense in regards to his problem. Unless he removed the heads to install guide plates and rockers

I can't tell you what's wrong though, Snk. Sorry :\

 

It really can't have anything to do with the mods you just did. Is there actually water in the oil or are you just seeing some whitish looking substance in the oil fill cap or "ceiling" of the valve covers?

 

What exactly doesn't make sense? rocker arm studs have to be removed to put guideplates in...I don't remember off hand if our reverse cooled heads have the coolant ports just below the studs or not, but I believe Gen I motors do

 

and yes fergy is correct...coolant usually shows up as a foamy white build up on the inside of the valve covers

 

What I was getting at was I was trying to figure out if he was just seeing some moisture in the crankcase when he had it apart or if there was actually water in the oil when he pulled the dipstick.

 

Thread sealer on the rocker studs. Very important.

 

Only on the intake studs

 

i pulled the drivers side plugs out a few minutes ago and cranked the engine and water shot out of the rear plug hole, oil is creamy, i have some steam coming coming from the exaust, no over heating issues but the passed couple of mornings the motor seemed to be hydrolocked and took a few tries to get it to crank over. just hope i didn't damage the rings becuase i noticed alot of blow by also.

 

There's really only a few things it can be.

-Head gasket no longer sealing
-Head cracked
-Crack in the cylinder bore

Don't crank it over any more with plugs in it, you can bend the rod.

 

Exactly ... liquids don't compress, they break stuff.

 

and that is why i got my car so cheap. They turned it into water injection

 

Blown head gaskets are pretty easy to replace if you are comfortable with bolting things together.
I picked up my beater that way dirt cheap, fixed the head gasket and ended up
with something I could drive while the Hawk's motor was bring upgraded.

If the block is cracked, that's a whole different story.
More work involved, but a good opportunity to pick up a decent motor
from someone who ran out of funding or initiative on their own project.

 

Now, I will not say I know this for certain, but aren't our heads not very coolant filled? So the bottom of the studs really only has the steam hitting them (hence the steam pipes) and I'd think that wouldn't be near enough to show quantities of coolant in the oil. (In this situation, toss aside the fact he has water in the cylinders so it's a different problem)

 

no, the coolant does pass through them...if it didn't then the aluminum would warp in no time, its simply a question of where those coolant passages are located. and yes if he has coolant in the cylinder then that is a completely separate issue

 

All of the intake threads go through the head to the lifter valley which has oil in it....i had to re tap them on my last motor...there seems to be alot of miss guided information posted on this thread. no offense to those who have posted

 

I was talking about the rocker arm studs that are in the roof of the intake ports. No bad into there:shrug:

What you are referring to would be the intake manifold bolts...

 

Well, no, I know it has coolant flowing through lol I just meant that it wasn't filled to the brim with it :\

 

sorry 350 and fergy...my misunderstanding