James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Should easily make high 11s N/A with DRs and good air.

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

Personally, I would never utilize cast or hyper parts in any engine I plan on using. If you shop around you can find amazing deals on parts. My whole LS, dry sump, solid 408 is being built with parts bought off of this forum.

Block with fresh machine work, eagle forged 4 inch stroke, and lunati pro mod rods = $1500
LS7 crank, oil pan, pick up, oil pump, and front cover = $1100
Wiseco pistons = $525
Solid roller 806 heads = $250

At this point I need rings (100), cam (400), rockers (800ish), springs, retainers (400), exhaust valves (160), gaskets (250), pushrods (110), and bearings (200).

Grand total = $5595 with an extra eagle 4 inch forged crank (can sell for $750)

That may sound like a lot, but look into building a dry sump and solid roller engine. You're going to spend $2500 alone on the dry sump system.

I had all of the parts to build a forged 347 LS1 for $1000 including an extra block and the machine work, but I sold the parts off.

Chevyguy358

iTrader: (4)

I got my shortblock fresh with scat crank and rods and TRW forged pistons for only 1,100, I traded a set of used pistons/rods and two sbc blocks. I also purchased a 7 quart jegs brand pan for cheap and a pump. I had a relatively solid shortblock for only 1,350 or so. Bought a used self ported powdercoated intake ($80), ported heads came on a previous 355 that I got rid of. I bought a 230/236 .544.555 cam. Thats my only regret I should have gone bigger with the cam.

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

Thats a nice budget build. You will like the cam, it will have good street manners. Yea you could of gone bigger, but its a good choice if your setup is going to mainly street driven.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

Mine isn't really a budget build, but its a 383 stroker build I put together, back when I was in high school...The motor is a little over 5yrs old, beat on pretty well, around 15k miles on the short block..No problems.
-Scat cast Crank
-forged Eagle H-beam rods 6"
-JE forged flat top pistons
-Factory ported intake
-Valvetrain by Comp, along with the 306 cam(ran that for 3yrs)
-Stock ported heads,Ferrea valves,etc
-42 SVO injectors
-Holley 58mm TB

I have changed cams, and have done some more intake work, other than that...Its just like it was back in HS..( back when it was a stalled A4 too)

kinglt-1

iTrader: (26)

^I almost went with Nutek back when I bought my 383 shortblock in 03'. The only reason I did not go with them, is chad at golen gave me some better parts for the same price and waived the core charge to get my business. Nice build though.

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

Thanks. Back then, they had a really good reputation for engine building,assembly,etc. I THINK the short block ran around $3300-$3500. Shortly after I got my setup installed they went out of buisness. Last I heard, the main guy over there, went to work for Compstar.

The only thing I would've done different, is that I would have went with a "clean-up" bore, rings, bearings, pistons, and some headwork...then hit it with a Procharger..somethin' like that.

The Batman

iTrader: (4)

suprised more people havent responded to this one...ttt

Beaflag VonRathburg

iTrader: (176)

^ I think this is a great topic that actually hasn't been covered in too much detail. I always find it amusing when, "Which headers are the best?" threads get 200 replies and an actually useful topic gets passed over.

thesoundandthefury

iTrader: (3)

I accidentally stumbled across this the other day:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-...=p4506.c0.m245


At least with the top end package that's included, you wouldn't have to over cam it to get a respectable amount of power out of it.

z28rob18

iTrader: (7)

ill be building my budget 383 this winter $4k budget for the engine then ima buy an s60 only thing im set on is using forged parts so i can safely spray it

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

It's because more people have the money to spend on headers than on a stroker build. This is definitely a great topic, and more than worth having it's own thread, but the bottom line is that bolt-ons sell so well because they are cheap and easy to install. That's why there are more threads on topics like that (even though the first 5 responses are always "use the search feature").

Very interesting thread!

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Good friends 383:

Forged TRW pistons, CR little lower then stock
Stock Rods
Cast Crank
Ported LT1 Heads Flowed mid 250CFM
Comp CC305 Cam

Car ran mid 10s on two kits, one 150 shot wet kit on the elbow, another 150 shot wet kit with a 5lb bottle hidden in the fender, ran in to the cold air. That motor ran 5+ years, had a larger XFI grind and a Vortech S-strim as well as nitrous when it was yanked for better build, was still running fine. He used to post on here as Pigpen. That 300 shot was always on pump gas, car was maybe a high 11 second car on motor, but ran really hard on the gas. Went mid 10s just fine with the 4l60 letting go. Kinda the perfect street racing car.

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

That's a real nice looking Z28! Love the color.

1slo_camaro

iTrader: (2)

sorry if this isnt correct. but im in the military and didnt have time to built my 383 the guy i know built me a good 383 for 1900 that includes headers and my computer re-flashed. everything. its turned 13.1 at 109 spinning. so i would say that it wa defintaly a good built. no crazy noise or anything. everything seems to be pretty good

Mattsz28

iTrader: (1)

Well if everyone else is sharing storys, and merv with his ls1 gets to play too .

I bought a complete 383 Complete intake to oilpan, with a built 4l60e and a 3000stall for 2800$. Motor had like 500miles on it. It dropped a valve and kissed the piston. Motor was a forged scat crank and rods, speed pro hyper pistons (#7 had an eyebrow from the valve), cc306 cam, ported intake, ported heads. Heads were redone after he dropped the valve, manley stuff. Had it in the car and she ran a best et of 12.21 at 116mph, best mph was 118. After having it in their for the summer I decided to go with something a little more radical.

Got a set of Dart pro's heads and sent them out to be ported. Diamond pistons, 11.8:1 compression, got a new intake to have it ported by the same guy that did the heads. Block was redone, decked line bored blah blah, Same cam. 42lb injectors, a dry kit (thinking about going dual stage) All together I'm into the motor and tranny about 5 large. She makes some SERIOUS power. Ran my buddy's GN down on the highway by 2 cars (off the sauce, motors only got shy of 1k on it). His car's been a best of 11.80, so I'm pretty happy with the build. I'll have to wait till next year to get some track numbers on it, She's going away for the winter this weekend I think.

TAEnvy

iTrader: (2)

Come on guys, keep this coming, this is a hell of a thread.

kgkern01

iTrader: (10)

Mine isn't together yet, just got the parts, but I'm building a 385 using my 4-bolt main block with Scat 9000 Cast crank, forged Scat I-beams, forged .040 SRP pistons (I got for $250!), and LE3 heads (2.05/1.60) and custom LE cam (still don't have yet). I will be running 12.1 CR on E85. I'm looking to keep the RPM's around 6600 and hopefully 440rwhp through an M29 T56.

Roadwarrior1956

Still breaking in a 383

4 Bolt Splayed Main Caps Crank
Eagle Cast 3.75" stroke Internally Balanced
Rods Eagle SIR 6" Floating Pin Cam clearanced
Pistons Mahle Forged
Rings Mahle Forged Plasma-Moly
Bearings Clevite
ARP Main Stud
Oil Pump Melling M155HV
everything above was $2800

Below already had
Alum. flywheel
holley 58mmTB
Self ported stock heads, beehive springs, crome moly push rods 1.6 rr
Compcamp CCA-07-466-8 268 int./276 exh 0.570 int./0.565 exh. lift
This is for a RR Track car and will be soundly thrashed most of the time, will update when track opens back up.

So far 6500 red line has been easily hit a few times without any complaints from the motor, the same as I did with the stock short block with this same setup.

The aluminum flywheel is amazing, it revs like a 4cyl! not an 8.