Wow, it started!
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
**** it is not in one piece. I hope it broke then fell down, I'm hoping it didn't somehow find its way to a valve. I'm going to keep fishing around for the tip.
I think I should put some new pushrods in it maybe. Are these stockers Merv?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Alright I'm feeling a little bit luckier, got the top of it!
Seems to account for all of it, any idea on what the hell happened? Sorry for the picture quality.
Seems to account for all of it, any idea on what the hell happened? Sorry for the picture quality.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
OK so I did what I figure most people would do if they had two LT1's kicking around..... I stole the 4244 pushrods out of the motor I just pulled out of the car. I stuck them in a little less than 3 years ago when I did the head gaskets, they looked just like the day I put them in, so into this motor they went.
I did one full turn after zero lash, while looking into adjusting valves on here, I saw a few people did that. Seeing as they were loose at 3/4, I started from scratch, especially now that the lifters had at least got some oil in them. Its all back together, tommarow morning its turn the key time again, wish me luck.
I did one full turn after zero lash, while looking into adjusting valves on here, I saw a few people did that. Seeing as they were loose at 3/4, I started from scratch, especially now that the lifters had at least got some oil in them. Its all back together, tommarow morning its turn the key time again, wish me luck.
Yea, they are stockers bro..never put in any aftermarket ones in that Engine. Looks like it was too lose and came out and hit something, then broke when it bound up. It shouldn't have hurt anything inside the Engine.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Yeah Merv, I tossed some in there that are a bit fresher.
Now that the lifters aren't fully collapsed like they probably were the first time I adjusted them I hope they are alright now. We'll find out in the morning. I figure it broke clean, doesn't look like any chunks or anything. I called someone around 3:30 when I found that one MIA and asked them if it could be loose enough to come out and they said yeah its happened before.
I was just happy I didn't have to pull the intake. I'm dying to drive this thing, not take 6 steps backwards.
Now that the lifters aren't fully collapsed like they probably were the first time I adjusted them I hope they are alright now. We'll find out in the morning. I figure it broke clean, doesn't look like any chunks or anything. I called someone around 3:30 when I found that one MIA and asked them if it could be loose enough to come out and they said yeah its happened before.I was just happy I didn't have to pull the intake. I'm dying to drive this thing, not take 6 steps backwards.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
I officially hate adjusting valves. Now they seem too tight? Car won't fire off and stay running. Runs for about a second then dies. Great so at 3/4 turn they were way too loose, now at a full turn they are too tight???
Can someone explain to me the rotate the crank 8 times method? Like where the crank pointer is facing I can adjust what valve? The half and half method(#1 TDC then #6 TDC) seems to suck ***. Oh yeah and damn the LT1 for making me take the alternator off to get to the valve cover to come out. That part is getting old.
Can someone explain to me the rotate the crank 8 times method? Like where the crank pointer is facing I can adjust what valve? The half and half method(#1 TDC then #6 TDC) seems to suck ***. Oh yeah and damn the LT1 for making me take the alternator off to get to the valve cover to come out. That part is getting old.
This is your problem..Me and only me would know this..this is something that I told you before but I guess we forgot it till now. I just remembered it.
The Hub went on 120* off of where it should be, as in it's a 1/3 turn from #1 TDC. This was before I realized that the Hub only bolted on a certian way, I thought at the time that you could bolt it in any way.
I didn't have a puller at the time so it went together like that, if I had a puller, I would have pulled it.
If I remember right, it's a 1/3 Turn behind where it should be. The easiest way is to pull the Valve Covers, turn the Hub to where #1 and #6 are closed, and then see where it is. Then check to see which one is at TDC.
I know this will help..then once you get this figured out, you can do the #1/#6 method without a problem.
Flame suit on..
The Hub went on 120* off of where it should be, as in it's a 1/3 turn from #1 TDC. This was before I realized that the Hub only bolted on a certian way, I thought at the time that you could bolt it in any way.
I didn't have a puller at the time so it went together like that, if I had a puller, I would have pulled it.
If I remember right, it's a 1/3 Turn behind where it should be. The easiest way is to pull the Valve Covers, turn the Hub to where #1 and #6 are closed, and then see where it is. Then check to see which one is at TDC.
I know this will help..then once you get this figured out, you can do the #1/#6 method without a problem.
Flame suit on..
Last edited by the_merv; Oct 30, 2008 at 01:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Well I'm going to attack that now, now that I'm info equipped.
Figured out why code 43, the knock sensor is reading open. Great...... must have gotten damaged sometime between AK and going in the car, I'm ordering a new one today, should show up 1 PM tomorrow. I'm not shocked though, I banged the knock sensor on my other motor on pullout, I somehow have the feeling the guts of the sensor aren't built too stout.
For ***** and giggles I tested the one on the motor I pulled out. 4.2k ohms, within range. I know what a bitch they are to pull out, so instead of maybe needing two someday(potentially damaging the good one on removal, when that motor is destined for my truck), I just ordered a new one for the motor I just stuck in the car. $53 from the dealership, and like I always state, buy all your sensors from GM.
Figured out why code 43, the knock sensor is reading open. Great...... must have gotten damaged sometime between AK and going in the car, I'm ordering a new one today, should show up 1 PM tomorrow. I'm not shocked though, I banged the knock sensor on my other motor on pullout, I somehow have the feeling the guts of the sensor aren't built too stout.
For ***** and giggles I tested the one on the motor I pulled out. 4.2k ohms, within range. I know what a bitch they are to pull out, so instead of maybe needing two someday(potentially damaging the good one on removal, when that motor is destined for my truck), I just ordered a new one for the motor I just stuck in the car. $53 from the dealership, and like I always state, buy all your sensors from GM.
Last edited by camar0corey; Oct 30, 2008 at 11:15 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Yeah yeah, I've been a little stressed.
Third time's a charm! It was 120 degrees off, got that sorted out, fired right up again. New knock sensor is supposed to be in tomorrow at one, tomorrow afternoon will be first drive. Gotta stick some fluid in the rear end, have a pinion seal leak that can't be taken care of til next week.
Anyone see any issues with mixing normal gear oil with Royal Purple? Got RP in the differential now, but some has leaked out and well I'm not paying $15+ just to have more of it bleed out.
Third time's a charm! It was 120 degrees off, got that sorted out, fired right up again. New knock sensor is supposed to be in tomorrow at one, tomorrow afternoon will be first drive. Gotta stick some fluid in the rear end, have a pinion seal leak that can't be taken care of til next week.
Anyone see any issues with mixing normal gear oil with Royal Purple? Got RP in the differential now, but some has leaked out and well I'm not paying $15+ just to have more of it bleed out.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Yeah behind, pointer on the balancer is angled at the ground on the passenger side, I threw some whiteout on the top, I suppose I will find something a little more permanent to mark it with.
My question is, the hub is keyed, how did you manage to install it incorrectly? I'm not too worried, I did see it power your car to a 12.7. Sounded nasty today, I can't wait to get that knock sensor tommarow and take it for the first drive, should sound even better when not in limp mode. What's my luck with knock sensors and adjusting rockers? I suppose everyone has something that likes to go wrong for them. I had both these issues when I did my head gaskets three years ago.
My question is, the hub is keyed, how did you manage to install it incorrectly? I'm not too worried, I did see it power your car to a 12.7.
Sounded nasty today, I can't wait to get that knock sensor tommarow and take it for the first drive, should sound even better when not in limp mode. What's my luck with knock sensors and adjusting rockers? I suppose everyone has something that likes to go wrong for them. I had both these issues when I did my head gaskets three years ago. 
Best way to fully ensure you are at TDC on #1 is to take the #1 spark plug out, get a thick drinking straw (McD's works well), insert into cylinder making sure it goes all the way in to where it's below the quench area, turn the engine by hand until the most resistence can be felt when tugging on the straw and also making sure both valves are closed. If a damper is not keyed you should never depend on using that as a TDC reference.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 2
From: Spring Hill, FL
Oh Merv was right, its 120 degrees off. I had the angle finder I use when adjusting the torque arm as a reference. I have now marked #1 TDC on the balancer. I won't worry about it again unless I take all that apart someday, which I doubt. Someday this motor will probably go boom, hopefully not for a long time, but when it does something LS will be going in its place.
All I know is the valves are good now, that **** was driving me nuts.
All I know is the valves are good now, that **** was driving me nuts.
I installed it 120* off cause I thought that it didnt matter what way that it went on for the Balancer. I installed it with the Heads off, so I knew easily that it would be #1 TDC, I just intalled it a third turn off..
The fastest time on that Engine was a 12.61@110.. so that should make you a little happy..
The fastest time on that Engine was a 12.61@110.. so that should make you a little happy..
