Wow, it started!
I haven't driven it yet, just wanted to see if it ran and I had oil. Yep has good pressure and holds a idle, its so freaking loud open header I can't tell if the valves are somewhat adjusted right. I'm guessing they aren't too tight as it fired up once I primed the fuel for the 4th time. Got a SES light, I forgot to setup my laptop, so don't know what it popped for, I'm hoping nothing serious, perhaps due to the fact there is no exhaust on the thing. Does that freak out o2 sensors to the point it will pop a code? Oh well next startup I will have freescan running.
ACHotrod, I took my car off the road in June. I bought the_Merv's motor he built before his current badass setup. It had been sitting in my garage for over a year, once the rear main blew out of my 165k stocker(not to mention that oil was coming out of everywhere, but the rear main did the clutch in, what a mess) I decided it was def. time to swap the motor in. I'm just happy after I decided to prime the fuel pump a little more it fired right off.
If I have any loose valves I'd never be able to tell, I'm trying to get my exhaust on the thing by Tuesday before I fire it up again.
Sounds really good, I see you used my custom Engineered Alternator Bracket..I kept snapping that off for some reason, the second time I said the hell with buying a new one.
That Engine was really loud for a Hot Cam Engine, it's 11.0:1 Compression. Melling High Pressure Oil Pump too, so you better have Oil Pressue..lol
It's a runner too, that thing was an LS1 Killer, so keep it's name..lol
The Valves on that thing are really touchy, you will find that out when you go to adjust them.
Congrats.
Last edited by the_merv; Oct 26, 2008 at 03:53 AM.
Yeah if it works why change it? I didn't feel like swapping the brackets. Hopefully I don't need that little bracket on the back of the A/C compressor to the block, I figured it was stable enough by what was holding it out front.
This is only my second time trying to adjust valves, at least it started. My first attempt a few years back was complete failure, Comp's instructions didn't state that the pushrod would be loose on the next rotation of the crank so of course I kept tightening them.
Hopefully I don't have any too tight, I used the half and half method, half of them at #1 TDC then the other half at #6 TDC. I did 3/4 turn past zero. Like I said if I have any loose ones at the minute I can't hear them, gotta finish my exhaust this week.
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.Running open headers for a day and a half was enough to kill the o2's on my car after I finished the first build, just driving a few miles to work. Part of that was from the brand new headers burning off the innner coating though.
Sure sounds intimidating as hell, right?
Tie it all together and start thrashing it for those of us who's latest builds aren't running yet!!
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Damn Merv, that's just wrong.
Also popping code 43, yep knock sensor circuit. OK have some questions here. If the rockers are loose, will this induce the knock sensor to trip? I have a LT4 KM, and according to the sheet Ion included with the PCM when it was sent back, the knock was also desensitized. Any issue if the LT4 KM is installed and the PCM was desensitized?
Well off to adjust rockers!
That's my question though, if when tuned it was desensitized, but I already had a LT4 KM in the PCM(I neglected to state that on my tune order sheet) will this cause issues??
I'm thinking I'm going to do another half turn, then button everything back up and see how it runs. I'm sure the lifters weren't pumped up at all during the first adjustment, I hate adjusting valves, its like voodoo to me.
So I go to adjust the valves right? Well at least now I know why it ran like complete *** this morning unlike the first startup.
#4 intake pushrod is ******* gone!!! Great, time to spill some fuel while pulling the intake manifold, I am very unhappy. Going out and hoping I can get the thing without pulling the intake, but its unlikely.




