Best upgrade heads? Pricing?
And you keep saying 'CAMS' we are a pushrod V8 we only have 1 'CAM'
and you can pick up a cam from Comp Cams for just under 300 for an off the shelfer, for a custom grind be thinking 300 for starters. then you need usually lifters, Roller rockers, new pushrods, valve springs depending on the lift of the cam, guide plates and the whole bit, its about $1000 worth of stuff if you do it correctly the first time.
and you can pick up a cam from Comp Cams for just under 300 for an off the shelfer, for a custom grind be thinking 300 for starters. then you need usually lifters, Roller rockers, new pushrods, valve springs depending on the lift of the cam, guide plates and the whole bit, its about $1000 worth of stuff if you do it correctly the first time.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
And you keep saying 'CAMS' we are a pushrod V8 we only have 1 'CAM'
and you can pick up a cam from Comp Cams for just under 300 for an off the shelfer, for a custom grind be thinking 300 for starters. then you need usually lifters, Roller rockers, new pushrods, valve springs depending on the lift of the cam, guide plates and the whole bit, its about $1000 worth of stuff if you do it correctly the first time.
and you can pick up a cam from Comp Cams for just under 300 for an off the shelfer, for a custom grind be thinking 300 for starters. then you need usually lifters, Roller rockers, new pushrods, valve springs depending on the lift of the cam, guide plates and the whole bit, its about $1000 worth of stuff if you do it correctly the first time.
after reading the sticky on cams with a stock head, most cams it seems you only need the valve springs upgraded. so im thinking like 200 for a used cam and some valve springs?
Thread Starter
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
really quick, what are your thoughts on this cam?
New in box is a Comp Cams Magnum camshaft. Here are the specs-
Int- .525
Exh- .525
duration @ .050- 253 (both)
duration @ .006- 305
lobe separation- 110.0
New in box is a Comp Cams Magnum camshaft. Here are the specs-
Int- .525
Exh- .525
duration @ .050- 253 (both)
duration @ .006- 305
lobe separation- 110.0
I think the duration is 25-30 degrees too big at .050.
Look instead at cams under 230 degrees at .050".
I did a cam before I had all the supporting mods and it was a mistake. I see you have some of the stuff like headers but you should do gears firt too and you have to reprogram it when you do the cam, and not the hypercrap stuff.
Might look into an MSD cap and rotor kit NOT the whole opti. Their cap and rotor kit will retrofit the a venting system into the distributor which helps longevity and reliability.
Cam swap is going to cost more than you think a good complete parts pile will cost $1000 pretty easily, you can save some money but not a lot wthout making big compromises.
Good springs to stand up to modern lobes are expensive but not buying good springs cost een more.
Comps listed RPM ranges are WAY off add an easy 800rpms to what they advertise to get a more realistic number and keep the engine beow 6500 may even consider keeping it below 6300.
I take my stock shortblock to 6500 but while I do drive it a LOT I also have another car to fall back on and if I hurt the motor have no problem finding a junkyard shortblock and slapping it in in a weekend due to being experianced, fairly well equipped and haveing some very good friends always eager to help. Not everyone is so fortunate so if hurting the stock shortblock would be a big problem for you try and keep rpms a bit lower.
What happens with rpms is the rod bearings spin which is likely due to mediocre stock rodbolts allowing the rod big ends to wiggle.
Look instead at cams under 230 degrees at .050".
I did a cam before I had all the supporting mods and it was a mistake. I see you have some of the stuff like headers but you should do gears firt too and you have to reprogram it when you do the cam, and not the hypercrap stuff.
Might look into an MSD cap and rotor kit NOT the whole opti. Their cap and rotor kit will retrofit the a venting system into the distributor which helps longevity and reliability.
Cam swap is going to cost more than you think a good complete parts pile will cost $1000 pretty easily, you can save some money but not a lot wthout making big compromises.
Good springs to stand up to modern lobes are expensive but not buying good springs cost een more.
Comps listed RPM ranges are WAY off add an easy 800rpms to what they advertise to get a more realistic number and keep the engine beow 6500 may even consider keeping it below 6300.
I take my stock shortblock to 6500 but while I do drive it a LOT I also have another car to fall back on and if I hurt the motor have no problem finding a junkyard shortblock and slapping it in in a weekend due to being experianced, fairly well equipped and haveing some very good friends always eager to help. Not everyone is so fortunate so if hurting the stock shortblock would be a big problem for you try and keep rpms a bit lower.
What happens with rpms is the rod bearings spin which is likely due to mediocre stock rodbolts allowing the rod big ends to wiggle.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 966
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
I think the duration is 25-30 degrees too big at .050.
Look instead at cams under 230 degrees at .050".
I did a cam before I had all the supporting mods and it was a mistake. I see you have some of the stuff like headers but you should do gears firt too and you have to reprogram it when you do the cam, and not the hypercrap stuff.
Might look into an MSD cap and rotor kit NOT the whole opti. Their cap and rotor kit will retrofit the a venting system into the distributor which helps longevity and reliability.
Cam swap is going to cost more than you think a good complete parts pile will cost $1000 pretty easily, you can save some money but not a lot wthout making big compromises.
Good springs to stand up to modern lobes are expensive but not buying good springs cost een more.
Comps listed RPM ranges are WAY off add an easy 800rpms to what they advertise to get a more realistic number and keep the engine beow 6500 may even consider keeping it below 6300.
I take my stock shortblock to 6500 but while I do drive it a LOT I also have another car to fall back on and if I hurt the motor have no problem finding a junkyard shortblock and slapping it in in a weekend due to being experianced, fairly well equipped and haveing some very good friends always eager to help. Not everyone is so fortunate so if hurting the stock shortblock would be a big problem for you try and keep rpms a bit lower.
What happens with rpms is the rod bearings spin which is likely due to mediocre stock rodbolts allowing the rod big ends to wiggle.
Look instead at cams under 230 degrees at .050".
I did a cam before I had all the supporting mods and it was a mistake. I see you have some of the stuff like headers but you should do gears firt too and you have to reprogram it when you do the cam, and not the hypercrap stuff.
Might look into an MSD cap and rotor kit NOT the whole opti. Their cap and rotor kit will retrofit the a venting system into the distributor which helps longevity and reliability.
Cam swap is going to cost more than you think a good complete parts pile will cost $1000 pretty easily, you can save some money but not a lot wthout making big compromises.
Good springs to stand up to modern lobes are expensive but not buying good springs cost een more.
Comps listed RPM ranges are WAY off add an easy 800rpms to what they advertise to get a more realistic number and keep the engine beow 6500 may even consider keeping it below 6300.
I take my stock shortblock to 6500 but while I do drive it a LOT I also have another car to fall back on and if I hurt the motor have no problem finding a junkyard shortblock and slapping it in in a weekend due to being experianced, fairly well equipped and haveing some very good friends always eager to help. Not everyone is so fortunate so if hurting the stock shortblock would be a big problem for you try and keep rpms a bit lower.
What happens with rpms is the rod bearings spin which is likely due to mediocre stock rodbolts allowing the rod big ends to wiggle.
So to keep my RPM's lower, this might be better?
GMPP:
LT4 Hot Cam: (218/228 .525/.525 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Good drivability with a nice midrange, step up up from the factory LT4 camshaft hence the "Hot" in LT4 "Hot Cam". An older design but has proven itself in terms of reliability and decent power output.
Pass Emissions?: Yes
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6100-6300rpm
Idle Characteristics: Slighty Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
How much would this setup run me and what kind of power would i be seeing? anyone know this?
Fully-assembled LE2 heads and a custom billet cam will cost you about $1650
Expect a good 20 hours of install time. Plus gaskets, timing chain, rockers, pushrods, studs, guides, fluids and head bolts.
If you can do it yourself, you can save a lot of money.
Figure $2200 for quality parts, plus labor and a good tune.
400+ rwhp (depending on cam and trans) on a stock bottom end.
Expect a good 20 hours of install time. Plus gaskets, timing chain, rockers, pushrods, studs, guides, fluids and head bolts.
If you can do it yourself, you can save a lot of money.
Figure $2200 for quality parts, plus labor and a good tune.
400+ rwhp (depending on cam and trans) on a stock bottom end.
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Verdad Gallardo great information, thank you.
So to keep my RPM's lower, this might be better?
GMPP:
LT4 Hot Cam: (218/228 .525/.525 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Good drivability with a nice midrange, step up up from the factory LT4 camshaft hence the "Hot" in LT4 "Hot Cam". An older design but has proven itself in terms of reliability and decent power output.
Pass Emissions?: Yes
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6100-6300rpm
Idle Characteristics: Slighty Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
How much would this setup run me and what kind of power would i be seeing? anyone know this?
So to keep my RPM's lower, this might be better?
GMPP:
LT4 Hot Cam: (218/228 .525/.525 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Good drivability with a nice midrange, step up up from the factory LT4 camshaft hence the "Hot" in LT4 "Hot Cam". An older design but has proven itself in terms of reliability and decent power output.
Pass Emissions?: Yes
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6100-6300rpm
Idle Characteristics: Slighty Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
How much would this setup run me and what kind of power would i be seeing? anyone know this?
better performance for your time/effort/money.
Something like the CC503 is a nice choice for a stock bottom end LT1.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 966
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
Crane 831 AKA GM846: (222/230 .543/.563 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Very similar to the cc503 just with 2 degrees less duration at .050 on the intake side and more lift on both the intake and exhaust side. Right there with the cc503 in terms of being widely known for the largest cam you want to run on stock heads to retain good drivability and usable power. Has a strong mid-range and good top-end power. May have some cam surge.
Pass Emissions?: No, requires tuning to pass
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6200-6400rpm
Idle Characteristics: Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
So something more like this then you think??? How much would this setup run me? Does anyone have a link to the actualy cc503 cam?
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 966
Likes: 0
From: Redondo Beach, CA
Crane 831 AKA GM846: (222/230 .543/.563 112lsa) w/ 1.6RR's
Very similar to the cc503 just with 2 degrees less duration at .050 on the intake side and more lift on both the intake and exhaust side. Right there with the cc503 in terms of being widely known for the largest cam you want to run on stock heads to retain good drivability and usable power. Has a strong mid-range and good top-end power. May have some cam surge.
Pass Emissions?: No, requires tuning to pass
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6200-6400rpm
Idle Characteristics: Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
So something more like this then you think??? How much would this setup run me? Does anyone have a link to the actualy cc503 cam?
Very similar to the cc503 just with 2 degrees less duration at .050 on the intake side and more lift on both the intake and exhaust side. Right there with the cc503 in terms of being widely known for the largest cam you want to run on stock heads to retain good drivability and usable power. Has a strong mid-range and good top-end power. May have some cam surge.
Pass Emissions?: No, requires tuning to pass
Shift Point for Maximum Performance: 6200-6400rpm
Idle Characteristics: Choppy Idle
M6; Require Gears?: No
A4; Require Stall?: 2500+ Stall Speed
So something more like this then you think??? How much would this setup run me? Does anyone have a link to the actualy cc503 cam?
anyone?
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From: Tempe, Az
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
judging by your post have someone else do the work you are gonna cost your self more money by messing up. no offense. u may be forgetting your gonna need tools like torque wrenches which most peple prolly wouldnt have. also ifyou have never adjusted rocker arms its not hard but its teadiouse.
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 966
Likes: 0
From: Redondo Beach, CA
judging by your post have someone else do the work you are gonna cost your self more money by messing up. no offense. u may be forgetting your gonna need tools like torque wrenches which most peple prolly wouldnt have. also ifyou have never adjusted rocker arms its not hard but its teadiouse.
