Metal in my oil
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Metal in my oil So while changing my oil today I noticed the entire end of my drain plug was covered in metal shavings...which is obviously not a good sign so I was gonna start putting together a list of things I will want for a rebuild. Thought about putting a ls in but it will just cost way to much vs rebuilding the LT...maybe after college
So far the AI 355ci Budget Compstar package looks to fit pretty well w/ strength and be good for a budget build.
Also will be getting a cam. I want something that will make good power throughout the whole rpm range not just something that will make good peak power. I still want to retain decent mileage (somewhere around 19-20) as I'm getting 22-24 right now. So some cam suggestions would be great. Keep in mind this will all be on stock heads. I don't really have a power goal but just want something that will be fun on the streets and see good improvement on the track also.
All new valvetrain also...1.6 roller rockers NSA with hardened pushrods and guideplates, new springs (also suggestions welcomed), steel lockers, etc...my main question is, is it okay to reuse the stock valves or would it be beneficial to get some new ones preferably lighter in weight?
Anything I missed or you have comments about please bcs I'm very open to suggestions at this point...just trying to get a feel for what all I'm gonna do for this as I have a feeling it will be coming very soon
So far the AI 355ci Budget Compstar package looks to fit pretty well w/ strength and be good for a budget build.
Also will be getting a cam. I want something that will make good power throughout the whole rpm range not just something that will make good peak power. I still want to retain decent mileage (somewhere around 19-20) as I'm getting 22-24 right now. So some cam suggestions would be great. Keep in mind this will all be on stock heads. I don't really have a power goal but just want something that will be fun on the streets and see good improvement on the track also.
All new valvetrain also...1.6 roller rockers NSA with hardened pushrods and guideplates, new springs (also suggestions welcomed), steel lockers, etc...my main question is, is it okay to reuse the stock valves or would it be beneficial to get some new ones preferably lighter in weight?
Anything I missed or you have comments about please bcs I'm very open to suggestions at this point...just trying to get a feel for what all I'm gonna do for this as I have a feeling it will be coming very soon
Last edited by transamws6_97; Nov 1, 2008 at 05:36 PM.
Just get it all from Advanced Induction. I would not bother with new valves unless porting the heads, which again you already found the right place to go to.
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Moderators may delete the link you posted, this forum frowns on links to companies that do not advertise here.
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
I've been told by the mods that as long as it's doesn't have www. in it, it's OK to post 
Anyways, I'm curious what you are spending on the rebuilt vs what you think the cost of a GEN III/IV swap is. If you have a M6 then the cost to convert the tranny isn't as much. You can get a nice 5.3L (as a base) from the junkyard for $800 with only 41K (that one is in Michigan via car-part.com a junkyard search engine) ort $640 for a 6L with 94K (Virginia)! As for computer, well $44 for a 4.8L's, $50 for the 6L's, or $60 for the 5.3L's computer. Wiring runs $600 from Painless (4.8, 5.3 and 6L compatible), or I'm sure you could pull everything out of one in the Junkyard for $100-200
Grand total (minus trans conversion costs) is between $1460 with Painless or $1060 w/ a pulled one, for the 5.3L. Or $1290 with Painless or $890 w/ a pulled one, for the 6L.
Then in another 100K miles when this motor goes, you can rebuilt it and go NUTS
Plus have an incredible aftermarket 
Anyways, I'm curious what you are spending on the rebuilt vs what you think the cost of a GEN III/IV swap is. If you have a M6 then the cost to convert the tranny isn't as much. You can get a nice 5.3L (as a base) from the junkyard for $800 with only 41K (that one is in Michigan via car-part.com a junkyard search engine) ort $640 for a 6L with 94K (Virginia)! As for computer, well $44 for a 4.8L's, $50 for the 6L's, or $60 for the 5.3L's computer. Wiring runs $600 from Painless (4.8, 5.3 and 6L compatible), or I'm sure you could pull everything out of one in the Junkyard for $100-200
Grand total (minus trans conversion costs) is between $1460 with Painless or $1060 w/ a pulled one, for the 5.3L. Or $1290 with Painless or $890 w/ a pulled one, for the 6L.
Then in another 100K miles when this motor goes, you can rebuilt it and go NUTS
Plus have an incredible aftermarket Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Cincinnati, OH
I've been told by the mods that as long as it's doesn't have www. in it, it's OK to post
Anyways, I'm curious what you are spending on the rebuilt vs what you think the cost of a GEN III/IV swap is. If you have a M6 then the cost to convert the tranny isn't as much. You can get a nice 5.3L (as a base) from the junkyard for $800 with only 41K (that one is in Michigan via car-part.com a junkyard search engine) ort $640 for a 6L with 94K (Virginia)! As for computer, well $44 for a 4.8L's, $50 for the 6L's, or $60 for the 5.3L's computer. Wiring runs $600 from Painless (4.8, 5.3 and 6L compatible), or I'm sure you could pull everything out of one in the Junkyard for $100-200
Grand total (minus trans conversion costs) is between $1460 with Painless or $1060 w/ a pulled one, for the 5.3L. Or $1290 with Painless or $890 w/ a pulled one, for the 6L.
Then in another 100K miles when this motor goes, you can rebuilt it and go NUTS Plus have an incredible aftermarket
Anyways, I'm curious what you are spending on the rebuilt vs what you think the cost of a GEN III/IV swap is. If you have a M6 then the cost to convert the tranny isn't as much. You can get a nice 5.3L (as a base) from the junkyard for $800 with only 41K (that one is in Michigan via car-part.com a junkyard search engine) ort $640 for a 6L with 94K (Virginia)! As for computer, well $44 for a 4.8L's, $50 for the 6L's, or $60 for the 5.3L's computer. Wiring runs $600 from Painless (4.8, 5.3 and 6L compatible), or I'm sure you could pull everything out of one in the Junkyard for $100-200
Grand total (minus trans conversion costs) is between $1460 with Painless or $1060 w/ a pulled one, for the 5.3L. Or $1290 with Painless or $890 w/ a pulled one, for the 6L.
Then in another 100K miles when this motor goes, you can rebuilt it and go NUTS
Plus have an incredible aftermarket TECH Senior Member
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
You don't NEED to swap K-Members, the_merv didn't. And you wouldn't have to run new exhaust yet either. Just grab someones factory manifolds and Y-Pipe for the mean time.
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From: Cincinnati, OH
can you just put different motor mounts on the stock k member? and i would need to do something other than stock manifolds cuz i have true duals...so i would just pony up some extra cash for longtubes and just do a slight modifications to my duals
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