BlownEarDrums

iTrader: (2)

There usually is enough voltage drop between the battery and the cabin fuse box to cause the alt to charge. You can use either option a or b. The Idea with the light is the better idea. If the motor is in a 4th gen F-body then you can run a wire from the 10 amp ignition fuse in the engine bay fuse box, to a light, and then to the alternator. You should then be able to see a charge. Also... check your charging light in your dash. If it is burnt out then that may be your problem. Change it and check for charging before you make the above modifications permanent.

crookedbowtie

Thanks, the bulb resistance is 50ohms. I bought a 50ohm 5watt resistor and wired it to a spare 12volt switched ignition feed under the hood (used to go to the 4 banger's injectors). That should relay the voltage drop. I am considering adding a 10amp fuse as well after looking at your great pictures. Unfortunately the alternator doesn't power up so I think it is toast. It isn't in a Camaro it is in my daily driver 88' Toyota 4runner, so I don't have the same generator dash light and am running after market Auto meters including a volt gauge so I wanted to avoid running another wire in the cab and back.

crookedbowtie

Tried a 100ohms, still no charge. I am pretty sure that alternator is fried since it should work with less resistance until it is fried which it must be. Found some more info stating I need a 470ohm resistor which makes sense since the 50 and 100ohm doesn't drop the cold voltage much. I don't know how they came up with that which bothers me especially since the bulb resistance measured 50ohms unless the Camaro doesn't use a 194 0r 168 and uses a neon bulb or maybe a bulb in conjunction with a 420ohm resistor hidden up under the dash somewhere. I will get another new alternator and start with 470ohms and work my way down only if that doesn't send enough power to excite the alternator.

crookedbowtie

Easy way if any body has this problem. The plug on the back of the harness has four pins only one is used. If you want to use straight switched 12v just chan the pin from the L (light ) terminal to the I ( ignition terminal) it is resisted internally already. If you don't want to switch it use a 470ohm resistor on the L terminal and work your way down in ohms if it doesn't turn on. I just switched pins 14.8 volts and good to go.... taught this by a local shop and he proved it all on the bench. Way simpler than I imagined.