Leaking coolant, where from?!
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
Not my diagrams, those are from ShoeBox's site (www.shbox.com).
Extremely useful.
You'll find similar diagrams in any GM, Haynes or Chilton's manual.
The WP is actually not too difficult to swap. 6 bolts
I usually drop my radiator fans to make it easier, but otherwise you can pull it
off without undoing much beyond the intake, hoses and accessory belt.
(and drain the coolant, obviously)
It's a great excuse to replace the stocker with an electric water pump.
http://www.projecttransam.com/projects9.asp
Extremely useful.
You'll find similar diagrams in any GM, Haynes or Chilton's manual.
The WP is actually not too difficult to swap. 6 bolts
I usually drop my radiator fans to make it easier, but otherwise you can pull it
off without undoing much beyond the intake, hoses and accessory belt.
(and drain the coolant, obviously)
It's a great excuse to replace the stocker with an electric water pump.
http://www.projecttransam.com/projects9.asp
When you are done, you'd have a stock pump.
I've never rebuilt a stock pump, but it hardly seems worth it when you can
get a reman for $70 or buy one from someone parting out an LT1 for $30.
I suggested the EWP as a way to pick up a few HP out of the deal.
But you are right, it will cost you a little more.
Thread Starter
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
You could rebuild a stock pump or trade it in for a remanufactured one, yes.
When you are done, you'd have a stock pump.
I've never rebuilt a stock pump, but it hardly seems worth it when you can
get a reman for $70 or buy one from someone parting out an LT1 for $30.
I suggested the EWP as a way to pick up a few HP out of the deal.
But you are right, it will cost you a little more.
When you are done, you'd have a stock pump.
I've never rebuilt a stock pump, but it hardly seems worth it when you can
get a reman for $70 or buy one from someone parting out an LT1 for $30.
I suggested the EWP as a way to pick up a few HP out of the deal.
But you are right, it will cost you a little more.
I dont even know if it's my waterpump, I should probably figure that one out first. lol
Yes, it might be something as simple as a leaking hose. (much easier and cheaper fix)
My personal opinion is that they improve throttle response and help the engine rev faster.
They don't add as much power as they might on other motors.
Specifically, I like them on H/C cars because they have a higher idle and the overdrive alt pulley becomes unnecessary.
Would I do it on a stock motor? Probably not. Not at full retail price anyhow.
Thread Starter
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
That's a hot topic around here.
My personal opinion is that they improve throttle response and help the engine rev faster.
They don't add as much power as they might on other motors.
Specifically, I like them on H/C cars because they have a higher idle and the overdrive alt pulley becomes unnecessary.
Would I do it on a stock motor? Probably not. Not at full retail price anyhow.
My personal opinion is that they improve throttle response and help the engine rev faster.
They don't add as much power as they might on other motors.
Specifically, I like them on H/C cars because they have a higher idle and the overdrive alt pulley becomes unnecessary.
Would I do it on a stock motor? Probably not. Not at full retail price anyhow.
On my E36 M3 it got me about 5 HP, not bad, but it was 200 bucks. I probably wont waste my time with mods like that when i can spend 500 and get a ton more HP out of a cam.
Ill keep you guys posted tonight with some pictures, thanks for all the help
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so is the coolant hitting the k-member? there are plenty of places it could be coming out. i would say waterpump/thermostat housing first. rad hoses second. heater hoses third. rad 4th. overflow bottle 5th. get pics though.
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When you refill these cooling systems.. do you have to bleed them? or just fill em up and thats it?
Use those to bleed air out while you add water/coolant.
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i will update tonight when i get home..
Thread Starter
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you know whats awesome though? it lost a LOT of coolant because i drove around all day not realizing it was leaking and the needle never moved, stayed cool and i was driving hard. these cars are awesome, if this was my E36 M3 one bubble of air in the system or a drop of coolant on the ground would mean it would overheat and warp the head.
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you know whats awesome though? it lost a LOT of coolant because i drove around all day not realizing it was leaking and the needle never moved, stayed cool and i was driving hard. these cars are awesome, if this was my E36 M3 one bubble of air in the system or a drop of coolant on the ground would mean it would overheat and warp the head.
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1. fill up system with coolant
2. start the car and warm it up a little
3. open the bleeder screw, let some air out, close it.
4. rev the car up a little, 1500RMP for a minute or so
5. open bleeder screw, let air out. close it.
6. repeat until air stops coming out
7. done
sound right?
well, i predict a bleed in the very near future, so ill probably be reading up on proper bleeding instructions. this is what i know from previous experience.
1. fill up system with coolant
2. start the car and warm it up a little
3. open the bleeder screw, let some air out, close it.
4. rev the car up a little, 1500RMP for a minute or so
5. open bleeder screw, let air out. close it.
6. repeat until air stops coming out
7. done
sound right?
1. fill up system with coolant
2. start the car and warm it up a little
3. open the bleeder screw, let some air out, close it.
4. rev the car up a little, 1500RMP for a minute or so
5. open bleeder screw, let air out. close it.
6. repeat until air stops coming out
7. done
sound right?
I leave the screws open while I slowly fill the radiator, shut them when fluid appears.
Finish filling the radiator.
Start car, let it idle until the tstat opens. (watch gauge, it will drop)
Stop, let cool, repeat above steps until air is gone.
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If you open the bleed screw with the pump running, it will spew out more coolant than air.
I leave the screws open while I slowly fill the radiator, shut them when fluid appears.
Finish filling the radiator.
Start car, let it idle until the tstat opens. (watch gauge, it will drop)
Stop, let cool, repeat above steps until air is gone.
I leave the screws open while I slowly fill the radiator, shut them when fluid appears.
Finish filling the radiator.
Start car, let it idle until the tstat opens. (watch gauge, it will drop)
Stop, let cool, repeat above steps until air is gone.