Installing the rag joint eliminator...
It all depend on you impression of easy but rather than wrestle with the tight fit, I took down the panel 'neath the steering wheel column (two phillips head screws and two 1/4"? bolts), the two 10mm nuts from the "V" shaped bracket, the three 10mm bolts at the base of the column(a triangular looking plate that's flat against the firewall) and finally, the two 14mm(?) nuts that suspend the steer column. The column just lays down after that and you can pull it back a few inches. The coupler should slide right off the steering box after that.
It all depend on you impression of easy but rather than wrestle with the tight fit, I took down the panel 'neath the steering wheel column (two phillips head screws and two 1/4"? bolts), the two 10mm nuts from the "V" shaped bracket, the three 10mm bolts at the base of the column(a triangular looking plate that's flat against the firewall) and finally, the two 14mm(?) nuts that suspend the steer column. The column just lays down after that and you can pull it back a few inches. The coupler should slide right off the steering box after that.
Remove the two 7/16th bolts. get under the car and use a piece of wood to lightly hit the bottom of the shaft with a hammer. the bottom part will come right off.
dont be affraid to hit that shaft with a hammer,it may take a few taps but it will slide off......
as far as an alighnment you should not need it for the parts you are swapping they are fixed points
as far as an alighnment you should not need it for the parts you are swapping they are fixed points
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It slides apart. You can see where the adjustment is here: http://www.unbalancedengineering.com...alled_kit.html
It is between the joint on the right and the rag joint eliminator on the left. This particular one looks to be welded but your shouldn't be, just pull apart right here and it will adjust longer and shorter.
It is between the joint on the right and the rag joint eliminator on the left. This particular one looks to be welded but your shouldn't be, just pull apart right here and it will adjust longer and shorter.
I think I see your problem. Try clamping up higher because where you have the vise now is where they slide together and you may just have them clamped together so tightly the one inside won't budge.
"There's several ways to skin a cat..."
If it doesn't come off easily and you haven't done it before, your choices are to give up or try something else. If it's rusted on there quite a bit, then you can do what I suggested and it will work. Especially if you're doing it by yourself. Having taken all that stuff down before (Long tube headers install, replacement of cylinder lock, replacement of ignition switch, etc), it takes me about 5 minutes of actual work to get that steering mast free for this effort. The time saved in aggravation and cursing is well worth it, IMO.
If it doesn't come off easily and you haven't done it before, your choices are to give up or try something else. If it's rusted on there quite a bit, then you can do what I suggested and it will work. Especially if you're doing it by yourself. Having taken all that stuff down before (Long tube headers install, replacement of cylinder lock, replacement of ignition switch, etc), it takes me about 5 minutes of actual work to get that steering mast free for this effort. The time saved in aggravation and cursing is well worth it, IMO.
I did the install, I havn't driven the car yet, but will later today. It was part of a bigger project, and since the steering shaft was off, I said "while I'm in there".
I actually used my own hardware. I didn't really care for the long bolts and double nutting, so I got shorter bolts, used prevailing lock nuts, and locktite. If I could, I would tack weld the nut to the bolt.
I actually used my own hardware. I didn't really care for the long bolts and double nutting, so I got shorter bolts, used prevailing lock nuts, and locktite. If I could, I would tack weld the nut to the bolt.