LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Power loss from incorrect valve train geometry?

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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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Default Power loss from incorrect valve train geometry?

not sure if I should be posting here or advanced, so I'll try here first. I am not totally sure if my valvetrain geometry is correct, but plan to check it out in the next month or so. I don't think it's right becuse the heads were milled and i was told to use stock length pushrods, Also using the felpro gasket which is thinner than stock. anyway, i was just wondering how much power I could possibly be losing (if any) from the pushrods being either too long or too short?

I have some dyno numbers, but the problem could also be in the tune. i got got 295/314 on a mustang dyno. with the mods in my sig, I would hope to put down more than that, and valvetrain is one of the things i think is contributing to my lack of power.

Last edited by ryle; Nov 25, 2008 at 09:47 AM.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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That does seem low. I put down 330 on a Mustang dyno with teh CC503 and stock heads. It wouldn't hurt to check the pushrod length.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 10:36 AM
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do you think that pushrod length could account for that much difference though??
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 11:06 AM
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Probably not all of the difference. What kind of tune do you have? Does the car seem to drive fine?
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 11:11 AM
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most of the time its a number of things that will cause lower then optimal dyno numbers. It takes a lot of time and knowledge to get everything out of a combo.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 11:13 AM
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The tune is what I would consider the equivelant of a mail order, I got it on another forum from a user claiming to have the same modifications as i do. I know that is kinda a hit or miss way to go about tuning, so I plan on having the car actually dyno tuned this winter as well, but I am hung up on whether I should do a full dyno tune, or just a WOT tune, the full dyno is about $150 more hence my dilemma.

The car drives fine, nothin really out of the ordinary, except for some cam surge down low and a very very slight vibration, but I think it is normal
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 11:16 AM
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In your sig it says "worked heads". Were the heads dones buy a reputable porter? and did you get flow numbers? I had a set of heads done a few years ago by a supposed cylinder head genius, did all kinds of R&D for ford and GM in the 80's. Definately knew what he was talking about but when it came to porting my heads they turned out like crap. He said 270cfm, they flowed at 230 on two different benches.
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Old Nov 25, 2008 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by ClovisAutoMotion
In your sig it says "worked heads". Were the heads dones buy a reputable porter? and did you get flow numbers? I had a set of heads done a few years ago by a supposed cylinder head genius, did all kinds of R&D for ford and GM in the 80's. Definately knew what he was talking about but when it came to porting my heads they turned out like crap. He said 270cfm, they flowed at 230 on two different benches.
That's a really good point, and honestly I'm not sure. I had to have my heads milled because the moron who had the car before me replaced the head gasket and took a wire wheel to the heads leaving all kinds of divots in them. I took it to a local shop (Romito Racing Engines) and I have heard nothing but good things about his work. He ended up milling the heads enough to take the divots out. while the heads were there I had him port the bowls and do a 5 angle valve job as well as install comp 847 springs and manley valves. Unfortunately i never got a flow sheet from him, so I plan on putting them on a flowbech this winter while the heads are off.
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