98-02 brake conversion?
lol 
12-03-2008, 07:59 PM
#25
The normal LS1 rear disk brakes do slightly outperform the LT1 rear disk brakes in the sense that they do not fade out as quick. The LS1 rear drum type parking brake is 1000% percent better due to a better and far simpler design. The parking brake will easily lock up in just a few clicks with the car moving if desired and requires no critical setup adjustment. The LT1 rear parking brake is crap design and overly complicated and never holds like it should.
The LS1 front brakes outperform the LT1 front brakes 10,000% hands down. I did the full LS1 brake install and have been very happy with the results. Straight up, the LT1 brakes just flat out suck ***.
12-03-2008, 08:37 PM
#26
The LS1 rear brakes are Disk/drum hybrid type. Disk brakes for normal braking and a drum brake for the parking brake. The two do not work in conjunction with each other.
The normal LS1 rear disk brakes do slightly outperform the LT1 rear disk brakes in the sense that they do not fade out as quick. The LS1 rear drum type parking brake is 1000% percent better due to a better and far simpler design. The parking brake will easily lock up in just a few clicks with the car moving if desired and requires no critical setup adjustment. The LT1 rear parking brake is crap design and overly complicated and never holds like it should.
The LS1 front brakes outperform the LT1 front brakes 10,000% hands down. I did the full LS1 brake install and have been very happy with the results. Straight up, the LT1 brakes just flat out suck ***.
The normal LS1 rear disk brakes do slightly outperform the LT1 rear disk brakes in the sense that they do not fade out as quick. The LS1 rear drum type parking brake is 1000% percent better due to a better and far simpler design. The parking brake will easily lock up in just a few clicks with the car moving if desired and requires no critical setup adjustment. The LT1 rear parking brake is crap design and overly complicated and never holds like it should.
The LS1 front brakes outperform the LT1 front brakes 10,000% hands down. I did the full LS1 brake install and have been very happy with the results. Straight up, the LT1 brakes just flat out suck ***.
12-03-2008, 09:45 PM
#30
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I swapped to the LS1 rear brakes, souly because my LT1 calipers were junked out, and started to stick at times (really sucked for track times!)
when I paid $60 bucks for all 4 calipers, brackets, backing plates, 2 spindles w/ 35k mile hubs, and a set of front slotted/cross-drilled rotors, I really couldn't pass it up. even more so, I sold the stock LT1 rear brakes without rotors for $150! lol....
anyone got a pass. side LS1 spindle they wanna sell for dirt? mine had a slight interference problem with a ditch, and snapped the casting where the tie-rod end bolts up.
when I paid $60 bucks for all 4 calipers, brackets, backing plates, 2 spindles w/ 35k mile hubs, and a set of front slotted/cross-drilled rotors, I really couldn't pass it up. even more so, I sold the stock LT1 rear brakes without rotors for $150! lol....
anyone got a pass. side LS1 spindle they wanna sell for dirt? mine had a slight interference problem with a ditch, and snapped the casting where the tie-rod end bolts up.
12-03-2008, 10:42 PM
#31
I still have my LT1 Rear Brakes, they clear the Drag Lites better..
There is an adjustment on them to adjust the Parking Brake, I need to do it to mine when I get back. My Dad did it to his, and he said it was like night and day difference, and also it adjusted the normal Brakes too.
There is an adjustment on them to adjust the Parking Brake, I need to do it to mine when I get back. My Dad did it to his, and he said it was like night and day difference, and also it adjusted the normal Brakes too.
12-04-2008, 12:12 PM
#32
The adjustment for LT1 parking brake is a set screw that re-positions the near perpendicular plate that grabs the piston shaft in order to push it out. This adjustment is hyper critical to have set properly or the piston slips within the perpendicular grab plate.
I found that even when mine were adjusted correctly, as a result of normal wear on the piston shaft getting buffed and polished and there by less grippy, it would still slip a bit which resulted in sub-par holding power when the parking brake was applied.
The ideal thing to do is to rough up the piston shaft as to allow the perpendicular plate to better grab and hold the piston shaft.
I found that even when mine were adjusted correctly, as a result of normal wear on the piston shaft getting buffed and polished and there by less grippy, it would still slip a bit which resulted in sub-par holding power when the parking brake was applied.
The ideal thing to do is to rough up the piston shaft as to allow the perpendicular plate to better grab and hold the piston shaft.
12-05-2008, 09:05 PM
#34
well you need a pair of side cutter's 15 mm wrench or socket 3/4 wrench or socket and 15/16 wrench or socket. 12 mm for brake line. something to remove the rubber hose retention clip and a big f*ckin hammer. I think that about covers it a (jack and electric impact helps) Since i just did this today still fresh in my mind. and a 10 mm wrench for bleeder screws
12-06-2008, 11:46 AM
#38
Launching!
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