LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Griffin Radiator for stand up

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Old Dec 4, 2008 | 11:15 AM
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Default Griffin Radiator for stand up

how many of you guys have ditched your a/c and put a griffin radiator in for a stand up instead of the stock angled one? I know a bunch of the LS1 guys have done them so just curious if its the same process and part numbers for our cars?
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by daves94formula
just curious if its the same process and part numbers for our cars?
Yup, search the forced induction forum for "vertical radiator". I'm waiting on my welder to free up some time to get mine installed.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 08:05 PM
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I have a vertical Aluminum after market radiator ( can't remember the brand) with my LT1, but it isn't in a F body. Be careful with Griffin, I put one in my Chevelle brand new from Summit. I filled it up and it started leaking, never even finished filling the system. They had a large pinhole in a weld on one of the tanks, Summit took care of me, but when I talked to Griffin they acted concerned, but it didn't seem sincere or even like a big deal that it obviously hadn't been leak tested let alone pressure tested yet it was signed off with initials as having been done.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 11:45 PM
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A friend and I did both of our cars around the same time. We both used griffin for our radiators. No problems at all. TONS of space under the hood.
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by crookedbowtie
I have a vertical Aluminum after market radiator ( can't remember the brand) with my LT1, but it isn't in a F body. Be careful with Griffin, I put one in my Chevelle brand new from Summit. I filled it up and it started leaking, never even finished filling the system. They had a large pinhole in a weld on one of the tanks, Summit took care of me, but when I talked to Griffin they acted concerned, but it didn't seem sincere or even like a big deal that it obviously hadn't been leak tested let alone pressure tested yet it was signed off with initials as having been done.
ya thats odd, i bought one for my 67 GTO, no problem at all, and cheap as hell so no complaints here at all

Quick question- if you convert to a stand up radiator, is there not enough room for the condenser anymore? i dont understand why you cant have A/C still
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Old Dec 5, 2008 | 11:58 PM
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Paul like always that looks badass
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 12:21 AM
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Thanks Ben!

Now post some pics of yours...
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 11:59 AM
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I just must have not been the lucky one and it was built on Friday the thirteenth or something. My buddy has one without a problem, and I am running the replacement still. I will tell you that I won't ever buy one again though, the price isn't worth the time or hassle. I am pretty sore because it kept me from firing up a fresh motor for almost a week, not to mention draining the coolant with no radiator petcock. Why don't after market radiators have a darn petcock? I used a used AFCO ($50)with my LT1/4runner conversion and am happy with it. Price is just about the same as Griffin for a new one though, but a much nicer product.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 12:37 PM
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Mine has a petcock. I know I called griffin and ordered my radiator custom with AN fittings on monday and it was at my door thursday. Fit was just like I wanted and it had no leaks.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 02:59 PM
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what did you do about the coolant sensor on your radiator tapout?
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 03:57 PM
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Hope you don't mind me chiming in, but the coolant sensor is not really needed. The only thing is does is detect low coolant (low coolant light), the sensor in the pump still detects coolant temp activity.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 04:53 PM
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Yea what Ben said. Those wires are neatly tucked out of the way lol.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by 67goatman455
Quick question- if you convert to a stand up radiator, is there not enough room for the condenser anymore? i dont understand why you cant have A/C still
If you stand up the radiator you can still keep the AC condenser in there. Plenty of people have done it.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 08:38 PM
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somebody please make a how to thread on this, like what part # for the radiator and where to cut out the crossmember etc... if you can do this and keep AC what exactly would be the down side?
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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Its actually pretty easy to do. Ive thought about making the weld in peice for the radiator support and selling them. Theres just to many options and variables to do a "whole" kit. Either way some welding would be required. Ben and I used AN fittings on the radiators and the water pump. We bought weld on bungs and had them tigged to the water pump and t-stat housing. I also had griffin put a -6 an for the steam line and did that all in braided. I used -16 for the main coolant hoses.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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uh for us retarded kids how bout a version of this that just fits up to the stock type hoses, perhaps a bit longer upper one but otherwise more bolt on than all this AN-16 stuff?
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:13 PM
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Thats what I meant by to many variables. The first one we did on Bens car was going to use rubber hose. It was real difficult to find hoses to work. We was going to end up having to use the universal flex hose and it really looked like crap. So he sent his back and had them put the AN stuff on it. His car was like a guinea pig, mine went really smooth.
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:30 PM
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How much cooler, do they run, with the radiator straight up, rather than at an angle?

T/A Kid- Did talk to your buddy about working on a dash, for me? (like yours )
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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Really didnt notice any difference in cooling. Runs right where it did before. Its more about all the room you gain under the hood. I can do opti changes without getting underneath the car, and I seem to be changing alot of optis lol.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dmw5gfmTV1c
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Old Dec 6, 2008 | 09:47 PM
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I almost finished mine yesterday all it needs is brackets to hold it down, its a really easy job. I opted to leave the core support just cut it for the radiator and then notched out where the cap is going. I did it with only a cutoff wheel and grinder. All I have to do is make some brackets to help hold it in place. But I'd say it can be done without a welder just depends on how you want to do it.
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