Exactly. Aside from all of the tech talk. Doing research is the key, which means searching. I gather research based on searches. Some people would rather go down easy street and have everybody hold their hand instead of clicking their lazy finger. It is one thing to start a post if your search was unsuccessful, but being lazy and being a dick...

 

so wait a minute here, you guys ****** with me cause i told him to search or you digin' on him?

Eaither way, gm847 dumdumdum!! lol

 

How was I being a dick?

 

Where were you shifting!?

 

I'd just leave it in "Drive" and it would shift at about 6000 rpm. I did not want to spin it anymore than that having the miles that were on it at that time.

 

Did you have a tune on it? They should have adjusted the shift points for that cam

 

Exactly...lots of that going around here. Make sure you guys go trade in your longtubes for some 1 5/8 mids too. Anyone remember those days? People claiming you'll go faster with mids because of the low end torque small primaries gave you. Same lies different subject.

-Dutsin-

 

Sorry to disappoint you, but what do you want me to do apologize? I got what I said from researching the net in the past. Even the specs are misleading as far as shift points. I don't have money to put the cam in and do a test run for you, and if i did I wouldn't because I have a different cam. The moral of the post is not to be a dumb *** and do PLENTY of research, instead of having everybody tell you what you need. Its the net, and this has not been my first mistake.

 

I see a few things wrong with this post...first it was stated that the car was stock but no info about whether it was a4 or m6 etc. Is there any mods at all, like exhuast? If not I wouldn't even think about putting this cam in. What are your goals for the car? If your runnin an a4 you will most definately need a healthy stall so you won't have surging and a very good tune, most likely a dyno tune. Be sure to factor those costs in as well. Honestly you could prolly have better results with a smaller cam, but if you expect future supporting mods than I might think this choice is justified. The cams performance is contingent on the flow in and out of the motor. Just to let you know that in my fully built 383 with 12:4:1 and alchy I run a slighty smaller cam than this, sure I could go a lot bigger but I'd rather have loads of low end torque than alil more high end hp

 

Ah. That's why it ran "bad." Your car was nowhere near setup for that cam.

 

The GM847 is a great cam that has posted impressive results numerous times. Yes it will work on a stock LT1 motor. For most people its not the best choice for a stock headed/block car. More so on the block because the rpm's that the cam typically wants to see is a little high for being safe. The heads definetly limit the full potential of the GM847 but that doesn't mean it won't work well with stock heads. If/When the heads are ported the cam would even work better. I would say its not great for most because mainly three things; high rpm rev's, does not pass emissions, drivability in most cases isn't great in the low end. I think its great however for the sound it produces and the numbers as well as track times it has produced. For a daily driver that someone wants to keep a comfortable driver I wouldn't get this cam but for someone who really wants to squeeze the most of what they can out of their LT1 its a decent cam to go with. It will outperform smaller off the-shelf cams but only if shifted where it needs to be. Some people get away shifting it at 6400ish and others up to 6700ish with the stock heads. If your emissions do not matter and you want the car to really rip and you have enough gear/stall then its a good choice just be careful with the block because the duration is pretty hefty for it.

I've been in my share of cammed LT1's and have ran two different cams in mine. IMO I would never personally go above mid to late 220's on the intake duration with a 350 cube LTx because I did not like the ways some of the cars acted with more duration than that. Cam surge can get annoying after awhile but I did love the power some of the cams had uptop but remember that is just my opinion. However, it all comes down to what YOU want from the car to determine whether its a good choice or not, may be the best choice out there or the worst.

 

Did I say anything about you? Just relax. The reason you said what you said was due to all the horrible information I am talking about. You have to get out there and sort through the crap, I've been doing it for years. It's the same on every website, diesel, LS1, LT1, everything. But somehow on here people are asking about buying RV towing cams and crap for "more low end". Same thing happened years ago with shorties vs mids vs longtubes. Lot's of guys who eventually got proven wrong, said we should be using shorties and mids for more low end. Guess what? Once your converter flashes or you get out of 1st gear, you dont need your freaking low end to win races. That's why with an automatic you need to match the converter stall speed and cam.

Main point is there are too many people just rehashing stuff they read from somewhere else on the internet. Try not to do that. If you want to pass information on that you cant prove or know for sure, just say "I read that..." or "I hear...". Keeps you from getting into fights or looking uninformed. I'll admit it, I did it a few times in my early years, and I ended up getting the same kinda talk I've giving you right now.

The top of the power band for the CC306 is listed as 5800rpm. It's not, neither is 6800 for the GM847. Me personally, I would never go below a CC306 in a stock headed car unless I didnt intend on racing. Although, some people dont need or want that. I do. I wish I would have run a GM847 with stock heads. I've never had cam surge, or any other negative effects. I've been reving all the way to 7000rpm alot for almost 2 years now. Just make sure you have the oil pressure to do it and you'll be fine. Bearing are bearings, aftermarket or not, most of the time lack of lubrication is what kills you. Guys stop being afraid of over revving these motors. If you cant pay to play just stick an RV cam in there and lose some races.

Pretty good post right above mine too.

No hard feelings to anyone, just trying to pass on some experience

-Dustin-

 

I understand what your trying to say. I have never ran the 847, but just read about it, and should put a big fat I HEARD in front of all of it. LOL All in all the cam seems like a good off the shelf cam.

 

They are alot of good of the shelf cams, guys have run the supposed "old crappy" CC306 into the 9's. Hell I might take mine there pretty soon. If Uncle Sam gives me some time to work on it.

Glad I didnt **** everyone off too much.

-Dustin-

 

My car with the 847 pulls good in OD from 1500 rpms on up with 3.42 gears. I didn't think it would from reading about it for years on the internet, so I was really surprised when I drove it around for the first time! Maybe it's the added compression?

 

do u have stock heads

 

[QUOTE=blackz93;10622184 Maybe it's the added compression? [/QUOTE]

You got it!! Just like matching all the rest for a good combo, compression is in those factors as well!!

 

Yes.


I'm sure it helps the low end torque.

 

im glad someone has the ***** to speak up and shut some people up. big cams are for big boys who want to go fast. they can and do work well when set up properly. I can't wait to hit the track with my car. my cam is like a GM847 on steroids. I won't settle for anything less than an 11.9 with essentially stock (mild port cleanup, valve job) heads. I have all kinds of people telling me I will lose power with a cam this big. seriously, I don't know where people get their information.....

 

BUT ITS ON THE INTERNET SO IT MUST BE TRUE!!! BIG CAMS MAKE YOU SLOWER!! This comin from the same person who runs electric superchargers!