electric pump or standard
electric pump or standard I have done the searches for this topic and i do not want to start all kinds of arguements on flow #'s and all that garbage. Im just asking on my car that i drive a grand total of 2000 miles a year if a ewp would be better for me.. I rarely take the car to the strip and mainly just cruise around with a few street races every now and then. Just wondered if electric would be the way to go on my setup
thanks guys
thanks guys
On my set up I got 9-10 rwhp across the tested rpm range with the Meziere...I was never able to just test just that mod on the strip because I made a few other changes before I went racing...So far its been a good mod. I only drive about 4-5000 miles a year and it stays fairly cool. Because of the nature of the electric motor running at a constant speed it stays cooler at idle in traffic than my old mechanical, but runs a bit warmer at cruise...
--Alan
--Alan
I've looked at this same issue recently myself, here's what I decided: Yes you can get a marginal HP gain with the Electric, however what I look for is what is going to be the thing that puts the car down on the side of some highway in the middle of nowwhere and then how does it get repaired, yes we would all hope that it doesn't happen but lets say ur electic does shut down on you and ur in the middle of the powertour or something else not down the street from where u live, provided you even catch this yourself and don't get into a overheated situation, you then get towed somewhere and try to deal with whatever backyardigan mechanic your faced with, who may have no idea of such parts, or how to get then repaired, so then what you wait 2-5 days for UPS to get a new one to you whereever u are and hope they put in on right? My thought is the regular pump is very well know at this point and available reman anywhere for less than $100.00. If you are just a local drag racer type guy I'd say OK esp since you get a bit more coolin effect as its sitting waiting to state but otherwise I say use the stock part, hell get a spare and leave it in the spare tire well right, you still have $$ to spare... Ideally we'd all carry this, plus spare opti, wires, accesory belt and a full metric tool kit right?
I would say it doesn't matter for you one way or the other. Switching to electric is for someone looking for every little bit they can or a drag racer that wants to cool the car without having to run it. Since you aren't doing either don't waste your time.
I have done the searches for this topic and i do not want to start all kinds of arguements on flow #'s and all that garbage. Im just asking on my car that i drive a grand total of 2000 miles a year if a ewp would be better for me.. I rarely take the car to the strip and mainly just cruise around with a few street races every now and then. Just wondered if electric would be the way to go on my setup
thanks guys
thanks guys
I'm looking into these also, how do you wire them up? just on a switch and u have to flip the switch everytime u drive or what? I like the fact that i could cool the car without it running....
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O.K., based on the premise that constant versus variable flow numbers are not an issue:
1) If it fails while you are on the road, all the shipping companies have overnight by 10 a.m. the next morning shipping, so that should not be considered an issue.
2) If your only goal is horsepower increase, You are looking at around $250-300 or so, given that you will also need a relay and should install an LED that will tell you if it fails (or is running, however you wish to connect it). That works out to $25-30 per horsepower. Is it worth it to you? Only you know that answer.
3) It removes the main reason for Opti failure; the waterpump seal failing and dousing the Opti with coolant. The rear hole is plugged with a freeze plug and should never leak. This is why I went electric. I hate replacing the Opti, it is nothing less than a supreme PITA, as well as being expensive.
Just some food for thought. Best of luck with your decision.
1) If it fails while you are on the road, all the shipping companies have overnight by 10 a.m. the next morning shipping, so that should not be considered an issue.
2) If your only goal is horsepower increase, You are looking at around $250-300 or so, given that you will also need a relay and should install an LED that will tell you if it fails (or is running, however you wish to connect it). That works out to $25-30 per horsepower. Is it worth it to you? Only you know that answer.
3) It removes the main reason for Opti failure; the waterpump seal failing and dousing the Opti with coolant. The rear hole is plugged with a freeze plug and should never leak. This is why I went electric. I hate replacing the Opti, it is nothing less than a supreme PITA, as well as being expensive.
Just some food for thought. Best of luck with your decision.
Pretty much what puck said about electrics going out, get a relayed warning system, have a spare motor - it's a 5 min. change and then you bleed the system and you're on your way.
I also noticed that my cruising temps did not rise, even though on paper they technically should have. I guess the air damn works well enough to compensate unless you are road racing or at extended periods of high rpms.