LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

longtube hitting

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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 02:26 PM
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Default longtube hitting

Is anyone else on here having trouble with their PaceSetter true dual set up hitting the underside of the drivers seat. I was runnin eibach sportlines but have since raised my 95 up with some slps helped all little. any recommendations?? or opinions to ease the pounding of my floor board??
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 02:30 PM
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I dont think the springs make a difference unless its hitting the ground. A new motor mount might help. I have also hear the y-pipes dont fit very good either and bang the floor wich requires cutting and rewelding
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 02:37 PM
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thought the springs would distance the body with the raise didnt much if any at all. i was thinking of crushing the exhaust pipe down but dont know what effects the restriction willl make. should i bang at the floor pan any ??
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 02:40 PM
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Pics would be nice. Can you just take off the TDs and bend it slightly away then reinstall???
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 04:24 PM
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this is all i could find hope it helps for some insight
Attached Thumbnails longtube hitting-root-problem.jpg  
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 04:48 PM
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So is it the header or the TDs when you put them on???
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 05:00 PM
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the piping on the TD
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 05:07 PM
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maybe a new p s motor mount?
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 06:50 PM
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I had this problem. I got some header wrap and rolled it up and zip tied it in between the header and the car. No more bang!
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 08:06 PM
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your going to have to dent the top of the pipe to clear the crossmember. that how the off road y-pipe's come. they are dented on top to clear that side.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 08:07 PM
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Yeah that'd be the sign of a worn rubber motor mount. Get a nice set of poly mounts put in and it will fix it.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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I had the same problem. New mounts can actually raise the motor/Trans higher and bring the exaust closer to the floor. Make sure someone has not added a spacer under the trans.mount. I took my y pipe off, made 2 small cuts in the floor support, pounded up the support for clearance then rewelded the cuts and ground off the excess. Looks like it was built that way. Protect the fuel lines before welding in that area.
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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well thanks guys for the info. sounds like the motor mounts are the next step. i want to avoid cutting or hammering into the body if i can. the cushion idea was also good just didnt know what to put between there , thanks pyro. here we go again. the mounts shouldnt be too hard to put on right ..>?
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Badazz 97 TA
your going to have to dent the top of the pipe to clear the crossmember. that how the off road y-pipe's come. they are dented on top to clear that side.
You can try Motor mounts, But like ^^^he say... look at the ORYs... they come flatened.. But I wouldnt recommend goin at it with a hammer, Just wrap the pipe with header wrap like he said. But if you want it to look clean, just bend it...

I had mine custom built from my headers to my Catback and I ONLY hear it when I WOT! And its not even a rattle, its just the sound of pipe sitting on the body...
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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theres about 3 things you can do to solve this...Mine was doing theEXACT same thing...you can take it to a muffler shop and have them crimp the pipe right there so you have more clearance with it, you can get solid mounts, or you can get a peice of heat wrap like you wrap headers with and roll up a piece, pry your y pipe down some and wedge it in there...it will vibrate a little but the knocking n **** will stop..sorry about the book lol
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:40 PM
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and crushing the pipe some wont effect your exhaust flow from what im told....i definitely couldnt tell a difference with mine
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Old Dec 16, 2008 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LtTransAm91
and crushing the pipe some wont effect your exhaust flow from what im told....i definitely couldnt tell a difference with mine
Just keep it smooth... nothing aggresive, obviously
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 01:18 AM
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Originally Posted by LT_WON
this is all i could find hope it helps for some insight
I cut that piece along both sides of pipe and then beat it flat. another option is to cut it out then invert and weld it back in. I dont know how much it affects the sturctual strength. I have SFC so I hope that helps it some. Then I used header wrap to wrap the fuel lines since they're less than an inch away. Been like that for 1.5 with no problems.
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 11:29 AM
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Take a big *** C-clamp and smash the pipe a bit.
Since there are no pics of the TDs I didnt even think about the flat spot on my y-pipe LOL!
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Old Dec 17, 2008 | 01:05 PM
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I have had this problem on both of my f-body's. both times I was using a ORY. I cut a piece of radiator hose and screwed it up in the place where the Y pipe hit on my LS1 car, on my LT1 car the noise went away when I put on my dual exhaust
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