Pacesetter Longtube Headers
Eibach Lowering Springs
Grantelli Intake Elbow
B&M Ripper Short Throw-$160
Motive 4.10 Gears
Fast Toys Ported MAF Ends
Edlebrock 52MM Throttle Body
Hypertech 160 Degree Thermostat
MAC Subframe Connectors
Spec Stage 1 Clutch
What kind of horsepower would I be looking at and what kind of 1/4 times? The car has a K&N CAI and Magnaflow Catback on it right now. Also can I use the stock Y pipe with the long tubes or do I need a new one?
Edit- Pascetter Off Road Y Pipe

 

You will need a different y-pipe.

 

Ok thanks.

 

ditch the maf thing and the throttle body. you wont see noticeable gains with those. save yo money for something else, like more suspension

 

As for the mod list find out what your goal is for the car. Is it daily driven or a weekend warrior. Buy parts that support the power you want make. I would start with the suspension and then move towards making power. Keeps you from down time and spending money to fix parts that other parts broke.

 

The car will be daily driven and I want it to make decent power. I would like it to be faster than my previous LT1 which had full exhaust and intake. I have a seat of lower control arms sitting in my garage that will be going on the car soon also.

 

I'd skip the pacesetters and get the LPP ones. They're stainless, stepped, and only slightly more.

Skip the maf ends

On the TB get one of the Ebay ones for $160. They'll also give you a $40 rebate if you send them your stock one.

BMR has subframe connectors on sale now if you check the sponsor sale section.

If your clutch isn't messed up I would probably leave it.

EDIT: If you're serious about performance I'd skip the lowering springs. Look for a set of QA1 adjustable coil overs or Strange shocks.

 

i would personally not go with the eibachs, i rode in cars with all types of springs and they were the worst for me. i went with the hotchkis and i love them, the stranos feel great as well

 

Clutch would probably be one of the last mods I would do. I'm just a poor high school student so this is going to take a while. Thanks for the advice.

 

if i were u id scratch off the tb and maf stuff and add a torque arm and some DR and with that u should be deep into the 13s add 1.6rr and a few more goodies and u might get 12s if i were u i would just spray it lol. o and id go stage 2 on the clutch

 

1.) I would ditch the Eibach springs for Strano's. You will find alot of great feedback on them in the suspension section they are the best f-body spring period.
2.) No need more MAF ends
3.) No need for a TB yet, stocker is good for over 400hp.
4.) I would not buy MAC Subframes, buy either UMI or BMR or the like because they are extremely popular and are proven time and time again to fit great and perform.


Since you said you have LCA's I would ditch the MAF ends and TB for an adjustable panhard and LCA relocation brackets. The panhard will center the rear after being lowered and the relocation brackets will lower the LCA angle to make up for the loss geometry from being lowered. A lowered car should not go without those 2 items.

 

then def forget the clutch until its screaming at u lik mine is

 

Agree on the Eibachs...I'm running them and their not bad but I would have rather gone Strano. MAF...no need. I'm running a stock ported one but wouldn't spend the money on one if that's what you were planning on doing.
UMI subframes all the way...nice stuff. I would look into the 3-point spider web style.

 

o and throw a set of plug wires and maybe a new coil in that list i no u wouldnt think anythig of them but they made a difference

 

Pacesetter Longtube Headers
Strano Lowering Springs
Grantelli Intake Elbow
B&M Ripper Short Throw
Motive 4.10 Gears
Hypertech 160 Degree Thermostat
UMI 3 Point Subframe Connectors
Pasecetter Off Road Y Pipe
RPM LCA Relocation Brackets
Hotchkis Adjustable Panhard Bar
Ok I made a few adjustments to the list. Let me know what you think. Also the car won't see to much track action because my dad and I are building a car for that. I'm looking for 300 whp and decent handling.

 

Is it a A4 or M6? I would buy all the suspension (panhard bar/LCA'S) from UMI and get it all at once from the same place..

 

i know you said you are on a buget, but UMI has all parts % 20 off right now hell of a deal

 

Its an M6. Its all going to bought over a span of time. I pick up the car tomorrow. I'm selling a few things on ebay and I start my job 1st of January. So its going to be a couple weeks before I get anything. I'm just trying to get it planned out.

 

4.10 will be nice since it's a M6...

Just like djjab57 said, UMI has some good deals going on. Good time to buy! Good luck w/ your build

 

Vortech and Trickflow will work for elbows too;if you want that silver look. Just get whichever you find used and cheap(ebay or on here they sometimes go for $50 shipped)(do the TB bypass $3-$9 and add an airfoil $15-$25 if you don't put the TB on it now.) Get some cleaning oil for your filter if it needs it and even if it doesn't.

GO with LPP headers and ORY; there is a video on youtube of a LPP/magnaflow trans am lt1. Only $500 on ebay to get the ORY(catless y-pipe) and headers shipped to your door. Don't forget stage 8 or ARP bolts, 02 sensors and extensions, new plugs and wires, and better gaskets

I have heard good things about both B&M and Pro 5.0 shifters(notchier and shortest throw).

If you have the cash, save, up for a 9" rearend and do the gears with it at the same time and save some money because you will need a new rear one day if you launch hard or add enough power.

Don't know much about it, but a lot of guys love the ls1 driveshaft mod and ls1 brakes. They aren't that expensive and not too hard, in fact some say they are easy mods.

I have heard the best things about BBK throttle bodies and why not upgrade to a 58mm for better flow? You will need a bigger one to match any future mods you do anyways. Look into a lloyd elliot ported intake mani for $200 + shipping to match your TB.

Clutch stages are sometimes crap...be careful and research it. some companies just throw a number in front of a clutch to make it sound good like Spec 96 MEGA CLUTCH!!

Mail order tune. Cant forget this. research. usually start around $125

YOu would probably be in the 290-310 rwhp, but I am no numbers expert...I would think that would put you into the low 13s and maybe 12s on slicks/drag radials....but again, I am not expert.

Good luck and Happy Holidays.