Would cast be ok or do I need forged?
Maybe go with their budget 355 setup that reuses the stock crank it is better than the aftermarket cast cranks and probably as good as many of the chinese forged cranks.
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Go with a reputable source so you are confident the assembly is balanced correctly, saving rebalancing costs.
You could save on assembly and installation costs if you could do some or most of the work yourself.
I had my head and intake work done by a pro with 20+ years experience, and he did an excellent job for a very reasonable price. Send me a PM if you want more info.
Last edited by koolaid_kid; Dec 20, 2008 at 02:45 PM.
do it right the first time. you spend how much on a set of heads, and cam and valve train. why skimp on the most important part.. also think about using a 4 bolt block or spaying the main caps...
aaron
What data is there that says 2-bolts wont hold up to all the NA power he will ever ask it too? I know a guy running a best of 10.5 NA on a 2-bolt block in an Impala, been running 10s NA on it for a few years now.
Again the chinese cast cranks are weaker than stock.
You want a sucessful build you are going to have to sort out what is bench racing "info" and what is real data. Sad thing is you come somewhere like this and you will recieve more bench racing input than real data.
Once you look at the COMPLETE picture, the Compstar Speedpacks like AI offers are really a good value, an Eagle kit with crappy balance is just a couple hundred less but by the time you rebalance it the cost is the same and the quality is not even close to comparable to the Compstar.
Basically if you can't do the Compstar, consider a stock crank 355, if you can't do that then keep the stock shortblock. Eagle while popular is not that good, if you must use chinese cast and machined stuff at least use Scat.
Basically if you can't do the Compstar, consider a stock crank 355, if you can't do that then keep the stock shortblock. Eagle while popular is not that good, if you must use chinese cast and machined stuff at least use Scat.
Yes Eagle has worked for some guys, especially on loose bearing race engines, other guys have it self destruct in short order on the street. Too many dimensional issues. If a rod journal is tapered tight street clearances will have a problem with it long before a loose race motor will.
You have an M6, might as well call Eagle and ask if they ever startd making the pilot bushing bore he right size, they did not used too and guys had to call them to get the special bandaid bushing Eagle had to make to fit their badly machined cranks. Had a batch get out with scratched thrust surfaces that took out motors with just a few thousand miles too.
I am sure it shocks you to hear such but that is because marketing gets confused with quality these days and Eagle markets more heavily than anyone.
Everything about the Compstar kits is better and the price difference is pretty small once you consider the completeness and the overall cost of a project like this. It is forged overseas and machined by Callies here in the USA so you get to feel good about keeping some of your money here too.
If you go chinese machined at least go Scat.
-stock crank
-Scat part #2-ICR6000-7/16 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...25&CtgID=21452
-Mahle Piston's & rings part # SBC250030F05 http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...D=16076&CtgID=
-Clevite P-series rod bearings # CB-663P
-Clevite P-series main bearings # MS909P http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rod-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-ARP main bolts for strength http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ARP-M...QQcmdZViewItem
-balance the engine $150-$200
-Zero deck your block $120-$175
-Torque plate hone the block (est. $15 per cylinder)
This should net you 11.17:1 compression with a 58cc head and a 4.060" bore head gasket with a .040" compressed thickness.






