electric fan question
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 660
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96capricemgr is correct and posted the same information that I was going to.
Your car is warming up to the temperature that the thermostat is allowing. Judging by the fact your car only warms up to 170ish and you had the fan temps reprogrammed, I'll go out on a limb and guess you have a 160 thermostat. The fans only provide airflow over the radiator when the car isn't in motion. They will not prevent the car from heating up, regardless of who said so. Even with fans full blast, it will heat up to the same temperature it would when driving, due to the thermostat. If you disagree, then you misunderstand how the cooling system (mainly the thermostat) works.
Your heater may not be working well at your normal operating temperature due to your heater core being "fouled." This is when there is a buildup developed on the heat trasfer surface in your heater core. This buildup prevents proper heat transfer from the coolant to the air. Your heater core will probably work much better if you backflush the coolant side, to remove most of the buildup. With a properly flushed heater core, I had no problems with my heating when running around 170 degrees dash temp.
As for the fans running constantly, your answer is more than likely from any number of DTC codes that is thrown. Your 95 will not care about a lack of catalytic converter (unless it's one of a few 95 california CARB cars). Did you happen to remove any of the emissions equipment with the header install, such as the AIR or EGR system?
Regardless, find out the DTC code and you will probably find your answer.
Your car is warming up to the temperature that the thermostat is allowing. Judging by the fact your car only warms up to 170ish and you had the fan temps reprogrammed, I'll go out on a limb and guess you have a 160 thermostat. The fans only provide airflow over the radiator when the car isn't in motion. They will not prevent the car from heating up, regardless of who said so. Even with fans full blast, it will heat up to the same temperature it would when driving, due to the thermostat. If you disagree, then you misunderstand how the cooling system (mainly the thermostat) works.
Your heater may not be working well at your normal operating temperature due to your heater core being "fouled." This is when there is a buildup developed on the heat trasfer surface in your heater core. This buildup prevents proper heat transfer from the coolant to the air. Your heater core will probably work much better if you backflush the coolant side, to remove most of the buildup. With a properly flushed heater core, I had no problems with my heating when running around 170 degrees dash temp.
As for the fans running constantly, your answer is more than likely from any number of DTC codes that is thrown. Your 95 will not care about a lack of catalytic converter (unless it's one of a few 95 california CARB cars). Did you happen to remove any of the emissions equipment with the header install, such as the AIR or EGR system?
Regardless, find out the DTC code and you will probably find your answer.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 660
Likes: 0
I was pretty confident what the problem was earlier, just wanted to verify. Your fan problem will not go away until you tune out the emissions code(s).
I would still suggest to backflush the heater core and see if that helps out your heating problem. Your fan problem is not your heating problem, and more than likely with that AIR code, the SES is cycling on and off (fans as well) between when you are stopped and when you are driving. Most emissions codes for AIR and EGR will clear themselves when the emission system is not in use while driving. If your SES is clearing after you've started accelerating from a stop, then your fans have turned off as well unless called for by the PCM.
If your dash temp is reading what you claim, then either the indication is off, or your thermostat is opening early. The backflush is easy enough, so try that first. If that doens't do it, you may need to replace the thermostat to get you back in the correct temperature range. The thermostat shouldn't be your heating problem though, as 170 is plenty to get some good heat going.
I would still suggest to backflush the heater core and see if that helps out your heating problem. Your fan problem is not your heating problem, and more than likely with that AIR code, the SES is cycling on and off (fans as well) between when you are stopped and when you are driving. Most emissions codes for AIR and EGR will clear themselves when the emission system is not in use while driving. If your SES is clearing after you've started accelerating from a stop, then your fans have turned off as well unless called for by the PCM.
If your dash temp is reading what you claim, then either the indication is off, or your thermostat is opening early. The backflush is easy enough, so try that first. If that doens't do it, you may need to replace the thermostat to get you back in the correct temperature range. The thermostat shouldn't be your heating problem though, as 170 is plenty to get some good heat going.
Dude, my **** recently did the same thing minus the fan problem. My heater wouldn't blow WARM until it was like 210. That was even if it was like 70* outside and the fans turned off sitting idling. Back flushed the heater core and now my heat starts working at about 165*. It is nice, and it only has to run for about 6-8 minutes to be warm enough to get in and leave. Leather seats & cold weather suck. Anyways try that, took all of like 5 minutes. Worth a shot, if that doesn't do the trick swap thermostats. Also only a 5 minutes job. Good luck.
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