Fan issue
Fan issue I've got a manual fit kit but as of late both fans are coming on at the same time. Can't remember what kit I have but I believe it's a Speed Specialty kit. All the fuses check out,..the relays...wiring etc. I even unplugged the low fan and to no avail the high fan will kick in and vice versa. I was thinking somewhere the wires have crossed or have come in contact but I just don't see it. I'd hate to burn both fans up if ever came to that.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
12 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 320
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From: ohio
Here is something to read i took off of SD along time ago and how i got my fans set up. Note mine still come on when car gets to temp but can run them in the pits. Hope this might help you track down your problem.
A: The following instructions are for all mid-1994 to 1995 production models. Slide two wires into the underhood fuse/relay box in the D2 and J2 slots for the #1 fan relay (D) and #3 fan relay (J). Splice them together and run them through a 1 amp fuse. Hook another wire to the ground. Then, with the ignition on, connect the ground wire to the spliced fan wires and both fans come on at high speed. When you're not using the setup, remove the ground wire and tuck it away so you can't see it. The J2 slot is also connected to the F5 slot in the #3 fan relay, so you can use either one, it seems. This essentially provides the ground signal to the relays just like the PCM would when FAN CNTL A10 and FAN CNTL A11 codes are set in the PCM. The relays click when you make the connection, so everything should be working just like if the computer set both codes.
This set-up requires the ignition to be in the "On" position and requires no splicing/cutting of any stock wiring. This works great to cool off your car at the drag strip especially when the engine is off.
1993 and early-1994 cars don't have dual speed fans and therefore have no #3 (J) fan relay. For these cars you can just round a ground to D2 for the primary fan and F5 for the secondary one.
On 1996 and later models, the wiring has changed and the above procedure will blow the fan fuse and turn on the Service Engine Light. So instead, in the underhood fuse box, remove the relay labeled 'F'. Molded into the plastic on the box itself where the relay was is the letter 'F' as well as numbers for each connector. You want to connect the pin labeled '3' with the pin labeled '4'. Note that this is a real feed, and bypasses the relay, so use at least 14 gauge wire. Current is 12A startup, and 8A running. Use a switch that can handle the load.
Solder the wires to the bottom of the fusebox, and put the switch just in front of the box where there already is a unused hole. Black wires and a black switch makes it looks neat. With this setup, you can turn the fan on whenever you want, even with the engine off. Don't forget to put the relay back once you locate the correct connections. Without relay, a code is set and the Service Engine light is lit. If you happen to get a light, it won't go away until you reset the computer. The easiest way to do that is to disconnect the negative battery cable for about 1 minute.
A: The following instructions are for all mid-1994 to 1995 production models. Slide two wires into the underhood fuse/relay box in the D2 and J2 slots for the #1 fan relay (D) and #3 fan relay (J). Splice them together and run them through a 1 amp fuse. Hook another wire to the ground. Then, with the ignition on, connect the ground wire to the spliced fan wires and both fans come on at high speed. When you're not using the setup, remove the ground wire and tuck it away so you can't see it. The J2 slot is also connected to the F5 slot in the #3 fan relay, so you can use either one, it seems. This essentially provides the ground signal to the relays just like the PCM would when FAN CNTL A10 and FAN CNTL A11 codes are set in the PCM. The relays click when you make the connection, so everything should be working just like if the computer set both codes.
This set-up requires the ignition to be in the "On" position and requires no splicing/cutting of any stock wiring. This works great to cool off your car at the drag strip especially when the engine is off.
1993 and early-1994 cars don't have dual speed fans and therefore have no #3 (J) fan relay. For these cars you can just round a ground to D2 for the primary fan and F5 for the secondary one.
On 1996 and later models, the wiring has changed and the above procedure will blow the fan fuse and turn on the Service Engine Light. So instead, in the underhood fuse box, remove the relay labeled 'F'. Molded into the plastic on the box itself where the relay was is the letter 'F' as well as numbers for each connector. You want to connect the pin labeled '3' with the pin labeled '4'. Note that this is a real feed, and bypasses the relay, so use at least 14 gauge wire. Current is 12A startup, and 8A running. Use a switch that can handle the load.
Solder the wires to the bottom of the fusebox, and put the switch just in front of the box where there already is a unused hole. Black wires and a black switch makes it looks neat. With this setup, you can turn the fan on whenever you want, even with the engine off. Don't forget to put the relay back once you locate the correct connections. Without relay, a code is set and the Service Engine light is lit. If you happen to get a light, it won't go away until you reset the computer. The easiest way to do that is to disconnect the negative battery cable for about 1 minute.
