Finally did the LS1 lid conversion
BOSS APPROVED!
01-01-2009 | 10:29 PM
#62
Im curious about the gains people are getting from the FRTA and the SSRA.
I have a lid and FTRA to put on and than im hitting the dyno. I want to see the gains it will make. I think the two of them should be good for 15hp, we'll se tho.
I have a lid and FTRA to put on and than im hitting the dyno. I want to see the gains it will make. I think the two of them should be good for 15hp, we'll se tho.
01-01-2009 | 10:33 PM
#63
I have my Fog Lights out and that whole area cut-out so it's just normal air forced into the Radiator and the Lid when I drive. Technically it may not be Ram-Air, but how much closer can you get.
01-01-2009 | 11:16 PM
#64
LOL, so tell me this does a DYNO give you forced air at speed? NO it does not
does a DYNO give you a time slip NO it does not. so in all actuality racing the car down the track is the truth in what a car is producing.
how many cars have you seen DYNO high and run like crap at the track,i have friends that live on the dyno every change they make they hit the rollers it is a tunning instrument!
personally i do not care what you or anyone else says about the gain many people here have done it with similar results so that now turns the mod gain into a fact!
RAMAIR= path of least resistance,direct also means higher velocity
does a DYNO give you a time slip NO it does not. so in all actuality racing the car down the track is the truth in what a car is producing.
how many cars have you seen DYNO high and run like crap at the track,i have friends that live on the dyno every change they make they hit the rollers it is a tunning instrument!
personally i do not care what you or anyone else says about the gain many people here have done it with similar results so that now turns the mod gain into a fact!
RAMAIR= path of least resistance,direct also means higher velocity
I don't think ANYONE is doubting you, and no one is saying a dyno is perfect. But when comparing the gains between two parts, a dyno is the best tool to do so because you can set the variables to be the same. Unless your car is being driven by a robot, it's hard to do the same on the track.
I give you your props because you seem to know what your talking about, but I think you need to take a chill pill and realize no one is against you - we just demand solid dyno evidence.
01-01-2009 | 11:30 PM
#65
Thread Starter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,153
Likes: 1
From: Monmouth, Illinois
I had a 4mph jump in trap speed at the track today. But, I've had the lid conversion, and tune since my last track appearance. Plus, conditions were way different. The other time I went it was 70+ degree weather in the summer, and this time it was 30 degree weather and no track prep. I was bogging bad from too much traction last time, and was roasting them through 2nd today, and felt it break traction in 3rd. So, way too many variables for me to judge on it. I did have a nice run with a cammed 383 LT1 on the way to the track today though. lol. It was a T/A with a 383 LT1 block and Comp Cams XFI292 cam. But, he was on stock heads, because he fucked something up on his other heads. I was able to keep within 5-6 carlengths on a 70 to around 135 run. lol
01-01-2009 | 11:31 PM
#66
your statement is very good for comparison however the passes were back to back well, it was about 10-15 min apart and my car is very consistant,then again most people here don't bracket race either!
not mad at all but people stress dyno numbers but when you run at the track it is real world.......come on now that has to make sense!
not mad at all but people stress dyno numbers but when you run at the track it is real world.......come on now that has to make sense!
01-01-2009 | 11:48 PM
#67
But two dyno pulls will be a much better tool for comparison than two track pulls. Like I'm sure you've also still made runs where you car lost that extra two tenths that you originally gained - with a dyno, the pulls should stay damn near the same.
01-02-2009 | 12:00 AM
#68
01-02-2009 | 12:14 AM
#69
why the hell are you guys fighting about the power and gains in the 1/4 when you should be thinking about the appearance part of it. having a lid with !AIR and !AC is a phenomenal appearance upgrade for our engine bays. thats why i did it in the first place.
this was before i took the AC and AIR out. its definitely cleaner than a moroso/slp/k&n intake.
this was before i took the AC and AIR out. its definitely cleaner than a moroso/slp/k&n intake.
01-02-2009 | 02:02 AM
#72
01-02-2009 | 02:08 AM
#73
never said anything about running w/o an air filter
the air dam under the core support shoots air up to the filter as well as the intended area(the radiator) so i would classify that as being a ramair yes it may just be a loose terminology but i will be damned if it does not work.....
like i stated earlier,there are people that have ACTUALLY done this mod and have had POSITIVE results above the CAI so if one has not done this mod they are fighting over baseless claims of their own admission..... BTW gm had every opportunity to use the same air induction that was offered on the Lt1 when building the Ls1 but they did not. why? one may ask!!!!!! i will just sit back and wait for the next post about why the lid either sucks in hot air from the radiator or something stupid like that from yet another person that has not any experience with this mod......LOL
the air dam under the core support shoots air up to the filter as well as the intended area(the radiator) so i would classify that as being a ramair yes it may just be a loose terminology but i will be damned if it does not work.....
like i stated earlier,there are people that have ACTUALLY done this mod and have had POSITIVE results above the CAI so if one has not done this mod they are fighting over baseless claims of their own admission..... BTW gm had every opportunity to use the same air induction that was offered on the Lt1 when building the Ls1 but they did not. why? one may ask!!!!!! i will just sit back and wait for the next post about why the lid either sucks in hot air from the radiator or something stupid like that from yet another person that has not any experience with this mod......LOL
What is clamping the lid down to the filter in these setups? Also what kind of filter tray is being used and how is that being secured to the car? A lid laying on top of a filter will adequately filter the air.
And I have done actual testing on what kinds of pressure is generated under the stock radiator support and it was only 2-3 inches of water IIRC and it leveled off and stopped increasing around 80 mph. With no support there will be 0 pressure generated. On my datalogs I was running at about 97-98 KPA at the limiter so my intake setup is pulling very little to no vacuum.
01-02-2009 | 07:17 AM
#74
I used a 4" to 3.5" coupler. It's made by Spectre which is the company who makes the DIY CAI's at the parts stores. The part # is SPT9741. There is an online store that has better prices than parts stores I can PM it to you if you want. The 4" to 3.5" was tight on the TB but it was also cold in my garage so the coupler wasn't very flexable. A few seconds with a heat gun and no problems!
01-02-2009 | 07:26 AM
#75
This is the best pic of the 3.5" to 4" coupler I have now. It's under $20.00 and available in red and blue. I trying to decide if I want to do an LS1 lid or get some 3.5" tubing and put a filter in front of the radiator like the aftermarket vetts. I have a 4" cowl and no AC so no concern about room!
01-02-2009 | 07:54 AM
#76
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 261
Likes: 1
From: ofallon mo
i can't remember the place i got my coupler. its a 4" - 4". i have the place on my computer at work.
my setup uses the same style rear mounts and i made a bracket for the front that holds it almost like stock.
i'm also going to build a lower intake box and it will get air from the fog light area only.
the whole reason i did this mode was an intake i am modifying. it will be around 2" taller than normal and i didn't want to cut up the stock ss air intake and i will not run the cold air set ups.
my setup uses the same style rear mounts and i made a bracket for the front that holds it almost like stock.
i'm also going to build a lower intake box and it will get air from the fog light area only.
the whole reason i did this mode was an intake i am modifying. it will be around 2" taller than normal and i didn't want to cut up the stock ss air intake and i will not run the cold air set ups.
01-02-2009 | 01:14 PM
#77
"i can't remember the place i got my coupler. its a 4" - 4". i have the place on my computer at work."
I thought that 4" couplers were shown to be 2 large on lt1 TB?
"i'm also going to build a lower intake box and it will get air from the fog light area only."
This last part is what I wanna do, if you could run 2 pieces of 3" flexible hose sealed to the back of the fog light opening and then make 2 3" round openings into the bottom of a filter tray you'd have real ram/cold air with little restriction
I thought that 4" couplers were shown to be 2 large on lt1 TB?
"i'm also going to build a lower intake box and it will get air from the fog light area only."
This last part is what I wanna do, if you could run 2 pieces of 3" flexible hose sealed to the back of the fog light opening and then make 2 3" round openings into the bottom of a filter tray you'd have real ram/cold air with little restriction
Last edited by multmigs; 01-03-2009 at 07:03 AM.
01-03-2009 | 10:03 PM
#78
let us know how goes with the lid
