Need suggestions for for cheap 355 build
01-02-2009, 01:57 PM
#21
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you still havent told us about your goals for the car? Or how much n2o you plan to use? How much work are going to go to those heads? You could get much better advice if you gave us some more details.
01-02-2009, 02:05 PM
#22
Domes are BAD BAD news on an LT1, not to mention the head chambers are so small we usually endup looking at a dish for a 383 to keep the compression in check.
Do you realize the stock heads are 54-58cc depending who you ask and you are probably going to mill them a little.
I would not use a $200 cast crank they are a step backwards from stock, it costs too muchto take a chance on their failure, someone just posted pictures in another thread minutes ago.
The Compstar stuff is the best value going.
Do you realize the stock heads are 54-58cc depending who you ask and you are probably going to mill them a little.
I would not use a $200 cast crank they are a step backwards from stock, it costs too muchto take a chance on their failure, someone just posted pictures in another thread minutes ago.
The Compstar stuff is the best value going.
01-02-2009, 05:25 PM
#23
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Pictures aren't that good but heres how the oil pan looks on both sides looks like a blew two connecting rods...i wanted to stay around a $1,000 in parts but i might be able to get some extra money...its a DD car..all my machine work and porting would be done by a friend for dirt cheap...i want my car to be right around 400hp..
01-02-2009, 08:35 PM
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Domes are BAD BAD news on an LT1, not to mention the head chambers are so small we usually endup looking at a dish for a 383 to keep the compression in check.
Do you realize the stock heads are 54-58cc depending who you ask and you are probably going to mill them a little.
I would not use a $200 cast crank they are a step backwards from stock, it costs too muchto take a chance on their failure, someone just posted pictures in another thread minutes ago.
The Compstar stuff is the best value going.
Do you realize the stock heads are 54-58cc depending who you ask and you are probably going to mill them a little.
I would not use a $200 cast crank they are a step backwards from stock, it costs too muchto take a chance on their failure, someone just posted pictures in another thread minutes ago.
The Compstar stuff is the best value going.
01-02-2009, 10:22 PM
#25
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if you do a 355 build stick with the stock crank, dont buy a forged crank, if your gonna buy a forged crank might as well ditch the 355 build and go 383
01-03-2009, 02:02 AM
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your best best is dig into a summit catalauge. there is an entire rebuild kit with speedpro .030 pistons, bearings,gaskets, everything you need except a timing chain ( 20 bucks) if i remember correctly and it cost like less then 700 bucks man..
add block work
get good arp hardware
maybe some little odds and ends
your probably gonna be looking at 1200 or less out the door for a great engine that will hold 500+hp easy so if i was you id go that route.
btw i also havea fully done ready to go 355 and a bare .030 block for cheap if ur interested
add block work
get good arp hardware
maybe some little odds and ends
your probably gonna be looking at 1200 or less out the door for a great engine that will hold 500+hp easy so if i was you id go that route.
btw i also havea fully done ready to go 355 and a bare .030 block for cheap if ur interested
01-03-2009, 08:13 AM
#27
That will be weaker than stock pieces and good machining/assembly should cost $1200.
Your current engine is likely a huge loss, could even be looking at head damage. I would assume the block and crank are junk.
I see three choices a junkyard shortblock, the AI budget 355 kit if you can get your hands on a good stock crank, or a full build with something like the Compstar speedpack.
Don't try and put together than $200 cast crank garbage it only seems cheaper till 200-5000 miles from now the tapered bearing surfaces eat the bearings or the junk crank just snaps.
You managed to blow up the stock parts, I would place the stock crank at at least the quality of the $450 forged chinese stuff and the $250 chinese rods. Pistons are not bad either. A LOT of guys slap together less than stock quality engines, spending thousands on a shortblock where they would have been better off with a $500 junkyard motor. Mistake has been made enogh times, no need for you to repeat it.
Your current engine is likely a huge loss, could even be looking at head damage. I would assume the block and crank are junk.
I see three choices a junkyard shortblock, the AI budget 355 kit if you can get your hands on a good stock crank, or a full build with something like the Compstar speedpack.
Don't try and put together than $200 cast crank garbage it only seems cheaper till 200-5000 miles from now the tapered bearing surfaces eat the bearings or the junk crank just snaps.
You managed to blow up the stock parts, I would place the stock crank at at least the quality of the $450 forged chinese stuff and the $250 chinese rods. Pistons are not bad either. A LOT of guys slap together less than stock quality engines, spending thousands on a shortblock where they would have been better off with a $500 junkyard motor. Mistake has been made enogh times, no need for you to repeat it.
01-03-2009, 04:42 PM
#28
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That will be weaker than stock pieces and good machining/assembly should cost $1200.
Your current engine is likely a huge loss, could even be looking at head damage. I would assume the block and crank are junk.
I see three choices a junkyard shortblock, the AI budget 355 kit if you can get your hands on a good stock crank, or a full build with something like the Compstar speedpack.
Don't try and put together than $200 cast crank garbage it only seems cheaper till 200-5000 miles from now the tapered bearing surfaces eat the bearings or the junk crank just snaps.
You managed to blow up the stock parts, I would place the stock crank at at least the quality of the $450 forged chinese stuff and the $250 chinese rods. Pistons are not bad either. A LOT of guys slap together less than stock quality engines, spending thousands on a shortblock where they would have been better off with a $500 junkyard motor. Mistake has been made enogh times, no need for you to repeat it.
Your current engine is likely a huge loss, could even be looking at head damage. I would assume the block and crank are junk.
I see three choices a junkyard shortblock, the AI budget 355 kit if you can get your hands on a good stock crank, or a full build with something like the Compstar speedpack.
Don't try and put together than $200 cast crank garbage it only seems cheaper till 200-5000 miles from now the tapered bearing surfaces eat the bearings or the junk crank just snaps.
You managed to blow up the stock parts, I would place the stock crank at at least the quality of the $450 forged chinese stuff and the $250 chinese rods. Pistons are not bad either. A LOT of guys slap together less than stock quality engines, spending thousands on a shortblock where they would have been better off with a $500 junkyard motor. Mistake has been made enogh times, no need for you to repeat it.
junkyard routes definitely a feasible alternative but remember you get what you pay for.. you might walk away with a pristine motor with 50k on it or you might get a boat anchor.. ive seen it happen.
you could consider a junkyard engine and just re ring and re bearing it with srp stuff new oil pump stuff like that, it would definitely not cost that much..
