Need suggestions for for cheap 355 build
12-31-2008, 09:35 PM
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Need suggestions for for cheap 355 build I blew my motor last night and now i need suggestions of where to find a cheap Street and Strip Rotating Assemblies to build a 355 im on a tight budget thanks...
12-31-2008, 09:40 PM
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you need to find out what is damaged and what can't be reused and how much of a budget you are on. If you were on a super tight budget than just reuse everything and buy a set of +.030 pistons.
12-31-2008, 10:09 PM
#4
i would do a set of 6"rods,mahle pistons,polish crank turn if you have to,main studs,new hv oil pump,timing chain.of course machine the block for the pistons
i really think you should put new rods in there since it costs just a few bucks more than refurbishing the old rods so in short you should raise your build cost to 1800.00
i really think you should put new rods in there since it costs just a few bucks more than refurbishing the old rods so in short you should raise your build cost to 1800.00
12-31-2008, 10:14 PM
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thanks
12-31-2008, 10:45 PM
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01-01-2009, 09:29 AM
#11
01-01-2009, 05:23 PM
#13
If you are on a mega budget I'd use a cast 3.75 inch stroke crank, eagle forged 6 inch rods, and some forged pistons. You should be able to get one of those cranks for around $190 brand new. If you used your stock crank you would have to have it polished or turned. You might as well spend an extra $50 on a brand new crank that will increase your displacement. The cost for 355 and 383 pistons are exactly the same. Rods are rods and won't change in price as you could use the same rod in different applications.
You're going to have to have the block honed, align honed, decked, and cleaned. You're going to need to have the rotating assembly balanced, rings installed, etc... Don't forget all of the little costs. If you can do a lot of the basic work like hanging the rods you will save yourself quite a bit of money.
You might also want to think about doing some things now even though they will cost a little more money. Such as having splayed mains and main studs.
You're going to have to have the block honed, align honed, decked, and cleaned. You're going to need to have the rotating assembly balanced, rings installed, etc... Don't forget all of the little costs. If you can do a lot of the basic work like hanging the rods you will save yourself quite a bit of money.
You might also want to think about doing some things now even though they will cost a little more money. Such as having splayed mains and main studs.
01-01-2009, 10:13 PM
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I would only build the 383 if you can get the heads to support it. And if your not planin on a big shot of juice you can re use the crank, rods, and get some arp fasteners. Than all you need is a decent forged piston.
The 383 will require you to buy a lot more parts. But if your going to buy heads anyway the gains could be quite a bit more than the 355. Especially in the TQ dept.
So you really have to figure out what you want. What would you like for na hp, how much n2o? What times would you like it to run?
The 383 will require you to buy a lot more parts. But if your going to buy heads anyway the gains could be quite a bit more than the 355. Especially in the TQ dept.
So you really have to figure out what you want. What would you like for na hp, how much n2o? What times would you like it to run?
01-01-2009, 10:45 PM
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I would only build the 383 if you can get the heads to support it. And if your not planin on a big shot of juice you can re use the crank, rods, and get some arp fasteners. Than all you need is a decent forged piston.
The 383 will require you to buy a lot more parts. But if your going to buy heads anyway the gains could be quite a bit more than the 355. Especially in the TQ dept.
So you really have to figure out what you want. What would you like for na hp, how much n2o? What times would you like it to run?
The 383 will require you to buy a lot more parts. But if your going to buy heads anyway the gains could be quite a bit more than the 355. Especially in the TQ dept.
So you really have to figure out what you want. What would you like for na hp, how much n2o? What times would you like it to run?
01-02-2009, 05:13 AM
#18
Yeah man... I just rebuilt my engine and I found damn near everything right here or over on Z28... Just slap your patients on and wait for the deals...
Of course the first order of business is the tear down and analysis... and go from there.
IF I had it to do over again, I'd roll it out to a stroked 383... but I was sufferin' the brokes and sounds like you know how that is...
I spent 3 large using all the stock internals, but that included two cams (long story), a head job, springs and all the top end crapola... the stall, headers, misc... and a boat load of beer...
Of course the first order of business is the tear down and analysis... and go from there.
IF I had it to do over again, I'd roll it out to a stroked 383... but I was sufferin' the brokes and sounds like you know how that is...
I spent 3 large using all the stock internals, but that included two cams (long story), a head job, springs and all the top end crapola... the stall, headers, misc... and a boat load of beer...
01-02-2009, 12:32 PM
#19
I'd do what I said and buy a cast crank, forged eagle rods, and some forged pistons. It also depends on what your future goals are with the car. What do you intend on doing with it, realistically how much do you have to spend, etc? That'll dictate what you'll need to do.
Your first order of business is figuring out what is wrong with your current engine. You say it is blown, but what is blown? You could have something simple like lost a head gasket.
Your first order of business is figuring out what is wrong with your current engine. You say it is blown, but what is blown? You could have something simple like lost a head gasket.
01-02-2009, 01:51 PM
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What happened to a $1000 budget? Building a high compression 383 to only run mid 11's? If you have any kind of a budget stick with the stock crank/rods and spend money on what makes power. I would rather spend the $600+ on headwork than a cast crank and i-beam rods, especially when the stock stuff will hold up just fine.