Handling power
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
Handling power So my car has all the mods listed in my sig, all that's left now is a nice CC503 and supporting valve springs. If i take the plunge and do the cam, what else am i looking at in terms of upgrading for the rest of the car? Will my Diff go out on me with that much power? Axles?
you axles and diff should be fine as long as you dont plan on launching your car at some ridiculous rpm above 2500 **** you might be able to even goto 3000 but i dont see the need as you will be burning out for a good couple seconds.
but in regards of handling the power the only thing i would think about is the current state of the clutch now, because you will obviously be making a good little bit more hp, and that in turn puts more force on the clutch each time you shift.
otherwise i'd say youre good to go and i'm almost 100% sure tons of people have run that cam with little to no problems as long as all the valve train is in good enough condition to handle the extra lift.
but in regards of handling the power the only thing i would think about is the current state of the clutch now, because you will obviously be making a good little bit more hp, and that in turn puts more force on the clutch each time you shift.
otherwise i'd say youre good to go and i'm almost 100% sure tons of people have run that cam with little to no problems as long as all the valve train is in good enough condition to handle the extra lift.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2008
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
you axles and diff should be fine as long as you dont plan on launching your car at some ridiculous rpm above 2500 **** you might be able to even goto 3000 but i dont see the need as you will be burning out for a good couple seconds.
but in regards of handling the power the only thing i would think about is the current state of the clutch now, because you will obviously be making a good little bit more hp, and that in turn puts more force on the clutch each time you shift.
otherwise i'd say youre good to go and i'm almost 100% sure tons of people have run that cam with little to no problems as long as all the valve train is in good enough condition to handle the extra lift.
but in regards of handling the power the only thing i would think about is the current state of the clutch now, because you will obviously be making a good little bit more hp, and that in turn puts more force on the clutch each time you shift.
otherwise i'd say youre good to go and i'm almost 100% sure tons of people have run that cam with little to no problems as long as all the valve train is in good enough condition to handle the extra lift.
so ill upgrade the valve springs, what else should i upgrade on the valve train? any suggestions? I want to keep it around 600$ total. i know the cc503 is like $300, valve spriings are like 150, what else?
how much can the stock clutch handle? my stocker right now can barely handle the power i have. it doesnt chirp 2nd to third
so ill upgrade the valve springs, what else should i upgrade on the valve train? any suggestions? I want to keep it around 600$ total. i know the cc503 is like $300, valve spriings are like 150, what else?
how much can the stock clutch handle? my stocker right now can barely handle the power i have. it doesnt chirp 2nd to third
how much can the stock clutch handle? my stocker right now can barely handle the power i have. it doesnt chirp 2nd to third
i would just hate for you to spend all your extra cash on the cam and valve train to just blow your clutch up and not have a DD.
so ill upgrade the valve springs, what else should i upgrade on the valve train? any suggestions? I want to keep it around 600$ total. i know the cc503 is like $300, valve spriings are like 150, what else?
how much can the stock clutch handle? my stocker right now can barely handle the power i have. it doesnt chirp 2nd to third
how much can the stock clutch handle? my stocker right now can barely handle the power i have. it doesnt chirp 2nd to third
It would be very difficult to pull off a cam swap for under $600, unless you bought used parts. Things that are a MUST have -
Camshaft, valve springs, retainers, roller rockers, seats, locks, lifters (if yours have high mileage), gaskets, fluids, and a TUNE. Expect to pay around $1000 or more to do it correctly.
Ditto on the clutch.
It would be very difficult to pull off a cam swap for under $600, unless you bought used parts. Things that are a MUST have -
Camshaft, valve springs, retainers, roller rockers, seats, locks, lifters (if yours have high mileage), gaskets, fluids, and a TUNE. Expect to pay around $1000 or more to do it correctly.
It would be very difficult to pull off a cam swap for under $600, unless you bought used parts. Things that are a MUST have -
Camshaft, valve springs, retainers, roller rockers, seats, locks, lifters (if yours have high mileage), gaskets, fluids, and a TUNE. Expect to pay around $1000 or more to do it correctly.
it just comes down to what you want to risk, sure you could go bare minimum and just do springs and the cam with some new lifters and retainers, but what if you get a bent pushrod? or something else fails that you skimped on in the first place? just would hate to put the other new parts in danger cause an old part failed and caused multiple failures.
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
Ditto on the clutch.
It would be very difficult to pull off a cam swap for under $600, unless you bought used parts. Things that are a MUST have -
Camshaft, valve springs, retainers, roller rockers, seats, locks, lifters (if yours have high mileage), gaskets, fluids, and a TUNE. Expect to pay around $1000 or more to do it correctly.
It would be very difficult to pull off a cam swap for under $600, unless you bought used parts. Things that are a MUST have -
Camshaft, valve springs, retainers, roller rockers, seats, locks, lifters (if yours have high mileage), gaskets, fluids, and a TUNE. Expect to pay around $1000 or more to do it correctly.
Do you guys think i should just pull the engine out if im doing the clutch at the same time?
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As far as valvetrian goes, run exactly what I am running. I have a CC503 in my car.
CC Promagnum 1.6 NSA rr's
ARP 7/16" rocker arm studs
TF guideplates
TF chromemoly pushrods
CC 918 beehive springs w/ seats, locks, and retainers (I have the Crane 10308 dual springs instead)
Definitely need to spend over $600. Don't skimp!
You should have No problems if you set your valvetrain geometry up correctly. Use an adjustable pushrod, measure twice, order pushrods once.
CC Promagnum 1.6 NSA rr's
ARP 7/16" rocker arm studs
TF guideplates
TF chromemoly pushrods
CC 918 beehive springs w/ seats, locks, and retainers (I have the Crane 10308 dual springs instead)
Definitely need to spend over $600. Don't skimp!
You should have No problems if you set your valvetrain geometry up correctly. Use an adjustable pushrod, measure twice, order pushrods once.
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Verdad Gallardo If you are going to install cam, springs, and a clutch...I would probably drop out the engine and tranny...it will make things ALOT easier.
As far as a clutch goes, you can order an OEM pressure plate, resurface your flywheel, and order a McLeod single disk 500 series.
90K is high if you're still on the original clutch.... making mroe power is senseless if the clutch can't handle the power now.... If you're hurting on money though you can get by with a centerforce disc with a stock pressure plate.... I did this for about 5 months and actually launched on slicks down to 1.55 60 foot times with no issues.... the complete centerforce setup is better though....
do the clutch and then put the added power down.... i'd budget a bit more than what you have set aside for the valvetrain though just in case. nothing ends up costing what you expect....
do the clutch and then put the added power down.... i'd budget a bit more than what you have set aside for the valvetrain though just in case. nothing ends up costing what you expect....
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 966
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
90K is high if you're still on the original clutch.... making mroe power is senseless if the clutch can't handle the power now.... If you're hurting on money though you can get by with a centerforce disc with a stock pressure plate.... I did this for about 5 months and actually launched on slicks down to 1.55 60 foot times with no issues.... the complete centerforce setup is better though....
do the clutch and then put the added power down.... i'd budget a bit more than what you have set aside for the valvetrain though just in case. nothing ends up costing what you expect....
do the clutch and then put the added power down.... i'd budget a bit more than what you have set aside for the valvetrain though just in case. nothing ends up costing what you expect....
90k miles is not that bad if the car is well cared for. You may want to do a compression check to make sure everything is still ok.
If you are going to install cam, springs, and a clutch...I would probably drop out the engine and tranny...it will make things ALOT easier.
As far as a clutch goes, you can order an OEM pressure plate, resurface your flywheel, and order a McLeod single disk 500 series.
If you are going to install cam, springs, and a clutch...I would probably drop out the engine and tranny...it will make things ALOT easier.
As far as a clutch goes, you can order an OEM pressure plate, resurface your flywheel, and order a McLeod single disk 500 series.
Good idea with the clutch there, how much would that run me?
As far as valvetrian goes, run exactly what I am running. I have a CC503 in my car.
CC Promagnum 1.6 NSA rr's
ARP 7/16" rocker arm studs
TF guideplates
TF chromemoly pushrods
CC 918 beehive springs w/ seats, locks, and retainers (I have the Crane 10308 dual springs instead)
Definitely need to spend over $600. Don't skimp!
You should have No problems if you set your valvetrain geometry up correctly. Use an adjustable pushrod, measure twice, order pushrods once.
CC Promagnum 1.6 NSA rr's
ARP 7/16" rocker arm studs
TF guideplates
TF chromemoly pushrods
CC 918 beehive springs w/ seats, locks, and retainers (I have the Crane 10308 dual springs instead)
Definitely need to spend over $600. Don't skimp!
You should have No problems if you set your valvetrain geometry up correctly. Use an adjustable pushrod, measure twice, order pushrods once.
I will keep this in mind. how much did it all run you? did you do the work yourself?
nice setup.
My clutch was replace.. so.. its the second clutch i think, it has life on it thats for sure.
the engine is good, it pulls like a **** with just bolt ons. I SCHOOLED a new mustang last week.
Good idea with the clutch there, how much would that run me?
I will keep this in mind. how much did it all run you? did you do the work yourself?
nice setup.
the engine is good, it pulls like a **** with just bolt ons. I SCHOOLED a new mustang last week.
Good idea with the clutch there, how much would that run me?
I will keep this in mind. how much did it all run you? did you do the work yourself?
nice setup.
The cam swap was reasonable. All of those parts are important.
I bought everything from Summit. I don't remember exactly, but I can give you a rough idea of the cost:
cam ~$300
spring kit ~$200 (for the Crane dual springs, beehive springs cost more)
pushrods ~$80
rockers ~$300
studs ~$40
guideplates ~$20
