Halfway through header install...
Halfway through header install... LPPs. Been at it for about 6 hours. Lots of time wasted on passenger side bolts.
Getting off the stock manifolds was cake. I don't know what the big deal is.
As far as the LPPs ...they fit like a dream as far as the steering rack and kmember. Not a single thing needed grinding or altering on the driver side.
It's good to go other than I can't find the steering rack bolts.
The problem is the passenger side bolts will not line up from the headers into the block. I can get 4 in, but 2 act like they are cross threading or not going in at all. It's the front bolt from cylinder 8 and the rear bolt from cylinder 6. Those middle back two. I got one almost all the way in but it was crooked (second from back). pulled out the bolt and it doesn't look crossthreaded. I can't even get the other one to grab a thread. If I get a washer or two I can rig the one, but I can't just leave the other one completely out.
Still need to do:
Bolt up pass. header.
Plugs on pass side
Wires on pass side
alternator
oil dipstick
starter
y pipe
fill oil and filter
check tranny fluid
I think that's it.
Getting off the stock manifolds was cake. I don't know what the big deal is.
As far as the LPPs ...they fit like a dream as far as the steering rack and kmember. Not a single thing needed grinding or altering on the driver side.
It's good to go other than I can't find the steering rack bolts.
The problem is the passenger side bolts will not line up from the headers into the block. I can get 4 in, but 2 act like they are cross threading or not going in at all. It's the front bolt from cylinder 8 and the rear bolt from cylinder 6. Those middle back two. I got one almost all the way in but it was crooked (second from back). pulled out the bolt and it doesn't look crossthreaded. I can't even get the other one to grab a thread. If I get a washer or two I can rig the one, but I can't just leave the other one completely out.
Still need to do:
Bolt up pass. header.
Plugs on pass side
Wires on pass side
alternator
oil dipstick
starter
y pipe
fill oil and filter
check tranny fluid
I think that's it.
Are you using copper header gaskets? I know I was having problems and I did manage to cross-thread one of my header bolt holes on my new DART heads =\. But I tightened it as much as my spartan self could so it doesn't leak - as long as it doesnt leak you're good.
you maybe should drop that header back down and make sure all of the bolts spin in freely by hand. it is extremely easy to mess up the aluminum threads in the heads. elongate the header bolt holes if you have to to get them to line up correctly. good luck.
definitely maneuver the header and get those bolts bottomed out in the head and check them through the gaskets. my mac mids were a PITA with trying to get the bolts, flange, and gasket 100% lined up. it was the hardest part of the entire job lol
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Ditto on the maybe slotting the header flange boltholes. Had to do it on one of the 4 sets of headers I have installed. Little tolerance stacking in the heads and headers in opposite drirections can make for missalignment even with quality parts.
I think you would be better off starting the bolt behind number 6 as one of the first few. I know on my car you have to start those first because you can't start them with the flange near the head, have to put the bolt through and hold the header out away fromn the head otherwise the bolt hits the primary.
I think you would be better off starting the bolt behind number 6 as one of the first few. I know on my car you have to start those first because you can't start them with the flange near the head, have to put the bolt through and hold the header out away fromn the head otherwise the bolt hits the primary.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I had the same issue on my 97 Z28. I actually took off the heat shield that was above the catylitic converter and everything was smooth sailing after that. Try that first before you get invloved with the flanges or the head.
All the answers here sound pretty good.
There is variances between the header, gasket and head.
I would do like others said first remove the header and check the gasket to header holes and make sure the gasket is not making the bolts try and start crooked. If so you can make the gasket holes a little bigger.
I would also run a tap into each head bolt hole to make sure they are clean. when you reinstall the header you should just barely start each bolt until you get them all started.
If all else fails you can elongate the hole in the header flange that's giving you problems.
There is variances between the header, gasket and head.
I would do like others said first remove the header and check the gasket to header holes and make sure the gasket is not making the bolts try and start crooked. If so you can make the gasket holes a little bigger.
I would also run a tap into each head bolt hole to make sure they are clean. when you reinstall the header you should just barely start each bolt until you get them all started.
If all else fails you can elongate the hole in the header flange that's giving you problems.
Got everything finished. I had to completely remove the catback just to test drive. It's LOUD. Louder than my brothers open Y header'd LT1.
Going to the track this friday hopefully. Going to get some LPP gains.
I really want my catback back on...
Going to the track this friday hopefully. Going to get some LPP gains.
I really want my catback back on...
