K&N air filter question
#1
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For Christmas I got a cold air intake minus the filter. On the K&N cold air intake the original filter has a 4" inlet is 6" wide and 7 inches long. So far I can only find aftermarket filters that are either 4" long or 10.25" long. I am assuming that the 4" would starve the car for air and not make the cold air intake function to its full potential. I am wondering if the filter that is 10.25 inches long is too long to fit in the space that I am given to work with. One reason that I am looking for aftermarket filters is because the one that K&N sells to replace it is $50 or more where I have seen it.
#2
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Well, any equivalent aftermarket filter is probably going to be equally priced.
Have all these priced out:
RF-1015
RE-0870
RC-5060
RC-5137
RF-1032
RF-1027
To find the one that you'll want, you'll need to pay attention closely to their dimensions, as they are all very close and one is all the same but for 1" longer
Metal capped ones will most likely result in higher price.
Have all these priced out:
RF-1015
RE-0870
RC-5060
RC-5137
RF-1032
RF-1027
To find the one that you'll want, you'll need to pay attention closely to their dimensions, as they are all very close and one is all the same but for 1" longer
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#3
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What I am wondering is if I can put a 10 and 1/4" filter on in the spot that K&N intended for there to be a 7 inch long filter. Is it physically possible or should I just keep looking? I have until at least mid March before I can get the car out to put it on anyways. I am just wondering if I can stop searching if I found a filter that would fit.
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Well I've heard rumors of that, but I can't remember what the verdict was on the site. They also recommend them against people running boost, but my buddy has been using his K&N on his Cummins with 36psi and no problems *shrug*
If I had my car close by and not under snow where it's at, I'd go and measure for you :\ Maybe someone in the warmer climate can go measure lol
If I had my car close by and not under snow where it's at, I'd go and measure for you :\ Maybe someone in the warmer climate can go measure lol
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#9
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I made a custom intake system for my car, rubber elbow I cut holes in for the plugs and crap, attached it to the stock maf with pvc, then ran some more pvc to that hole that the K&N's plug into took some sheet metal to fill the hole around the pipe, then attached a 6" K&N cone to it.
I took it to a dyno and showed a 24.73 horsepower gain and a 30.61 (ft-lbs) increase in torque at 4250 RPM. I laughed my butt off when I saw that after only spending about 40bucks on these parts. My setup cause my air/fuel ratio to drop to abotu 13.2 from 14.8 which is shown for many cars to perform best around. I was sorta dissapointed cuz I bought a Pro-M maf that actually ran for **** making the mix fat off the chart. So, if the oiled filter messes with the MAF it messes with it in a good way.
I took it to a dyno and showed a 24.73 horsepower gain and a 30.61 (ft-lbs) increase in torque at 4250 RPM. I laughed my butt off when I saw that after only spending about 40bucks on these parts. My setup cause my air/fuel ratio to drop to abotu 13.2 from 14.8 which is shown for many cars to perform best around. I was sorta dissapointed cuz I bought a Pro-M maf that actually ran for **** making the mix fat off the chart. So, if the oiled filter messes with the MAF it messes with it in a good way.
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Oiled filters will ruin the MAF when they are reoiled too heavily and not allowed to stand for a few hours at least before they are installed and the engine run.. Read the directions that came with the K&N filter and they explain all that... Oh and go to the K&N website and they list all their filters by dimension.. Good luck finding something that works as good for less than $50.....
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I have run K&Ns for the last 35 years with no problems at all. They used to claim that a dirty filter worked better b/c it increase the filter area. T/F IDK.
I would never run a dry filter in place of a K&N, that is just obtuse. The price difference does not make sense when you have to replace the dry one, vs. the K&N that you keep until you manage to destroy it somehow.
The first mod I put on my Formula was a K&N filtercharger in 1997, and I have never had it oil the maf. Ever, and I keep a watch on the maf. My current STS engine has a K&N filter on it, and it has never oiled the maf.
For the inexperienced, use the aerosol can. It is easier to apply and more difficult to overoil. When you are done, be sure and let it set an hour or two, then blow it out from the inside out with compressed air. You should be fine.
I would never run a dry filter in place of a K&N, that is just obtuse. The price difference does not make sense when you have to replace the dry one, vs. the K&N that you keep until you manage to destroy it somehow.
The first mod I put on my Formula was a K&N filtercharger in 1997, and I have never had it oil the maf. Ever, and I keep a watch on the maf. My current STS engine has a K&N filter on it, and it has never oiled the maf.
For the inexperienced, use the aerosol can. It is easier to apply and more difficult to overoil. When you are done, be sure and let it set an hour or two, then blow it out from the inside out with compressed air. You should be fine.