95 caprice cop car
01-22-2009, 05:07 PM
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95 caprice cop car my buddy has a 95 caprice cop car, LT1 with the police package on it. it is a retired cop car, my buddy would like to know the cam specs on this motor, does anyone by chance know the specs on a LT1 cop car cam? and yes i tried a search and found nothing 
01-23-2009, 04:23 PM
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another question, whats the gear ratio in the rear of this car? there is really nothing on this car in the search 
and by chance does anyone know the weight?
and by chance does anyone know the weight?
01-23-2009, 04:30 PM
#7
3.08 for a LT1 9C1, the civilian cars got 2.93.
For the most part you would do well to ignore the whole "cop car" thing. That pretty much meant likely to have a crappy rubber floor, crappier seats, rear discs that don't function right because of the drum proportioning valve, and ugly green hoses. NOTHING meaningful performance wise. Only special programming was a higher speed limiter to match the tires.
Weight is probably 4200ish without driver but with fullsize spare, jack and fuel.
A lot of folks like to overstate the weight of these things.
For the most part you would do well to ignore the whole "cop car" thing. That pretty much meant likely to have a crappy rubber floor, crappier seats, rear discs that don't function right because of the drum proportioning valve, and ugly green hoses. NOTHING meaningful performance wise. Only special programming was a higher speed limiter to match the tires.
Weight is probably 4200ish without driver but with fullsize spare, jack and fuel.
A lot of folks like to overstate the weight of these things.
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01-23-2009, 05:15 PM
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the main reason im asking the question i am is because this is going to be my buddies tow vehicle for our cars to the track and we are just trying to see what needs to be upgraded to do the job 
01-23-2009, 06:51 PM
#10
For towing a primary concern of mine would be making the rear brakes actually function.
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=151252
I have had all three available rear brake options(9.5" drum, 11" drum and disc) on the same car and in stock form the discs are the WORST in normal driving, they work fine in hard stops though. I know that sounds completely wrong but read the link and you will understand.
3.42s and towing in "D" would probably be my pick. 3.73s are very popular though.
Airlift bags and good shocks, Monroe Severe Service or Bilsteins spec'd for an 80s cop car, the 90s stuff can be floaty the 80s a little more firm. Oddly this is what I run on my car works fine at the track.
There are a handful of guys on the linked Impala forum who tow their b-body with another b-body works fine so long as you stay out of the mountains, not a problem where you are.
These things are rotor challenged in front, just not enough mass too them, accept the fact he will change them every other year or so under that sort of use. Slowing mine from 110+mph causes small heat cracks. Brakes are all about turning forward momentum into heat and the rotor has to store that heat and then disapate it, when a rotor is light the material gets hotter in order to store the energy. There are options to add some rotor mass but none of them are cheap and few fit under the 15" wheels.
I will probably one day setup my wagon to tow the sedan, but for now it is a true street car, has never been towed to the track.
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=151252
I have had all three available rear brake options(9.5" drum, 11" drum and disc) on the same car and in stock form the discs are the WORST in normal driving, they work fine in hard stops though. I know that sounds completely wrong but read the link and you will understand.
3.42s and towing in "D" would probably be my pick. 3.73s are very popular though.
Airlift bags and good shocks, Monroe Severe Service or Bilsteins spec'd for an 80s cop car, the 90s stuff can be floaty the 80s a little more firm. Oddly this is what I run on my car works fine at the track.
There are a handful of guys on the linked Impala forum who tow their b-body with another b-body works fine so long as you stay out of the mountains, not a problem where you are.
These things are rotor challenged in front, just not enough mass too them, accept the fact he will change them every other year or so under that sort of use. Slowing mine from 110+mph causes small heat cracks. Brakes are all about turning forward momentum into heat and the rotor has to store that heat and then disapate it, when a rotor is light the material gets hotter in order to store the energy. There are options to add some rotor mass but none of them are cheap and few fit under the 15" wheels.
I will probably one day setup my wagon to tow the sedan, but for now it is a true street car, has never been towed to the track.
01-27-2009, 09:06 AM
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Check out the metering mod and proportioning mods that can be done to make the brakes work far better. I did this with my 95 9C1 and it was a major improvement but I also replaced all four discs and calipers and went to better pads in the front at the same time so that the improvement was far more dramatic than it would've been with good parts to start with.
Either way, anything would work better than hitting a deer and leaving the ABS non-functional and then hitting several more deer and blaming the "crappy" 9C1 brakes. Right Dwayne?
Either way, anything would work better than hitting a deer and leaving the ABS non-functional and then hitting several more deer and blaming the "crappy" 9C1 brakes. Right Dwayne?
