Could I make high 8's low 9's if I.......
#1
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gutted the car, weighs 3600 with me in it now, I could:
Put 2 alum seats in
Pull carpet out
Gut behind the dash
Remove a/c evap/heater core
Remove center console
Install Aerospace brakes
Take power brakes off, install manual brakes
Take the Detroit locker out, put in a spool and a 3.50 gear
Remove factory tank and put in a fuel cell
Lightweight battery
Remove the huge Griffin rad and install a stock radiator
Remove the catback, put muffler on end of merge under car with a turndown.
Remove radio and speakers.
remove power steering, install manual rack.
Take the 4L60E out, put a turbo 400 in with a brake.
Put the NOS big shot plate back on the car, put race fuel in.
Possible???????? Think I could go after the LT1 NOS record? On stock electronics?
Or ruin a perfectly good nice streetcar trying to go where I cant get to.
Just daydreaming here.
Put 2 alum seats in
Pull carpet out
Gut behind the dash
Remove a/c evap/heater core
Remove center console
Install Aerospace brakes
Take power brakes off, install manual brakes
Take the Detroit locker out, put in a spool and a 3.50 gear
Remove factory tank and put in a fuel cell
Lightweight battery
Remove the huge Griffin rad and install a stock radiator
Remove the catback, put muffler on end of merge under car with a turndown.
Remove radio and speakers.
remove power steering, install manual rack.
Take the 4L60E out, put a turbo 400 in with a brake.
Put the NOS big shot plate back on the car, put race fuel in.
Possible???????? Think I could go after the LT1 NOS record? On stock electronics?
Or ruin a perfectly good nice streetcar trying to go where I cant get to.
Just daydreaming here.
Last edited by FASTFATBOY; 01-22-2009 at 10:52 PM.
#2
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I'll swap u radiators if u want to go back to stock.
im starting first with my car by getting it down to aprox 2800 pounds and running the stock lt1 with bolt ons and add a 150 shot. So far, i have gutted the heat/ac/airbags-pretty much everything behind the dash. I've taken the back seats out and gotten race seats for the front, removed power steering, and the bumper crash supports. Still have to do all the brackets and whatever else i dont need once it warms up.
im starting first with my car by getting it down to aprox 2800 pounds and running the stock lt1 with bolt ons and add a 150 shot. So far, i have gutted the heat/ac/airbags-pretty much everything behind the dash. I've taken the back seats out and gotten race seats for the front, removed power steering, and the bumper crash supports. Still have to do all the brackets and whatever else i dont need once it warms up.
Last edited by Black94Z28; 01-22-2009 at 06:31 PM.
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hmm not to long ago the car was done as a racecar now to me it seems u havent totally shaken the bug? how much you gonna spray? i think 9.40-9.50 is possible on a 150 shot and a 3200lb car. in a 3000lb car and a 250 shot you'd be gettin down there but not record times
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I def think it's possible, i mean look at your raceweight right now, no affence but its not a light car, and your puttin down wickid numbers NA, get the weight to around 3000 and slap a good shot of the giggle gas on there low 9's are easy and 8's aren't unacheivable either. DO IT!!! hahah
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Id definately say its doable shaving shitloads of lbs and adding a big shot. keep us posted
and G/L. I followed your thread and pics last time and the carnage sucked. glad to see ya got it running like a raped ape
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#8
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I think it takes about 800RWHP for a 3400lb f-body to run 8's in the 1/4. Your setup a few hundred pounds lighter on a 250-300 shot could possibly to do it, don't see why it couldn't. IF you get it even lighter then less than that on the spray.
Best of luck in your decision, but a fast pure street car is funner IMO.
Best of luck in your decision, but a fast pure street car is funner IMO.
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If you take out around 800 lbs I'd say it is doable. 2800 lb race weight would put you around 9.78 NA as it is setup now. Swapping to a large shot nitrous converter is going to slow down your motor time. If you don't drop around a second with a 200 shot something is wrong.
EDIT: You are also going really extreme on the weight reduction. I had mine calculated down to 2650 without a cage, 155lb me in it, all the interior panels, two seats, carpet, AC, PS, and an aluminum block. You should be able to hit 2800 depending on how physically large you are. It doesn't have to look like a tin can to be light.
EDIT: You are also going really extreme on the weight reduction. I had mine calculated down to 2650 without a cage, 155lb me in it, all the interior panels, two seats, carpet, AC, PS, and an aluminum block. You should be able to hit 2800 depending on how physically large you are. It doesn't have to look like a tin can to be light.
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I would do some weight reduction while still keeping it clean. The I would spray it as is and go mid 9's.
you still have your enjoyable driver and your mid 9sec track beast
basically my plans
you still have your enjoyable driver and your mid 9sec track beast
basically my plans
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I think it takes about 800RWHP for a 3400lb f-body to run 8's in the 1/4. Your setup a few hundred pounds lighter on a 250-300 shot could possibly to do it, don't see why it couldn't. IF you get it even lighter then less than that on the spray.
Best of luck in your decision, but a fast pure street car is funner IMO
Best of luck in your decision, but a fast pure street car is funner IMO
FASTFAT-my car has most of that stuff done to it that you listed and it still weighs 3350 with me in it.... i don't know how much weight you can take out of it to get it under 3200 lbs with you in it.... If I shoot for a race weight that low I'm going to do lexan front window, lexan back window and a fiberglass hatch.... That right there is like 150 lbs of crap reduced to like 20..... so an overall 130 lb weight savings.... I think you'd need a raceweight of about 3200 and HP at the wheels right around 750-800..... tough to do with a stock PCm but possible.... planning on doing it with an LTx style manifold??? gotta refresh my memory how the top end is set up....
#14
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It actually takes a bit more than that depending on how your car 60 foots... We're figuring it's about 850 RWHP to break into the 8's at 3300 lbs... that's what most calculators online say as well....
FASTFAT-my car has most of that stuff done to it that you listed and it still weighs 3350 with me in it.... i don't know how much weight you can take out of it to get it under 3200 lbs with you in it.... If I shoot for a race weight that low I'm going to do lexan front window, lexan back window and a fiberglass hatch.... That right there is like 150 lbs of crap reduced to like 20..... so an overall 130 lb weight savings.... I think you'd need a raceweight of about 3200 and HP at the wheels right around 750-800..... tough to do with a stock PCm but possible.... planning on doing it with an LTx style manifold??? gotta refresh my memory how the top end is set up....
FASTFAT-my car has most of that stuff done to it that you listed and it still weighs 3350 with me in it.... i don't know how much weight you can take out of it to get it under 3200 lbs with you in it.... If I shoot for a race weight that low I'm going to do lexan front window, lexan back window and a fiberglass hatch.... That right there is like 150 lbs of crap reduced to like 20..... so an overall 130 lb weight savings.... I think you'd need a raceweight of about 3200 and HP at the wheels right around 750-800..... tough to do with a stock PCm but possible.... planning on doing it with an LTx style manifold??? gotta refresh my memory how the top end is set up....
Oh yeh I forgot manual steering with a low mount alternator On the weight savings.
I have a supervic with a elbows.com elbow and a monoblade.
James, I have a Vette block 4 bolt mains. Eagle 4340 crank, 6 inch Eagle H beam rods and speed pro pistons(flat tops) with floating pins.
I just got a wild hair, aint no way I am gonna shoot enough spray to make 800+rwhp. I only make around 470 now! My engine aint gonna digest 350 shot of spray, I dont think anyway.
Course I could put a direct port on the supervic that would help.
#15
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If you have good rod bolts and you've invested in head/main studs, you
should be able to handle a decent progressive multi-stage N20 setup without much touble.
Maybe a 125 off the line and another 125 shortly thereafter.
If you're pulling 10.58 N/A, I see no reason why you can't get yourself deep into the 9's.
I toyed with the idea of a direct-port system on my car. Maybe someday.
I love the fact that you still run on pump gas
should be able to handle a decent progressive multi-stage N20 setup without much touble.
Maybe a 125 off the line and another 125 shortly thereafter.
If you're pulling 10.58 N/A, I see no reason why you can't get yourself deep into the 9's.
I toyed with the idea of a direct-port system on my car. Maybe someday.
I love the fact that you still run on pump gas
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#16
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If you have good rod bolts and you've invested in head/main studs, you
should be able to handle a decent progressive multi-stage N20 setup without much touble.
Maybe a 125 off the line and another 125 shortly thereafter.
If you're pulling 10.58 N/A, I see no reason why you can't get yourself deep into the 9's.
I toyed with the idea of a direct-port system on my car. Maybe someday.
I love the fact that you still run on pump gas![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
should be able to handle a decent progressive multi-stage N20 setup without much touble.
Maybe a 125 off the line and another 125 shortly thereafter.
If you're pulling 10.58 N/A, I see no reason why you can't get yourself deep into the 9's.
I toyed with the idea of a direct-port system on my car. Maybe someday.
I love the fact that you still run on pump gas
![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
Yeh I got main studs, no head studs.
You would "think" I could run 9.50's on a 175 shot now without doing anything but a gear change and a rear drag swaybar. Or am I in left field?
#17
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expect that a 175 shot could net close to a full second. That's a lot of cyl
pressure though and massive burst of TQ.
What's the drivetrain look like?
I see that you have a CPT-built trans.
#19
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Gonna have to drop to a 3.50 or 3.70 gear
9 inch with a Detroit Locker, 4.11 gear, 31 spline axles
Driveshaft aint goin anywhere.
Def gonna need a rear swaybar, stock one aint cuttin it now. Converter will be ok.
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you seem to like driving the car a lot, so why go TH400? The 4L60E can be built to work with some HP especially if you plan to take some more weight out.
hate to see you do that and hate the 3 speed for cruising
was the motor setup for spray after you fixed it?
what RPM do you go through the traps at now? I would think you could still spray it with the 4.10 / 28" slick combo you have.
3.50 or 3.70 would help get the car out down low, but that is going to loosen up the converter more which could hurt top end...stall change may then be needed.
you make gear changes and trans changes you could lose all you have worked hard for to date which would suck.... 10.58 is fly'n @ your raceweight
I would just try a small 100 shot and see how the car works and you may just be pleased with that.
hate to see you do that and hate the 3 speed for cruising
was the motor setup for spray after you fixed it?
what RPM do you go through the traps at now? I would think you could still spray it with the 4.10 / 28" slick combo you have.
3.50 or 3.70 would help get the car out down low, but that is going to loosen up the converter more which could hurt top end...stall change may then be needed.
you make gear changes and trans changes you could lose all you have worked hard for to date which would suck.... 10.58 is fly'n @ your raceweight
I would just try a small 100 shot and see how the car works and you may just be pleased with that.
Last edited by LS1 SPEED; 01-22-2009 at 11:44 PM.