Whats needed to correctly port a LT1 intake?
01-24-2009, 03:44 PM
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Whats needed to correctly port a LT1 intake? Want to get my intake ported and cleaned up since i have some downtime, is there a write up somewhere showing where and how much to port? It looks like these intakes properly ported are all the car really needs, which is good bc i dont have any extra money for an intake 
01-25-2009, 10:29 AM
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Search is your friend, this is in the first post that came up when I searched.
LLoyd Elliot posted this on here before. I saved it.
"DO NOT gasket match the intake. The floor and roof are fine at the gasket area. Just remove material from the divider wall between ports at gasket area and the outer walls just need to be straitened up if you have the intake that tapers smaller at the top. If your intake is pretty much strait on all walls, just leave it alone at the gasket area.
You wanna raise the roof of the intake just behind the inj and remove as much of that ski slope as you can.
You wanna have the port steadily get wider as it goes back to plenum area and have it end up about .100-.120 wider at the plenum area.
Lower the floor (NOT at gasket area) all the way to plenum and correct the angle that the ports on the intake and head match up. It is more of an L shape now and you need to straiten this out.
Open the TB holes up to 58 MM and grind down the IAC bump and make the TB holes go strait back by removing a lot of this hump. Then taper the bump smaller and round the bump off on the back side like an air plane wing. Remove a lot of material from the sides of the intake behind the TB holes and make it slowly taper to the rest of the intake. Make sure and look/feel on the outside of the intake and see where the thin spots are that will limit what you can do."
LLoyd Elliot posted this on here before. I saved it.
"DO NOT gasket match the intake. The floor and roof are fine at the gasket area. Just remove material from the divider wall between ports at gasket area and the outer walls just need to be straitened up if you have the intake that tapers smaller at the top. If your intake is pretty much strait on all walls, just leave it alone at the gasket area.
You wanna raise the roof of the intake just behind the inj and remove as much of that ski slope as you can.
You wanna have the port steadily get wider as it goes back to plenum area and have it end up about .100-.120 wider at the plenum area.
Lower the floor (NOT at gasket area) all the way to plenum and correct the angle that the ports on the intake and head match up. It is more of an L shape now and you need to straiten this out.
Open the TB holes up to 58 MM and grind down the IAC bump and make the TB holes go strait back by removing a lot of this hump. Then taper the bump smaller and round the bump off on the back side like an air plane wing. Remove a lot of material from the sides of the intake behind the TB holes and make it slowly taper to the rest of the intake. Make sure and look/feel on the outside of the intake and see where the thin spots are that will limit what you can do."
01-25-2009, 09:43 PM
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I used a set of 6" rotary files and 6" arbor with tapered sanding rolls. Also a set of inside and outside calipers for checking port dimensions and manifold thickness. I measured and tried to keep around .1 minimum thickness.
