HELP Please...
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 286
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From: SW FLORIDA
HELP Please... I just finished this rebuild and had a new tune to the pcm. It was an obd1 conversion.
My problem is that when I try and turn the key to crank I get a loud click (sound like from the starter) and then the whole car shuts off for a few minutes or till I disconnect/reconnect the battery.
Is this related to the VATS? I had the tuner leave it as is because the keys/ignition system is the original does the pcm know if read the resistance from the chip or is it not related to the pcm. the pcm I have was one that I had the tuner ship (not original)
What is my problem here?
My problem is that when I try and turn the key to crank I get a loud click (sound like from the starter) and then the whole car shuts off for a few minutes or till I disconnect/reconnect the battery.
Is this related to the VATS? I had the tuner leave it as is because the keys/ignition system is the original does the pcm know if read the resistance from the chip or is it not related to the pcm. the pcm I have was one that I had the tuner ship (not original)
What is my problem here?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 286
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From: SW FLORIDA
it looks like the starter was contacting the teeth on the flywheel it truns over now.
but it stumbles and tries to start but wont go. the fuel lines were empty how long could it take to prime the system up ?
but it stumbles and tries to start but wont go. the fuel lines were empty how long could it take to prime the system up ?
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Turning the key on and off 4 times SHOULD prime it up. My question, is where did the ODB1 computer come from (I don't know what it takes to do a conversion), and then I'd ask if the computer and the ignition key are tied together for VATS, or if the system that checks the key is like the body control module. I have a feeling that the issue is due to the conversion (either the tune or some other module) and not so much the motor or another part.
You can also hear the pump turn on when you turn the key forward, so if you don't hear that, it's a fair bet there's something preventing it from turning on. You can check to see if it's still good by jumping it, but you'll need to know which relay wires to jump. Which I don't have that info, sorry.
You can also hear the pump turn on when you turn the key forward, so if you don't hear that, it's a fair bet there's something preventing it from turning on. You can check to see if it's still good by jumping it, but you'll need to know which relay wires to jump. Which I don't have that info, sorry.
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 286
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From: SW FLORIDA
well I got the PCM from PCMforless, it is their OBD1 conversion:
http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?...d=44&Itemid=40
I have tried this quite a few times and the car wont run, I am retty sure it isn't the vats now because the car turns over fine but just won't run which is why I was thinking fuel problem.
http://www.pcmforless.com/index.php?...d=44&Itemid=40
I have tried this quite a few times and the car wont run, I am retty sure it isn't the vats now because the car turns over fine but just won't run which is why I was thinking fuel problem.
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Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Decatur, TN (N-W of Athens)
Check to see if it has fuel and spark then. It's not hard to check spark. Quickest way is if you have some old spark plug wires, pull off the coil wire and stick the spare wire in there with a spark plug on the other end, then ground the plug and turn the car over. If there's spark, then pull the plug & wire off cyl one and re-test. If there's still spark, then get a fuel system pressure tester and slap it on the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Prime the system a couple times and look at the pressure, then release the pressure (heh preferably not on your motor, so put the drain tube in a pop can or something) and then crank it over for at least 5 seconds. But immediately start to crank, don't pause and let the pump prime. I'm no 100% sure, but I think there's 2 different circuits for the fuel pump. One is a direct power feed for starting and then when it starts it kicks over to another controlled by the computer.
If you don't have spark OR fuel, I'd call PCM 4 Less and see if they think it's a computer problem, be it VATS or something else.
If you don't have spark OR fuel, I'd call PCM 4 Less and see if they think it's a computer problem, be it VATS or something else.
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