Converting an SBC block to LT1
#1
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I know i've seen a pic somewhere of someone doing this to an aluminum Donovan block or something along those lines. Does anyone have this pic floating around?
I talked to my engine guy the other day. He said he could do it no problem, but when he showed me what he had in mind, it would be a dead giveaway that it isn't an LT1 anymore. I thought it would be a sweet idea, if you could somehow convert a Dart Little-M block and go hog-wild with the cubes..say 434 or 454, and still have it retain the LT1 look. You'd need an electric water pump obviously. The timing covers are close at the bottom half, but then the LT1 cover goes about 2 inches higher, and just looks odd sitting on the sbc block.
Anyone ever have any ideas about doing this?
I talked to my engine guy the other day. He said he could do it no problem, but when he showed me what he had in mind, it would be a dead giveaway that it isn't an LT1 anymore. I thought it would be a sweet idea, if you could somehow convert a Dart Little-M block and go hog-wild with the cubes..say 434 or 454, and still have it retain the LT1 look. You'd need an electric water pump obviously. The timing covers are close at the bottom half, but then the LT1 cover goes about 2 inches higher, and just looks odd sitting on the sbc block.
Anyone ever have any ideas about doing this?
#2
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I know the guy who built the 434ci Donovan LT1, and he actually made it work with the mechanical WP too.
Guy had built two and later sold the other block, so there is another out there somewhere, that or see if the guy who bought the LT1 bowtie block in Ebay a few weeks ago will part with it, will be a LOT cheaper.
Guy had built two and later sold the other block, so there is another out there somewhere, that or see if the guy who bought the LT1 bowtie block in Ebay a few weeks ago will part with it, will be a LOT cheaper.
#3
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I guarantee I can find a used aluminum SBC block a lot easier and cheaper than I can find a GM Raceshop LT1 block. Brodix, Rodeck, Donovan, GM, Dart, all make them. They pop up here and there on racingjunk.com for anywhere from $2000-$4000 depending.
My engine guy wanted to plumb 2 lines into the top part of the LT1 water pump and then feed them into the coolant holes on the front of each LT1 cylinder head. On that aluminum one that I saw, the guy actually machind a 90degree bend in the front of the block, just like a real LT1 so there was no external coolant line.
My engine guy wanted to plumb 2 lines into the top part of the LT1 water pump and then feed them into the coolant holes on the front of each LT1 cylinder head. On that aluminum one that I saw, the guy actually machind a 90degree bend in the front of the block, just like a real LT1 so there was no external coolant line.
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Not really the same as what you are thinking but is there any way that SBC shortblock "and heads" can be used? People redrill sbc intakes to fit LT1 heads so it should be able to be done the other way also. As for ignition ive seen people have holes machined in the back of the lt1 intake for standard distributor. But i cant think of what would have to be done to fix the cooling system though since it will now try and go through the intake. Any ideas? Or would it be best to just get a SBC block and convert it like you are talking about and machine a hole in the intake for a dist.?
Reasons for wanting to do this is im not the biggest fan of the o so loving opti and would prefer a 434 over a 383 any day!
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#5
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Not really the same as what you are thinking but is there any way that SBC shortblock "and heads" can be used? People redrill sbc intakes to fit LT1 heads so it should be able to be done the other way also. As for ignition ive seen people have holes machined in the back of the lt1 intake for standard distributor. But i cant think of what would have to be done to fix the cooling system though since it will now try and go through the intake. Any ideas? Or would it be best to just get a SBC block and convert it like you are talking about and machine a hole in the intake for a dist.?
Reasons for wanting to do this is im not the biggest fan of the o so loving opti and would prefer a 434 over a 383 any day!![Grin](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_grin.gif)
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It would be like somehow running a 572 inch big-block with an LS1 computer. Getting all of the sensors correct, crank sensor, fuel rails, etc....Is it an LS1 or no?
There's no point in going through with the conversion if everyone knows it isnt an LT1.
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No, it wouldn't be an LS1 as it is A) totally different motor and intake/head design, but also not the same firing order. So there would be a retune needed. Why not just go with the World Motors 638ci? 572 is for women and small children ![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
BB and SB are the same, but they don't have a BB version of this widgit heh
http://farm.sproutbuilder.com/11397/...WGAt7DOxFR.swf
And since the forum doesn't support coding for embedded objects, I can't make this simpler, so you'll just have to click the link above heh
Otherwise for the actual BBC
http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_bb.htm
![The Jester](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_jest.gif)
BB and SB are the same, but they don't have a BB version of this widgit heh
http://farm.sproutbuilder.com/11397/...WGAt7DOxFR.swf
And since the forum doesn't support coding for embedded objects, I can't make this simpler, so you'll just have to click the link above heh
Otherwise for the actual BBC
http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/chevy_bb.htm
#7
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bump this up. anyone converted a little M to use lt1 parts? any idea on cost?
I have a LT1 with internals that are way more capable than the factory block. looking for an idea on cost to swap it all to a little M
I have a LT1 with internals that are way more capable than the factory block. looking for an idea on cost to swap it all to a little M
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#12
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i already have everything i need stuffed in a LT1 block. not much of a market to sell it, and alot of money to start all over from scratch...
I have a callies magnum crank, billet spalyed 4 bolt mains, oliver billet rods, custom JE pistons, billet core solid roller all SR valvetrain, jesel shaft mounts, cnc comp ported 227's, already converted single plane, elbow, monoblade. etc.
either way lt1 base or genI im buying a dart block to start with... so pay a small amount to have it machined and reassembled.
though i never gave it much thought what all would swap over to a gen1. off of my motor?
I have a callies magnum crank, billet spalyed 4 bolt mains, oliver billet rods, custom JE pistons, billet core solid roller all SR valvetrain, jesel shaft mounts, cnc comp ported 227's, already converted single plane, elbow, monoblade. etc.
either way lt1 base or genI im buying a dart block to start with... so pay a small amount to have it machined and reassembled.
though i never gave it much thought what all would swap over to a gen1. off of my motor?
#13
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well i bought a motor freshly assembled but with a nonfilled block for whatever reason. didnt think about it at the time but now the build has kind of spiraled into something bigger and that non-filled block will be my limit. Local engine builder says he cant Hard-blok it since its already final bored and assembled. i think it should hold 950-1000 rwhp how it is? would like to have the ability to go further.
guess i could always yank the motor over winter and hard block it and reassemble everything from scratch. and adress and bore issues if they appear. whats the worst i need a new set of pistons?
guess i could always yank the motor over winter and hard block it and reassemble everything from scratch. and adress and bore issues if they appear. whats the worst i need a new set of pistons?
#14
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That's Jeff Green with the Novi S/C'd black ImpalaSS, the Donovan 434 ci converted to LT1 mentioned by Dwayne at the beginning of this thread. It runs all LT1 stuff, including Opti and WP. He's been to several Shootouts, including the last two. He had problems at the last two that kept the car out of contention, but it regularly runs low/mid 9's @ 150+ in a 4400 lb car.
#15
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I dont see why youd want to make an SBC to a TRUE LT1. Using LT1 parts..ok, But id ditch the optispark and water pump for sure.
I think the easiest thing to do would be an L98 with a Lt1 intake conversion. But you have to do a Remote T-stat housing, distributor would be in the back too (not a bad thing). But on a good note, the L98 still has alot of aftermarket as its a SBC. Take the AFR heads, 280cfm intake and 218cfm exhaust @ 550. Mix that with a forged 383 bottom end, a Lt1 intake that can breath, a nice camshaft to match and id MUCH rather have that engine then a optispark lt1.
I had a L98 with Lt1 heads and intake, work was done to the reverse cooling to make it work, id almost rather have that engine back then my lt1. Problem was the car it was in made tuning difficult. Makes me wonder if it could work with the 94 LT1 computer.
I think the easiest thing to do would be an L98 with a Lt1 intake conversion. But you have to do a Remote T-stat housing, distributor would be in the back too (not a bad thing). But on a good note, the L98 still has alot of aftermarket as its a SBC. Take the AFR heads, 280cfm intake and 218cfm exhaust @ 550. Mix that with a forged 383 bottom end, a Lt1 intake that can breath, a nice camshaft to match and id MUCH rather have that engine then a optispark lt1.
I had a L98 with Lt1 heads and intake, work was done to the reverse cooling to make it work, id almost rather have that engine back then my lt1. Problem was the car it was in made tuning difficult. Makes me wonder if it could work with the 94 LT1 computer.
#16
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ive already ditched the opti. running FAST, crank trigger and a rear mount distributor and single plane
not much LT1 left to it to really. but i already have a 13-1500 hp setup IMO. besides the block. why not just swap it all over to a dart block?
not much LT1 left to it to really. but i already have a 13-1500 hp setup IMO. besides the block. why not just swap it all over to a dart block?
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