block is struggling to turn over
#1
block is struggling to turn over
ok so i am doing a rebuild and i am still having problems turning the block with the new bigger starter now when the rod bolts are lose it will turn but when i torque them down the starter will not turn it over there must be something wrong i am almost 100% shore that all the barrens are the right way what could it be and the motor is well oiled
#2
but i do remember when i was installing the rods some where giving me problems fitting the two rods on the crank so i just hit them in with my rubber hammer i just thought that the motor would fix it and put them in place do yall think i may need to put some sand paper on the side of the rod to maybe make it fit a lil better
#7
i was using the stock starter and not a thing out of it so i bought a bigger and better one and for the clearance i have that done the block will turn all the way around but it will not keep turning it will stop but what i have done is taken the heads off and it is working but i think me jumping strait from one car to the starter may be the problem maynot be getting get power i need from jumping it from the other car see the motor is not in the car yet it is on the stand
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#8
well the bearings came withe the stroker kit i bought all was a kit the rods,bearings,cam,pistons,and crank all was a kit
#9
#12
with the heads off it is having trouble and with the heads on it is having trouble i just really think it is the new rings and the amount of power i am giving it i just dont think it is the compression
#13
Honestly, not even joking, get someone who knows what they are doing building motors to give you a hand...
If the rods would not fit together on the crank without using a rubber mallet... Wow, just wow.. don't even know where to start with that one other than you are totally f'ed...
Seriously, take it to someone that knows what they are doing... A motor is NOT an erector set where you just put this here, that there and bolt it up... you have to check clearences, check for fitment, measure this, adjust that, etc, etc...
Wow... I can only just shake my head in disbelief...
If the rods would not fit together on the crank without using a rubber mallet... Wow, just wow.. don't even know where to start with that one other than you are totally f'ed...
Seriously, take it to someone that knows what they are doing... A motor is NOT an erector set where you just put this here, that there and bolt it up... you have to check clearences, check for fitment, measure this, adjust that, etc, etc...
Wow... I can only just shake my head in disbelief...
#14
Honestly, not even joking, get someone who knows what they are doing building motors to give you a hand...
If the rods would not fit together on the crank without using a rubber mallet... Wow, just wow.. don't even know where to start with that one other than you are totally f'ed...
Seriously, take it to someone that knows what they are doing... A motor is NOT an erector set where you just put this here, that there and bolt it up... you have to check clearences, check for fitment, measure this, adjust that, etc, etc...
Wow... I can only just shake my head in disbelief...
If the rods would not fit together on the crank without using a rubber mallet... Wow, just wow.. don't even know where to start with that one other than you are totally f'ed...
Seriously, take it to someone that knows what they are doing... A motor is NOT an erector set where you just put this here, that there and bolt it up... you have to check clearences, check for fitment, measure this, adjust that, etc, etc...
Wow... I can only just shake my head in disbelief...
#15
and you will not learn how to do this if somebody builds your motor for you i build it the way i want to and if it messes up will that is something i will have to fix if someone is building for you wish you the best
#17
TECH Addict
iTrader: (3)
OK, what I would do is start over, Remove all of the pistons or at least push them back in the hole, (disconnected from the crank) if the crank spins freely then thats a good. Now you are sure you have the rods in the proper place? meaning the chamfered end is towards the crank and the flat end is rod to rod. Start installing one rod at a time and after you torque ONE see if the crank will turn by hand just as free as the crank alone, of course there will be a little resistance due to the rings but even with all eight you should be able to turn the crank with a wrench on the snout very easily. If it starts binding as the rods go in then there is your problem..You can also use the poor mans approach by using Plastiguage which you can buy from your local autoparts store, This will tell you your clearances for all of your bearings..Good Luck hope this helps....
#19
TECH Addict
iTrader: (8)
OK, what I would do is start over, Remove all of the pistons or at least push them back in the hole, (disconnected from the crank) if the crank spins freely then thats a good. Now you are sure you have the rods in the proper place? meaning the chamfered end is towards the crank and the flat end is rod to rod. Start installing one rod at a time and after you torque ONE see if the crank will turn by hand just as free as the crank alone, of course there will be a little resistance due to the rings but even with all eight you should be able to turn the crank with a wrench on the snout very easily. If it starts binding as the rods go in then there is your problem..You can also use the poor mans approach by using Plastiguage which you can buy from your local autoparts store, This will tell you your clearances for all of your bearings..Good Luck hope this helps....
#20
rule of thumb with no head is about 5 ft. lbs per piston installed to turn it over ( v8=40ftlbs). Like stated above, if you can turn it with a ratchet or short breaker bar, its ok.