ok so i bought this motor out of/for a fbody, to but in a bbody and now i have discovered the cam is all wrong for such a heavy car. right now i have this giant retard of a cam in there i will post the card in a minute and i need to swap it out. i dont know anything about cam numbers honestly, thats why im asking you guys to help me out.

95 b-body 4400lbs.
396 lt1
afr 210 (shitty heads)




intake exhaust

duration at .50 271 279
lobe lift .4500 .4260
separation 108. op . cl op . cl
timing events .050 31.5 59.5 71.5 27.5
duration at .020 303 310
gross valve lift .675 .639
valve lash (hot) .020 .024
degree intake lobe to 104


all i really know is i need less duration and a little more seperation to create less overlap. and that is only because i was told that lol idk

hate to make a retarded post but i need to get this done soon. thanks if you can help. let me know what else you need to know??

 

anybody??

 

talk to AI or LE im sure theyll give you a perfect cam for what you want.

 

The LSA is ok, need less duration if you want to street drive it.

Are you gonna spray it?

What is wrong with the heads?

WHat power did the engine make with this setup?

What ET did it run?

Stock Intake?

What static compression does it have?

That cam is not "giant" by any stretch. I Streetdrive a 254/254 @.050 108 LSA solid roller cam, not a problem, Drivers very well.

 

I know these kind of threads are popular, but in all honesty a public forum of this size is one of the last places I would ask for cam spec advice.

Leave it to the pros - call AI, LE, Comp, Cam motions, etc...

 

BTW, AFRs - especially the pre-eliminators - are pretty much "ment" to be ported. Out of the box they are nothing spectacular, and have tiny little optimistically rated ports.

Put them in the hands of a knowledgable porter though and all hell breaks loose .

 

FASTFATBOY i do want to street drive it but i dont want a street car, if that makes sense. i just dont want it to idle at like 1500, and have to hik 5k to take off from a light. and i hear it would...right?
i dont plan to spray for atleast a year.after the FAST XFI and singleplane i will spray,..and obviously a cam swap. (again, I WAS TOLD it was built for a 400 shot...i dont believe that either)
well i call them shitty heads because they were advertised as heavily ported afr 210s but lets not get into what was said and what i bought...he knows what he told me...**** the thread is on here.....
ported LT4 intake
no other numbers
machine shop is cc'ing heads to find my comprssion and all that o so important info i didnt get.



heres the flow numbers

INTAKE
.200 .300 .400 .500 .600
139 193 247 276 280


EXHAUST
.200 .300 .400 .500 .600
113 147 188 198 206


thats like the way they come from afr....almost...



PUCK

ya i know this probably isnt the best bet but i have a few people helping me else where aswell as through PM. im frustrated and wanted to vent and also you never know who might have the perfect cam for me...laying in theyre garage...


thanks yall

 

The gear/converter/tune really is what effects how a car drives. My car leaves a stoplight almost like a stock car.


My car idles at 1200, I want it up there for the oil pressure.

You need at least some cleanup work done to those heads. A good valvejob will probably do wonders for them.


You gonna run race or pumpgas?

 

ok well the car already has 3.73 and i bought a set of 4.10 and have yet to install them. and the car has a 2400 stall, i bought it before i had this motor.

would mine be able to idle at 1200 or lower?? i just cant stand 1500 itll sem like im on the gas... all the time

like could the computer idle the motor with that cam...that low??


and ya, when i tear it apart in a year to go FAST and single plane i was plannig on geting the heads worked (since i got my shitty flow numbers back)


i was gonna do atleast like premium, if i have to mix race gas and premium, thats fine too. id rather not have to drive on the street with straight race gas. mostly just due to cost. thanks again man

 

Wow those flow numbers are way off from what I have from Bret way back when, shitty.

 

Just sending your heads to Lloyd for a port job isnt to expensive. My afr 210s are well over 300cfm from .600 and up. They can be a good head. I think FFB would agree that one of my cams I have laying around would make good power for you and be driveable, since I bought one of them from him lol.

 

ya sped density ur right. i was expeecting 300's for sure... its almost worth a drive to south tx , ya kno son.

and tapout, thats most likely where they will go. my machinist is damn good but u just cant beat lloyd...plus hes in my back yard.
you ever find the other cam card???

 

1st cam or the one I sent you?

 

Dont get hung up on flow numbers, they are an INDICATOR. Doesnt take a 300cfm head ON PAPER to make good power.

 

i know they are an indicator, i mean i still would have bought the motor with the flow numbers it has. it was just a lil mis advertised upon further inspection and that is what gets me



i mean supposedly it was run on a dyno and made 698 and everything but when i took the heads off theres still dye on the piston tops and there is no sign of it having been run.....again....would have been fine if i had known...but no...

 

I showed the cam card for the first one, trying to find the papers on the one I got directly from you. I figured the first one would be more his liking since it was a tad smaller.

 

u ever find it tapout???

 

I cant find it anywhere. Maybe FFB has them still, I dont know. Ive got the grind number so Im gonna contact cam motion for the specs.

 

o ok thanks