96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Like shbox said a lot depends on exactly what rods they are.

Anyone care to explain why they are saying a 6" rod is more likely to need a small base circle cam or is more likely to hit water???

On the rod length argument the only meaningful one is piston weight, a lighter piston is easier on the rod bolts easily the most stressed and failure prone fastener in the engine. All the arguments about rod angles, thrust claims of more power are just bench racing. Things that MIGHT pay off in the highest levels of racing but not in a street car.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Alot of the issue is the rod bolt itself. ARP makes a very short headed bolt for H beam rods. Barely enough to get a socket on. Check into it.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, or what is he smoking? Rod length has no bearing on block clearance. Stroke does, not rod length. This guy much have built about a million SBCs to have all that knowlege stored up, right? D:

There is no reason to not use 6" rods. Even with the reduced cylinder wall loading with 6" rods, my 383" pushed the LT1 cylinder walls around badly. "Grouted" with Hard Block to the bottom of the water pump holes. 1st pass with the hone and you could see right where the Hard Block stopped, dark areas on the thrust side of each cylinder. A lower cylinder pressure combination should not be as bad. About a dozen passes and my breather was damp again.

JasonShort

iTrader: (242)

Ed is completely right....rod length has NOTHING to do with how much clearancing is required along the pan rail.

Another thing to keep in mind here is how much clearance is actually NEEDED. There is no need for anything more than .060" between the rod bolt and the block.

I've run 4.00" stroke cranks in an LT1 without hitting (or even coming close) a water jacket.

I'd say you need a new engine builder. Pay someone ONCE to do it right.

Jason

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

The ONLY thing I can think of that relates to rod length is not all the older 6in rods were setup for strokers. Mine were and clear the cam fine. took minimal clearancing and did not even get close to the jackets

I am going to add anouther ich to the pour next time..some thing to help the "Twins" make more power and seal better

93 black t/a

Well **** i really wish i had gotten on here earlier today before making my purchase. I decided to go with the 4340 forged eagle crank (3.75 stroke), 4340 forged 5.7 eagle rods, with srp dished 16cc pistons. I guess i could try calling tomorrow and seeing if I could switch to a 6 inch rod.

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

You'll be fine with the 5.7s, don't sweat it.

I_Need_Land

iTrader: (12)

so would a 6 inch rod setup be ok for a d1sc setup looking to make in the 600+ range?

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Don't forget, if you change your rods, you have to change your pistons to match.

bombebomb

I run a 6 inch rod, clearance was needed. However, no water.

93 black t/a

So would it be worth switching and changing my order? This motor is gonna be torn down at the end of season anyways.

93 black t/a

Also this car will spend most of the weekend at the track or out cruising, not driven during the week. Its not my daily driver.

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Well the the rule of thumb is to use the longest rod you can, so if you can change your order to a 5.85" or 6.00" rod with pistons to match respectively, I'd do that.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

That is where I was going with my question. Just trying a different approach. Instead of correcting folks and being ignored I figured I would make those who are wrong explain themselves.

97LT1

iTrader: (3)

http://www.compstarcomponents.com/connecting_rods.htm

I used these rods, from the AI compstar/mahle rotating assembly. When my builder put everything together, it did not seem that there was too much clearancing needed.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

I make well over 600hp on them hitting it with juice out of the hole

Vicious95Z28

iTrader: (1)

Hey big daddy, do you happen to have a part # for these bolts?


Ed,

Would partial block fill like you're talking about affect engine temps very much on the street or should this be soley for race engines? Can any Joe fill the block or is it best left to the pro's please feel free to educate me, thanks.

James

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

I don't know. Mine was on the street for a while, but no long trips. Take a customer to lunch, etc. I could not tell that it ran any warmer filled. Not near as much heat is made at the bottom of the cylinders, mostly up top where it isn't filled. You need to be able to level the deck of block on the engine stand. Many guys use an air chisel with a modified cutter (flat plate welded on the end) to vibrate the sides of the block to get the air out of the grout. The guy that did mine says he uses a long rod to stir it around to get the air pockets out. Mine has Hard Block brand grout in it. The guys at Reher & Morrison use a kind of industrial epoxy they came up with several years ago. I have heard good results from both.

Ed

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

For a budget rod, compstar is the way to go. Stay away from eagle. The rod bolt profile is at least .100" taller than the compstar. It is what I am using on my 396 and my builder had zero issues with clearance.

Ed Wright

iTrader: (1)

I agree about the Eagles. I have used Scat cranks and rods for the last six years with zero problems. Machine work has been right on the money. Several engine builders I know use them. Not from China like some others. Made in southern California.