cast crank/hp?
yes when i do the build ill me replacing pistons. im gonna go 30 over. and may use factory rods. i have some so i think i may reuse them to save one cost of the build.
im wanting to go tens with a cam and nitrous, of course wieght reductions and a turbo 350 or 400. stall i was thinking around 4-4500. ill be worried about the ten bolt though.
thats leaving a lil hard for a stocker with 170k on it
im wanting to go tens with a cam and nitrous, of course wieght reductions and a turbo 350 or 400. stall i was thinking around 4-4500. ill be worried about the ten bolt though.
thats leaving a lil hard for a stocker with 170k on it
Just remember this, most all of these newer cast cranks, especially in a performance app. are "shot peen'd" (spelling) for strength, cast cranks are not as hard as forged, there softer, sometimes this is a good thing, most of the time when a crank fails, its do too a badly prepped block (allignment), not ballanced properly (rotateing assembly), or "cap" walk, these factors will limit what RPM/HP is destruction, if its built "right", it'll handle alot more then most would think, IMO, 600 rwhp & 67-6800 shifts ain't **** with good caps/studs, most of us don't even tread in this area 
, if your planeing on 500 rwhp & 64-6500 shifts, go for it & don't sweat it, just make sure the block is alligned properly & the rotaing assembly is spot-on, & of coarse good oil pressure lol.
, if your planeing on 500 rwhp & 64-6500 shifts, go for it & don't sweat it, just make sure the block is alligned properly & the rotaing assembly is spot-on, & of coarse good oil pressure lol. im planning on just about what you said, but only 500rw on spray, and this may be a year from now. im going to gut this car and do full suspension also.
its a hardtop that i paid 1500 bucks for.lol if you go to my link in my sig you can see the car. project barny.lol
its a hardtop that i paid 1500 bucks for.lol if you go to my link in my sig you can see the car. project barny.lol
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Longwood, FL
One of the things that I had to think about is the fact that you will NEVER make enough horsepower. There is always something that you are going to want to add to make the car faster. I haven't seen a stock crank fail like to other posts, but why not spend the extra $ on a forged one since you are already going to be tearing it down that far. You generally won't have the worry in the 9,000 RPM range that you would have with a cast crank. What do you want to do with the car and how fast do you REALLY want to go and be satisfied with it?
One of the things that I had to think about is the fact that you will NEVER make enough horsepower. There is always something that you are going to want to add to make the car faster. I haven't seen a stock crank fail like to other posts, but why not spend the extra $ on a forged one since you are already going to be tearing it down that far. You generally won't have the worry in the 9,000 RPM range that you would have with a cast crank. What do you want to do with the car and how fast do you REALLY want to go and be satisfied with it?
YOU might never make enough horsepower, but some folks are perfectly satisfied with 400whp, 300whp, or even stock. The point is, the stock crank is considered to be extremely strong and, for stock-stroke applications, is more than sufficient in 90% of cases. Your closing statement contradicts your first.
JMHO. I'm on an honesty spree lately, so why stop now?
One of the things that I had to think about is the fact that you will NEVER make enough horsepower. There is always something that you are going to want to add to make the car faster. I haven't seen a stock crank fail like to other posts, but why not spend the extra $ on a forged one since you are already going to be tearing it down that far. You generally won't have the worry in the 9,000 RPM range that you would have with a cast crank. What do you want to do with the car and how fast do you REALLY want to go and be satisfied with it?
only reason to replace the stock crank is if you're going with a different stroke or journals are beyond repair IMO
my car has been through living hell, 180 shot with stock tune, cam swap, tons of racing every week for the past 4-5 years, I've had ALOT of detonation issues with spark blow out on the bottle, running low on oil many times, etc.
you know what I found out when my motor finally gave at 150k miles? I stretched a rod bolt and chewed a bearing, pistons are still in great shape and reuseable, crank had no abnormal wear outside of the journal that the bearing failed on, all rods were still straight except one with failed bolt, etc. many people underestimate the strength of a stock bottom end. to think that the living hell my motor has been through and all I had was a bolt stretch, I wasn't disappointed at all honestly
my car has been through living hell, 180 shot with stock tune, cam swap, tons of racing every week for the past 4-5 years, I've had ALOT of detonation issues with spark blow out on the bottle, running low on oil many times, etc.
you know what I found out when my motor finally gave at 150k miles? I stretched a rod bolt and chewed a bearing, pistons are still in great shape and reuseable, crank had no abnormal wear outside of the journal that the bearing failed on, all rods were still straight except one with failed bolt, etc. many people underestimate the strength of a stock bottom end. to think that the living hell my motor has been through and all I had was a bolt stretch, I wasn't disappointed at all honestly
I strongly disagree.
YOU might never make enough horsepower, but some folks are perfectly satisfied with 400whp, 300whp, or even stock. The point is, the stock crank is considered to be extremely strong and, for stock-stroke applications, is more than sufficient in 90% of cases. Your closing statement contradicts your first.
JMHO. I'm on an honesty spree lately, so why stop now?
YOU might never make enough horsepower, but some folks are perfectly satisfied with 400whp, 300whp, or even stock. The point is, the stock crank is considered to be extremely strong and, for stock-stroke applications, is more than sufficient in 90% of cases. Your closing statement contradicts your first.
JMHO. I'm on an honesty spree lately, so why stop now?
I know that I'll be satisfied with what I'm doing because I can't justify spending the money to support power beyond my goals. being the fastest guy in the world has never been a goal for me, I just want a fun street car.
maybe some later point in life when money is much less of an option I can aspire for higher goals but until then I'm sastified with my goals and money required to get there.
Last edited by myltwon; Mar 2, 2009 at 11:36 AM.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo Teching In
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Longwood, FL
With all of that said, the stock crank will work fine for what you are trying to do. That was just my opinion, I'm the kind of guy who would rather have too much room for horsepower and never need it than have a failure. I agree with everyone in that you shouldn't need one, but if the budget is there, why not. Best of luck in your build.
4040, cast, crank, crankshaft, dfwyahoocom, forged, handle, horsepower, hp, lifeisgood, ls1, lt1, pistons, sbc, stock
