1.6 RR Install Question
1.6 RR Install Question So I just picked up a hotcam kit from a guy on here and its new in the box but it doesn't have any instructions for installing the rockers. Now I'm not the stupidest person (I hope!) but I'm not a hundred percent sure how it sets exactly. Anyone have a good way of describing it or have a really good picture of one installed. Also do you still tighten them down till the slack is gone then turn another three quarter turn? Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks.
So I just picked up a hotcam kit from a guy on here and its new in the box but it doesn't have any instructions for installing the rockers. Now I'm not the stupidest person (I hope!) but I'm not a hundred percent sure how it sets exactly. Anyone have a good way of describing it or have a really good picture of one installed. Also do you still tighten them down till the slack is gone then turn another three quarter turn? Any help is very much appreciated. Thanks.
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The roller rockers are easy to install and adjust.
This is my method of doing it:
Remove all of the old rockers
Bring the #1 piston to TDC
Put rockers on the studs for the following valves
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
For each rocker, with the allen set screw removed, tighten the lock until it just stops. Then add 1/2 turn.
Bring the #6 piston to TDC
Put rockers on the studs for the following valves
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
Same thing, for the remaining rockers, tighten the locks with the set screw removed til it stops, then add 1/2 turn.
Start the car with the valve covers still off.
One by one, go to each rocker, loosen the lock a few turns, the rocker should clank a wobble a little, then tighten it until it stops, use a wrench to add an additional 1/2 turn. Put the set screw in place and seat it fully. Then with a wrench on the lock, tighten it tightly. Repeat that for all of the rockers.
After that your rockers should be perfectly adjusted.
This is my method of doing it:
Remove all of the old rockers
Bring the #1 piston to TDC
Put rockers on the studs for the following valves
Intake: 1, 2, 5, 7
Exhaust: 1, 3, 4, 8
For each rocker, with the allen set screw removed, tighten the lock until it just stops. Then add 1/2 turn.
Bring the #6 piston to TDC
Put rockers on the studs for the following valves
Intake: 3, 4, 6, 8
Exhaust: 2, 5, 6, 7
Same thing, for the remaining rockers, tighten the locks with the set screw removed til it stops, then add 1/2 turn.
Start the car with the valve covers still off.
One by one, go to each rocker, loosen the lock a few turns, the rocker should clank a wobble a little, then tighten it until it stops, use a wrench to add an additional 1/2 turn. Put the set screw in place and seat it fully. Then with a wrench on the lock, tighten it tightly. Repeat that for all of the rockers.
After that your rockers should be perfectly adjusted.
I have all the rockers off with the cam out because I was already swapping springs. I'm just confused because it has the rockers, the nuts and some sort of small stud in the kit. I'm not sure how the rocker kit is assembled on the stud. The factory just has a wedge shaped spacer and the nut tightens down on it. The new rockers don't have that or do I reuse them.
pretty simple. The Rocker goes over the stud. (make sure the flat side is up like i said before). Make sure the piston is TDC or make sure the lifter is on the base of the cam. Screw on the lock and adjust to zero lash. add another 1/2 turn preload. Put the tiny set screw in the poly lock and tighten it down with an allen wrench. hold the lock with a 5/8th wrench to keep it from spinning (prevents accidentaly adding more preload) when you tighten the set screw.
That tiny set screw keeps the poly lock from coming loose when the engine is running. it wedges itself againts the top of the stud when tightened down
this is the only picture i could find of my car.
also i have no idea where "ss.slp.ls1" gets the part where the lock stops. That makes no sense to me because it WILL NOT stop until it eventually bottoms out the lifter plunger. so dont follow his advice. i adjusted valves soo many times and never had the lock stop when i reached zero lash. just make sure there is no "play" in the pushrod. You can also feel the rocker get stiff when zero lash is acheived.
Just follow shoebox's website and you will be fine.
That tiny set screw keeps the poly lock from coming loose when the engine is running. it wedges itself againts the top of the stud when tightened down
this is the only picture i could find of my car.
also i have no idea where "ss.slp.ls1" gets the part where the lock stops. That makes no sense to me because it WILL NOT stop until it eventually bottoms out the lifter plunger. so dont follow his advice. i adjusted valves soo many times and never had the lock stop when i reached zero lash. just make sure there is no "play" in the pushrod. You can also feel the rocker get stiff when zero lash is acheived.
Just follow shoebox's website and you will be fine.
Last edited by Badazz 97 TA; Mar 17, 2009 at 10:32 PM.
pretty simple. The Rocker goes over the stud. (make sure the flat side is up like i said before). Make sure the piston is TDC or make sure the lifter is on the base of the cam. Screw on the lock and adjust to zero lash. add another 1/2 turn preload. Put the tiny set screw in the poly lock and tighten it down with an allen wrench. hold the lock with a 5/8th wrench to keep it from spinning (prevents accidentaly adding more preload) when you tighten the set screw.
That tiny set screw keeps the poly lock from coming loose when the engine is running. it wedges itself againts the top of the stud when tightened down
this is the only picture i could find of my car.
also i have no idea where "ss.slp.ls1" gets the part where the lock stops. That makes no sense to me because it WILL NOT stop until it eventually bottoms out the lifter plunger. so dont follow his advice. i adjusted valves soo many times and never had the lock stop when i reached zero lash. just make sure there is no "play" in the pushrod. You can also feel the rocker get stiff when zero lash is acheived.
Just follow shoebox's website and you will be fine.
That tiny set screw keeps the poly lock from coming loose when the engine is running. it wedges itself againts the top of the stud when tightened down
this is the only picture i could find of my car.
also i have no idea where "ss.slp.ls1" gets the part where the lock stops. That makes no sense to me because it WILL NOT stop until it eventually bottoms out the lifter plunger. so dont follow his advice. i adjusted valves soo many times and never had the lock stop when i reached zero lash. just make sure there is no "play" in the pushrod. You can also feel the rocker get stiff when zero lash is acheived.
Just follow shoebox's website and you will be fine.
. Thanks again. Trending Topics
also i have no idea where "ss.slp.ls1" gets the part where the lock stops. That makes no sense to me because it WILL NOT stop until it eventually bottoms out the lifter plunger. so dont follow his advice. i adjusted valves soo many times and never had the lock stop when i reached zero lash. just make sure there is no "play" in the pushrod. You can also feel the rocker get stiff when zero lash is acheived.
Just follow shoebox's website and you will be fine.
Just follow shoebox's website and you will be fine.
Try and adjust a full roller rocker using the spin the push rod method a couple of times, you will discover that it will be exactly right at, or almost very close to the exact moment that the lock will stop turning by finger tightening. Ask Shoebox, he'll tell you the same thing.
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I've done it 2 ways, both are pretty standard and very old fashioned. Count threads on stock rockers and try match with the new rockers. That should give you a decent base line. After that I back off on each one (individually) while the car is running, and tighten each one at a time until the TApping ceases. This method always works, though absolutely sucked on my Lt1, due mostly to the alternators location and the Lt1's ultra sensitive misfire readings. good luck
