Cap/Rotor Vs. Optical Sensor replacement?
Cap/Rotor Vs. Optical Sensor replacement? Is there any way to differ driving characteristics between a failed cap/rotor or failed optical sensor? My 95 developed a bad mid range misfire accompanied by backfiring, loss of power, a poor idle, and a leaking water pump. After I checked all connections, plugs, and wires, I went out and got all the gaskets, EWP (that I was planning on getting eventually), wiring kit, and cap/rotor kit. I will be doing the replacement this weekend, but now I am having second thoughts of it only being carbon-tracing in the cap.
I think I read somewhere that problems with the cap usually cause driveability issues, and that problems with the sensor usually cause a No-Start condition. Any input is greatly appreciated.
I think I read somewhere that problems with the cap usually cause driveability issues, and that problems with the sensor usually cause a No-Start condition. Any input is greatly appreciated.
Didn't read your post yet, but any time you go through that much effort, it's better to replace the whole unit and sleep easy then to just replace the cap and rotor. You can get a new opti for ~255 bucks from "thepartsladi" on Ebay.
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TECH Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,985
Likes: 112
As noted the cap, rotor AND bearing are wear items. The sensor is electrical and can fail as any "electrical" componet can by itself but more so when exposed to fluids (WP leak). Bearing will wear and cause "wobble" and is not part of a cap/rotor swap.
As suggested replacing the entire unit is advisable...especially since the original issue most likely a result of a leaking WP pissing coolant on/in Opti.
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X3 replace the whole unit, why take that gamble for a few bucks more ur 100% I'd say do wires/plugs at the same time if they aren't newer also u said you checked them but what does that mean age wise they can look just fine.
