LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Estimates on HP difference LE3's vs Ported 21* TFS?

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Old 03-30-2009, 10:12 PM
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Default Estimates on HP difference LE3's vs Ported 21* TFS?

I will be building a 385 running E85, custom cam, probably about 9.2 DCR wanting to keep the RPM's under 6600, since cast Scat 9000 crank (pistons/rods are forged). Anyways, I already have a set of LE3's, but am very interested in the upcoming 21* LT1 heads. Does anyone have any guesses as to how much approximate power I would gain with the 21* heads over the LE3's? Yes I know they aren't out yet, so this is just an estimate thread. Even ported out 23* TFS vs LE3's numbers would be appreciated.

Also, the Scat 9000 crank should be ok assuming coated bearings, quality assembly, etc, right?
Old 03-30-2009, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kgkern01
I will be building a 385 running E85, custom cam, probably about 9.2 DCR wanting to keep the RPM's under 6600, since cast Scat 9000 crank (pistons/rods are forged). Anyways, I already have a set of LE3's, but am very interested in the upcoming 21* LT1 heads. Does anyone have any guesses as to how much approximate power I would gain with the 21* heads over the LE3's? Yes I know they aren't out yet, so this is just an estimate thread. Even ported out 23* TFS vs LE3's numbers would be appreciated.

Also, the Scat 9000 crank should be ok assuming coated bearings, quality assembly, etc, right?
Cannot guess on any power increases since they have not been released yet, and even with flow numbers available you can't tell how they would perform in the real world.

Strength wise the cast scat 9000 crank is only rated to 500flywheel horsepower, which can be passed with the proper H/C setup. Many have claimed success with it, but personally I would use it in a stockish rebuild or mild setup but nothing too "racey".

Assuming everything was assembled and balanced correctly it should be ok, but don't just take the "internally balanced" description for granted - ALL cranks needs to be checked and balanced by a machine shop with your rotating assembly.
Old 03-30-2009, 11:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Puck
Cannot guess on any power increases since they have not been released yet, and even with flow numbers available you can't tell how they would perform in the real world.

Strength wise the cast scat 9000 crank is only rated to 500flywheel horsepower, which can be passed with the proper H/C setup. Many have claimed success with it, but personally I would use it in a stockish rebuild or mild setup but nothing too "racey".

Assuming everything was assembled and balanced correctly it should be ok, but don't just take the "internally balanced" description for granted - ALL cranks needs to be checked and balanced by a machine shop with your rotating assembly.
I know since they haven't been released yet, numbers aren't going to be given... so lets say a comparison of LE3's vs ported 23* TrickFlows?

With the crank, yeah, I've thought about just spending the extra money on a forged just for the insurance, even though it would put the build back a few more months, but what's a few more months for years of not worrying if it will hold up, especially with the high compression I'll be running with E85. Heads are easier to upgrade later than a crank.
Old 03-31-2009, 08:17 AM
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lloyd told me between LE3's and porting a set of darts that i'd see about 10-15 more HP
Old 03-31-2009, 10:18 AM
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The difference you see between LE3s and ported aftermarket castings will depend on the cam and intake used and the combo as a whole.

If the cam is too small then you will not see as large an increase with better heads since the original ones flow more then enough. If your cam is large and your heads outflow the bone stock intake already, you also will not see as large an increase since the heads are already choked by the intake.

The combo as a whole always has to work together to eliminate bottlenecks and not leave the easy power on the table.
Old 03-31-2009, 01:08 PM
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i was assuming all else was the same...
Old 03-31-2009, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by whammer33024
i was assuming all else was the same...
I dont think you understood my post.

If everything else stays the same, it still depends on how radical the setup is to begin with.

Swap LE3 stocker's for ported TFS's on a hotcam build, with everything else staying the same, and you wont get much. Do the same thing with a big solid roller and the increase may then be worthwhile.
Old 03-31-2009, 08:20 PM
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How about say a cam around 23x/24x, .61x/.61x, 108+2 LCA with 9.2 DCR? That's the type of cam I'm leaning towards.
Old 04-01-2009, 04:11 AM
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Originally Posted by kgkern01
I will be building a 385 running E85, custom cam, probably about 9.2 DCR wanting to keep the RPM's under 6600, since cast Scat 9000 crank (pistons/rods are forged). Anyways, I already have a set of LE3's, but am very interested in the upcoming 21* LT1 heads. Does anyone have any guesses as to how much approximate power I would gain with the 21* heads over the LE3's? Yes I know they aren't out yet, so this is just an estimate thread. Even ported out 23* TFS vs LE3's numbers would be appreciated.

Also, the Scat 9000 crank should be ok assuming coated bearings, quality assembly, etc, right?
If you use the lightweight 9000 series crank you can easily turn more rpm than 6600. I've used these cranks in several IMCA Modfied "claimer" builds for the local dirt track racer's, and have never had one break. These engines are living at 7500 rpm and 600-650 HP for years(balancing is a must & don't have Scat balance the rotating assembly as they don't even get them close!!). This last year we "torture tested" one in the 7800-8100 rpm realm and was making 656 HP with it. After a full year of hard racing on it we found the thresh hold that it will live in a modified. The crank looks fine to the naked eye but was flexing hard enough to break a main cap on a 509 SBC 400 block. It is being retired to street duty use for a 58' Chevy Suburban with just a crank polishing. If you kept your rpm to the 7000-7200 rpm redline you will be just fine for years of enjoyment, just make sure to use some ARP main bolts. If you can swing some extra cash on a forged crank obviously it would be stronger and last longer than a cast crank.

Last edited by 1997bird; 04-01-2009 at 04:17 AM.



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