No traction!!!!!!
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
No traction!!!!!! I need your help guys, cars just has springs on it, whats the best suspension mods you can do to hook without going overboard with money, what part did you notice the most different etc, thanks alot guys.
With the way your car is set up now, you are setting yourself up for poor 60' times with the springs and street tires alone (in fact, worse than stock!). LCAs, relo. brackets, and above all, TIRES will help you dip into the sub 2.0 60'. With your aftermarket converter, I wouldn't rule out 1.7s or even 1.6s.
Are you running a stock gearset?
Are you running a stock gearset?
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You really need to provide more information before substantiated recommendations can be made. At the start of the thread you disclosed you have stock suspension and need traction. But now you also have lowering springs and drag radials. What other mods do you have?
What are the symptoms? Does it wheel hop? Does it sit and spin, or does it try to throw the rear to the right? Can you feel it squat prior to breaking traction?
The areas of improvement include:
New shocks
Adjustable lower control arms
LCA relocation brackets
adjustable panhard bar
adjustable torque arm
A quality recommendation cannot be fully justified until you provide more information. Otherwise you are going to just be throwing parts at it until you hit the right combination. But it's your money, so best of luck.
What are the symptoms? Does it wheel hop? Does it sit and spin, or does it try to throw the rear to the right? Can you feel it squat prior to breaking traction?
The areas of improvement include:
New shocks
Adjustable lower control arms
LCA relocation brackets
adjustable panhard bar
adjustable torque arm
A quality recommendation cannot be fully justified until you provide more information. Otherwise you are going to just be throwing parts at it until you hit the right combination. But it's your money, so best of luck.
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you really need to provide more information before substantiated recommendations can be made. At the start of the thread you disclosed you have stock suspension and need traction. But now you also have lowering springs and drag radials. What other mods do you have?
What are the symptoms? Does it wheel hop? Does it sit and spin, or does it try to throw the rear to the right? Can you feel it squat prior to breaking traction?
The areas of improvement include:
New shocks
adjustable lower control arms
lca relocation brackets
adjustable panhard bar
adjustable torque arm
a quality recommendation cannot be fully justified until you provide more information. Otherwise you are going to just be throwing parts at it until you hit the right combination. But it's your money, so best of luck.
What are the symptoms? Does it wheel hop? Does it sit and spin, or does it try to throw the rear to the right? Can you feel it squat prior to breaking traction?
The areas of improvement include:
New shocks
adjustable lower control arms
lca relocation brackets
adjustable panhard bar
adjustable torque arm
a quality recommendation cannot be fully justified until you provide more information. Otherwise you are going to just be throwing parts at it until you hit the right combination. But it's your money, so best of luck.
lol j/k. 
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
yeah sorry i thought u would look in my sig but whatever ill tell you anyway, 93 ported heads, bigger valves, 280xfi comp cam, tb, 2200 stall now which im getting rid of for a 3400 or 3600, tuned, bfg radial, eibach lowering springs, injectors, full exhaust, and i do have 3.73's behind an automatic. The problem is i load the converter then take off and when i go wot after loading the converter it just spins all the to 6,000 rpms even with me heating the tires up, just straight spinning.
1. I would buy good non-adjustable lower control arms. Make sure that they are level using relocation brackets (not pointing up or down).
2. The stock panhard is fine as long as your axle is square (measure from the outer fender to the tire on both sides).
3. Install an air bag in the passenger side spring.
4. Install subframe connectors (weld in work the best).
5. Loosen up the front end and tighten up the rear (adjustable shocks).
2. The stock panhard is fine as long as your axle is square (measure from the outer fender to the tire on both sides).
3. Install an air bag in the passenger side spring.
4. Install subframe connectors (weld in work the best).
5. Loosen up the front end and tighten up the rear (adjustable shocks).
Never, ever, buy non-adjustable when adjustable is available. It is just a waste of money. Far too many times I have read where someone has non-adjustable and finally realized they needed adjustable. Double the expense. Just pay a bit more and get the added flexibility.
GIZMO is correct on measuring the centering left to right. On all the fbodys I have checked, 100% of them were wrong. Perhaps you have the exception.
The airbag is a patch. Do it correctly and be done with it.
IMHO, SFCs are a must. Major difference on my car, probably yours too. I have weld-in tubular 2 points, they are fantastic. I doubt they have much to do with traction, but I reserve the right to be incorrect.
Quality shocks may help. On this point, you need to talk to Sam Strano. When I spoke to him about my car, he told me I did not need them. But YMMV.
GIZMO is correct on measuring the centering left to right. On all the fbodys I have checked, 100% of them were wrong. Perhaps you have the exception.
The airbag is a patch. Do it correctly and be done with it.
IMHO, SFCs are a must. Major difference on my car, probably yours too. I have weld-in tubular 2 points, they are fantastic. I doubt they have much to do with traction, but I reserve the right to be incorrect.
Quality shocks may help. On this point, you need to talk to Sam Strano. When I spoke to him about my car, he told me I did not need them. But YMMV.
Never, ever, buy non-adjustable when adjustable is available. It is just a waste of money. Far too many times I have read where someone has non-adjustable and finally realized they needed adjustable. Double the expense. Just pay a bit more and get the added flexibility.
GIZMO is correct on measuring the centering left to right. On all the fbodys I have checked, 100% of them were wrong. Perhaps you have the exception.
The airbag is a patch. Do it correctly and be done with it.
IMHO, SFCs are a must. Major difference on my car, probably yours too. I have weld-in tubular 2 points, they are fantastic. I doubt they have much to do with traction, but I reserve the right to be incorrect.
Quality shocks may help. On this point, you need to talk to Sam Strano. When I spoke to him about my car, he told me I did not need them. But YMMV.
GIZMO is correct on measuring the centering left to right. On all the fbodys I have checked, 100% of them were wrong. Perhaps you have the exception.
The airbag is a patch. Do it correctly and be done with it.
IMHO, SFCs are a must. Major difference on my car, probably yours too. I have weld-in tubular 2 points, they are fantastic. I doubt they have much to do with traction, but I reserve the right to be incorrect.
Quality shocks may help. On this point, you need to talk to Sam Strano. When I spoke to him about my car, he told me I did not need them. But YMMV.