Electric Water Pump
#2
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I would say if your stock pump is in good working order and it's your "daily driver" keep what you've got until it goes out. If you drive it every so often around town and to the track, I def think it's worth it. It's good for another 10-12 rwh. I would look into the Meziere HD pump with the relay kit if you do go with a EWP. I'm pushing 5k on mine with no issues.
#4
TECH Junkie
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I put one on my car, but not because of horsepower. It is because of the poor layout of the Optispark. When your pump goes out, it is almost always the rear seal. When the rear seal goes out, it douses the Opti with coolant. Then you are replacing the Opti also. The EWP fixes this fatal flaw. The horsepower gains are just a bonus.
#5
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The rear seal on the mechanicals also goes out SLOWELY weeping for weeks and if you have half a brain you will notice it long before it "douses" anything. Where as the electric suddenly and totally fails. So the failure mode argument is pretty weak. Actually downright stupid, I will take a slow building leak failure over sudden and total any day. An electric dies and the engine will get very hot very fast, mechanical gives you a LOT more warning and will almost always still get you home.
IMO leave them to cars looking for every last tenth on the dragstrip.
IMO leave them to cars looking for every last tenth on the dragstrip.
#6
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Good to see your acerbic wit back in the forum, mgr. Since the seal is under 15 psi or so of pressure, I tend to disagree. Weeping under pressure would be called what? A leak?
But that is what the net is about, correct? People presenting opposing views, with or without name calling.
And of course, those that fail to see the warning lights and gauges on their dash are just as liable, right? Versus those that look under the car for fluids, of course.
And I agree that anyone installing an electric should also install the warning LEDs that are available in wiring diagrams all over the net.
But that is what the net is about, correct? People presenting opposing views, with or without name calling.
And of course, those that fail to see the warning lights and gauges on their dash are just as liable, right? Versus those that look under the car for fluids, of course.
And I agree that anyone installing an electric should also install the warning LEDs that are available in wiring diagrams all over the net.
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#8
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I put one on my car, but not because of horsepower. It is because of the poor layout of the Optispark. When your pump goes out, it is almost always the rear seal. When the rear seal goes out, it douses the Opti with coolant. Then you are replacing the Opti also. The EWP fixes this fatal flaw. The horsepower gains are just a bonus.
The rear seal on the mechanicals also goes out SLOWELY weeping for weeks and if you have half a brain you will notice it long before it "douses" anything. Where as the electric suddenly and totally fails. So the failure mode argument is pretty weak. Actually downright stupid, I will take a slow building leak failure over sudden and total any day. An electric dies and the engine will get very hot very fast, mechanical gives you a LOT more warning and will almost always still get you home.
IMO leave them to cars looking for every last tenth on the dragstrip.
IMO leave them to cars looking for every last tenth on the dragstrip.
#9
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like the old saying "if it aint broke then dont fix it" i would leave the stock one in there if its working fine im still running my stock one but i will go to a ewp if the stock ever goes out or when im done modding that will be the last thing on the list BUT your motor isnt stock its a street/strip car i would go ewp here is a write up for you my friend
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_08...ump/index.html
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_08...ump/index.html
#10
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IMO MOST of the optis declared "dead" after a bath were done so by people who fail to comprehend that any distributor acts up if it gets wet inside and for the most part they function again once dried out.
Those who want to attack me please do so based on some technical argument.
It is very common for a mechanical pump to weep just enough to cause it to slip the belt which is felt at low speeds in the power steering if you are vaguely aware of things. I have never seen a mechanical pump catastrophically fail and pump out all the coolant quickly, they leak but get you home. If they leaked bad the low coolant idiot light would still give you warning.
On the flow thing if you want to argue it again TECHNICAL arguments please. I have paid for an article published by SAE and base my flow comments on that. I know actual data is meaningless to most of you though.
Those who want to attack me please do so based on some technical argument.
It is very common for a mechanical pump to weep just enough to cause it to slip the belt which is felt at low speeds in the power steering if you are vaguely aware of things. I have never seen a mechanical pump catastrophically fail and pump out all the coolant quickly, they leak but get you home. If they leaked bad the low coolant idiot light would still give you warning.
On the flow thing if you want to argue it again TECHNICAL arguments please. I have paid for an article published by SAE and base my flow comments on that. I know actual data is meaningless to most of you though.
#11
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Well if you "paid" for your SAE article then by all means post it up or at least post some relevant facts from it to teach us. Otherwise I still stand behind my stmt where I picked apart your previous flow theories of mechanical versus electric. Hope your article gave you some new theories to post this time around.
#13
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Well if you "paid" for your SAE article then by all means post it up or at least post some relevant facts from it to teach us. Otherwise I still stand behind my stmt where I picked apart your previous flow theories of mechanical versus electric. Hope your article gave you some new theories to post this time around.
Far as your "paid" comment what does that mean??? It cost me $12 for that one article, is copywritten and right protected .pdf file.
Other folks have posted the flow chart.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/6566221-post63.html
Evidence of the cruise rpm reduced cooling.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/8817193-post21.html
#14
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I like "capricemgr". He may be kind of a tough cookie but he tells the truth. All the posts I have seen people get riled up about is him expressing his opinion. He does so in a rough manner but what he says is the truth. Just like this whole pump dilemma. Everything he has said is exactly why I have not gone EWP in my T/A. (Plus he has a Roadmaster like my Dad!) LOL
#15
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I like "capricemgr". He may be kind of a tough cookie but he tells the truth. All the posts I have seen people get riled up about is him expressing his opinion. He does so in a rough manner but what he says is the truth. Just like this whole pump dilemma. Everything he has said is exactly why I have not gone EWP in my T/A. (Plus he has a Roadmaster like my Dad!) LOL
#16
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Before anyone missinterperets what I have said.
Electrics DO put more power to the wheels, and they are generally adequate and reliable enough for a street car. Just that the folks who have made this choice often go WAY WAY overboard making rediculous claims and I feel leaving that disinformation spread is bad for the hobby.
Electrics DO put more power to the wheels, and they are generally adequate and reliable enough for a street car. Just that the folks who have made this choice often go WAY WAY overboard making rediculous claims and I feel leaving that disinformation spread is bad for the hobby.
#19
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ironicly mine went out today. it got well over 260 quick. the first thing i did was check the power and ground. then i just wacked it with a hammer and it worked. then it went out again later today. but i seen it before it got hot. so im up in the air at the moment on wich i would rather have.
#20
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Man that sucks your pump went bad. Hopefully mine dosent do the same. Well atleast it would be pretty easy to bolt one right up. How many miles did you put on it? I heard they last quite a while.