Ebay header fitment issue?
Ebay header fitment issue? I installed the LPP Ebay copy headers and they hit on my K-member, which I took care of already, but one primary also hits on the rag joint where the metal tabs are bent up away from the joint slightly as you turn the wheel. Has anyone else had this issue? Will the rag joint eliminator resolve this or will the eliminator hit in the same spot all the way around instead? Can I cut off the little protruding tabs on the original joint until I replace it?
Is that a "bolt-in" deal? Meaning will it just plug right into place of the old one without modification? Will it clear my primary tube? Because I am also having a little rub on the knuckle itself where it plugs into the steering column. Right on the u-joint part that sticks out a little further.
If the knuckle is a little smaller around though it may clear the primary where it sits hopefully. I will find out soon. I would like to be able to drive the car again sometime this month :-p
I installed the LPP Ebay copy headers and they hit on my K-member, which I took care of already, but one primary also hits on the rag joint where the metal tabs are bent up away from the joint slightly as you turn the wheel. Has anyone else had this issue? Will the rag joint eliminator resolve this or will the eliminator hit in the same spot all the way around instead? Can I cut off the little protruding tabs on the original joint until I replace it?
It bolt's right up with the LS1 rack, otherwise you have to knock off one of the knuckles and rotate it 90 degrees and weld it back on for it to work on a LT1 rack.
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i would actually look at the motor mounts. they tend to look split and dry-rotted on the bottom, jacking the motor might not make it noticeable. the ls1 steering shaft is a good way to go. you could also put in a manual steering rack, moves the linkage 1 inch away from the motor. i believe you need to use a tubular k-member with it though. good luck with it though 
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks everyone...I think I will need some luck. I guess in the case of China replicas, it depends on what mood Long Duk Dong is in when welding as to how far off all the angles are going to be...I mean 1/2 degree is nothing at the primary, but 2 feet down the pipe when the angle is now off like 5 degrees, it makes a difference. Anyway, I will probably do the rag joint eliminator and tubular K-member next...in the meantime I either can't drive the car or I have to flatten the primary a little bit. Which honestly shouldn't make too much of a difference as it is where the primary is already stepped up and the pipes are overkill for the flow of the engine anyway, plus it is in a flat/straight area of the pipe there. And in my case where 400 hp is my ceiling, the headers will more than flow enough to cover that.
