LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Oil Pumps

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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 01:36 AM
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Hey I was wondering what kind of oil pump to get for a lt1. Its being tore down and I am replacing the oil pump as insurance for later. Mine was working fine but has close to 157k on it. Should I get a high flow one or stay with a stock one. I know if you go high flow you have to change the drive shaft out which is no problem because I am buying an arp one. Should I just get on from napa or get a replacement from gm?
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 07:36 AM
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Oil pumps are the best lubed part in the engine. Long as they don't suck up debris they wear very little.

I would look at a new relief spring and the melling driveshaft and reuse what you have.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 07:40 AM
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ugh...with a 157k on it, id change it! Get a melling M155 pump with the GM white spring and the Melling drive shaft. DO NOT get a high volume pump as it will suck the pan dry.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Schweet97Z
ugh...with a 157k on it, id change it! Get a melling M155 pump with the GM white spring and the Melling drive shaft. DO NOT get a high volume pump as it will suck the pan dry.
first sentence is good advise...last is flat out false. A HV oil pump will not suck a pan dry.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 11:33 AM
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Correct,, if you do go with a HV pump you will want a different oil pan.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 01:24 PM
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X2 the Melling HV will suck the Pan dry. I went with a Melling HP Pump and had no issues. I got the Melling Drive Shaft aswell.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by schweet97z
get a melling m155 pump with the gm white spring and the melling drive shaft.
+1...
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 02:46 PM
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Or, if you're leary about the weaker casting with the M155, go with the Melling Select 10554. Comes with the hardened driveshaft, too.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 04:16 PM
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I think they fixed that problem.. that was with the older M155 ones. Someone posted about that a while back..
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 04:45 PM
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Does anyone have any DATA to suggest these pumps are any upgrade over stock or that the stock pump wears any meaninful amount by 150K miles???

IMO long as the stock pump has not seen debris a $3 relief spring and $8 melling shaft are all the oiling system work you need.

My opinions differ drastically from most of the forum though. I like to use good parts where they make a meaningful performance/reliability difference and reuse stock stuff wherever it works well. A lot of guys around here like to blindly replace things JUST because they are stock. Many times they manage to find things that are weaker than stock too.

Another thig I find funny is how often welded pump pickup crack off yet you almost never hear of a STOCK pressed one falling out. I stress STOCK because many home pressed pickups get messed up and then when they fall out the "pressed" fit is blamed rather than the improper pressing.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by the_merv
I think they fixed that problem.. that was with the older M155 ones. Someone posted about that a while back..
The pumps were still coming with the warning labels last I knew. Melling changed the pumps at GMs request. Did GM request they change them back or did Melling just change them? If they did change them again, there has got to be lots of old stock out there with the weaker castings.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 05:36 PM
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I don't remember the specifics, I just remember someone talking about that the newer ones were made better.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by ******
first sentence is good advise...last is flat out false. A HV oil pump will not suck a pan dry.
What? A HV pump WILL suck a pan dry, it has been seen dozens of times. Advice like this will get you a blown engine.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bombebomb
What? A HV pump WILL suck a pan dry, it has been seen dozens of times. Advice like this will get you a blown engine.
not bashing your post, but have YOU seen personal evidence of this? reason i ask is i have been lurking all around the net for a long time and a good bit of these claims have been proven otherwise from other failing/mismatched components. personally i have not seen either way with my own eyes, but considering my engine man has personally reasured me that it will not, i guess i will be the guinea pig.

once again, not starting a flame war or calling you out on this, i would just like to see some concrete evidence of this problem. this is argued with builders quite often and i would like to see an answer for sure
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 09:48 PM
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HV is unnecessary unless the bearing clearances are LOOSE.

I think though that a lot of the "sucked the pan dry" is actually cavitation. A friend had big problems with that within the last month on his high rpm gen 1 build, had to pull the engine and put in a differnt pump. He had been told the HV pump would be a problem but he "knew" more and put a HV pump in anyway.

Why do you think they made the switch to gerotor pumps? Less prone to cavitate and smoother pressure.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:06 PM
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while i agree with you, i want to add. cavitation is a large problem, but from my research the BIGGEST problem is oil drainback. of the people that i have read about their problems, 80% did no work to the motor to help oil drainback faster. either way, my tolerances are correct and tight, just want to help lay this discussion to rest.

btw to the others... another problem i have read about with the "sucked pan dry" ordeal is the removal of the windage tray which is the cause of bearing failure in this situation?... pump or lack of windage tray? you decide!
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:17 PM
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There are lots of things done wrong. Ever see the mods guys had to make to the pre-Eliminator AFRs to get oil to dran away from the valve seals, I am talking cutting channels to get the oil out of there so it wouldn't get sucked through the seals.

I bet guys put HV pumps close to the pan too making the cavitation thing worse.

On the windage tray thing, I can think of one "reputable" builder who leaves out windage trays and advocates HV pumps and oil better suited to the rearend than the sump. Problem is people can't seperate advertising from quality, they think they are the same thing.
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:18 PM
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well im just gettin a stock one
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Old Apr 15, 2009 | 10:41 PM
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I pulled the Windage Tray out of my current Engine.. I know it's a different setup..but jut something to throw out there. My reasoning was for Oil Drainback.

I also drilled out the Lifter Trays, another one of them Mods for the LS Engines.
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Old Apr 16, 2009 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
Does anyone have any DATA to suggest these pumps are any upgrade over stock or that the stock pump wears any meaninful amount by 150K miles???

IMO long as the stock pump has not seen debris a $3 relief spring and $8 melling shaft are all the oiling system work you need.

My opinions differ drastically from most of the forum though. I like to use good parts where they make a meaningful performance/reliability difference and reuse stock stuff wherever it works well. A lot of guys around here like to blindly replace things JUST because they are stock. Many times they manage to find things that are weaker than stock too.

Another thig I find funny is how often welded pump pickup crack off yet you almost never hear of a STOCK pressed one falling out. I stress STOCK because many home pressed pickups get messed up and then when they fall out the "pressed" fit is blamed rather than the improper pressing.

Its just the simple fact that if somthing has 150k on it and you have the money to change it, why not? Just because something works still doesn't mean it working properly, and doesn't mean it will be working later on down the road. I put one in mine for reassurance. Any smart person would as well if they have the time, money, and engine out....
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